///M5

Really bummed the Dutch don't have "Holland" on their jerseys this year. Wanted to buy a whole set for the family.

You get ZERO surround from rear fill unless of course you are listening to movies or have a very odd 5.1 encoded audio collection. They sound like utter horseshit and give you sensitivity where you don't need it. MLV needs to cover the whole area and be sealed. If that matt does that why remove it? There is NOTHING special about MLV other than outside of lead it is about as dense as any sheet product. Stopping sound transmission is done with mass, so if it is really heavy you are golden. No you are not. Q&L are complete opposites, putting them together in a word is dumb. And there is NEVER a Q and multiple mids &/or Supertweets. Not even close. As for the front/rear you may not have as much output firing forward, but with eq can end up with a better result. Luckily the bass portion of an install is BY FAR the easy portion.

Speaking of, is the PPI 900.4 normally only $169?? So fucking cheap

http://www.nvx.com/car-amplifiers/mvpa4.html Just because...I want one.

Does it occur when you turn the gain down?

I was paying about $125 a month for a 2000 viper and 250 for a crewmax tundra. 100 200 100 on each. my m5 was super cheap

All the irritation in the mid then?

Did you check insurance? I only ask because I've got a colleague that was quoted more for an SRT4 Neon than a Viper.

In the truck now for over 30 with the brakes/suspension. About to be 31.5 or so with the stereo.

Crazy though that you can get a new sub 6 second 60 car new for $24 if you don't add any options. Less than I paid for a near 100k mi Escalade.

I know you get better pricing than MSRP, but normally the cheaper the car the less the discount no?

When I price it with full leather it comes to $30k. In 3 years that'll be $15k...which hurts.

Yeah, right.

I like the BMW dual arm opening perhaps one of those used and then integrate the Griffin vol knob right like they do. Try to keep the rest stock looking.

Fucking thing squeaks and rattles like hell as well.

Oh well, need a sub and amp to fit in it instead anyways.

Forgot the whole damn thing is CAN.

Griffin PowerMate knob is cool. Have to experiment with Driveline to see how it'll fit in the front end.

Ok, all stock shit has to go. Damnit, want power first!

As recommended it would now be good to use some tones to try to isolate the annoyance. May be able to just eq it out. Curious how the "gap" bothers you or not. 1.6 to 3.15 is only one octave so while it is an important one it really depends on you. Also check if you lower the frequency the driver plays if the SSS's goes away.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1118&CategoryID=26 Looks like a winner. Means I am paying $30 to keep the amps for the little connector...but for the time being until i see if the connector is available on its own.

Curious how much better I can make the factory sub sound.

The backwards is temporary. Want to do this install in pieces so I don't need 2 weekends and a mess.

And now I want to do this backwards. Before I was looking at keeping the stock head unit and replacing the amplifier and speakers. As a temporary install I'd like to keep the stock amp and speakers and replace the headunit Can't remember where I found the details on it though...and really don't want to just measure. I am 99.9% sure the processing was done in the headunit and Seth threw up the wiring so I suppose I can just start poking at pins. A pluggable adapter with pigtails would be sweet.

Paying more for my carpc than I did on my home pc. Can get a 4250 i5 with a 5000 series video for only $140 more than an ultra wimpy machine. Figure if I yank it out of the car it'll become my main home pc as it is vesa mountable and TEENY. 4x4x2"