///M5

Depends on the lens. Some of them are junk, some are nearly equal to their brand equivalent, and some are in between. What length do you need? I am looking at their 16-300 and 18-270. Looking for an all in one for the wife to use. I am going to call B&H tomorrow and get their take on those. Haven't used the 16-300, but own the 18-270. I NEVER shoot it. Focus is slow, can't take multiple shots in a row and have them stay in focus, nothing is sharp, and generally just not a pleasing lens. Nothing in the superzoom realm is though. If you need to cover that range you need the equivalent of a 17-55 and the 70-200. Not sure on Sony/Minolta but around those ranges. No way any one lens is worth owning like that. If you do buy one, buy it used. Price drop shows exactly what most think of them.

Depends on the lens. Some of them are junk, some are nearly equal to their brand equivalent, and some are in between. What length do you need?

Correct Don't need cubes for the boner. Smaller displacement is sometimes a serious advantage in a Turbo car. Depends on overall power level you want to get to.

45% margin on the slur so there is room. For negotiation

And it could be WAY closer than the Pio measurement. I'd double check it pronto. If it can't do that (which is by far the easiest measurement to automate) it should send a message. Start from scratch, really will help.

I agree good sir. It's gotz de hot tuboz. And pathetic power output. Don't understand how the S barely does what the NA AMG motors did before. Whole car is a let down IMO.

I think it is an abomination. They ruined the 968 rear end and the front has sedan written all over it. Even the interior is subpar for a car that is north of $60k.

Biggest concern is installation. Drivers matter hardly at all in comparison. You are also being very confused by marketing. Power handling has NOTHING to do with output. No matter what you choose more output will be directly proportional to less frequency response. Everything is a trade off. Slapping the XXX set in your installation as it is now will have WAY LESS of an effect as fixing the install. Your drivers may not be good, but there is nothing special about the set you are looking at either. As for adding an 8" driver with a comp set, that isn't logical at all either. If you have an 8" midbass then the mid on the comp set should be WAY smaller. A 3 way set with an 8, 6.5, and a tweet is down right a serious waste of money.

I see more Flir than Fluke in Temp applications throughout business, but that isn't really where I spend that much time anymore. Been nearly 5 years, but industrial shit normally doesn't change so drastically.

I know you want more than just temperature, but for measuring high temp any of the 30:1 or higher work really well. http://www.thermoworks.com/products/ir/

So glad I am not from Texas

Optimal space is WAY better than shoehorning better or more drivers in ALWAYS. My boat has a 15" Xcon and it wangs.

Save me some

Anyone edit a TYP file for a GPS here? MN published the snowmobile trails on their website, my parents retired an old Garmin GPS, so I loaded them up. Fucking skinny white lines which are near invisible in the dark, will be completely washed out in the sun. Want them fat and dark. The web is not super helpful in this...

Nespresso

It was the Big Ugly from day one. Fitting name as it is fucking ugly.

miniDSP's for the Big Ugly just arrived

Any suggestions? Was giving Swift a demo today, for a song pretty commonly played on radio, and he was able to point out something I've never heard in the song prior. 37 minutes later and all my previous settings were changed just to chase down this note in the song. Oh boy, I can see where this is going. That being said, I'm not sure if me listening to a familiar song will help much if I don't know what to listen for. I listen to jazz 80% of the time and it is exactly what I'd use. Pretty sure it won't help you. I don't demo for anyone other than myself either as I really don't give a shit if someone likes my car. For people that ask to hear it I let them provide music they like. I tune with what I listen to as well. The real reality is no one gives a shit about a good recording or good sounding music if they don't like it. Also means if the person you demo to listen to shit or garbage it flat out won't matter. There is another regrettable human trait. Whatever is louder is normally chosen as sounding better. Classic trick in HiFi shops to get you to buy the more expensive speaker. Obviously louder can't be all distorted and shitty, but you get the drift.

Don't do passive -- miniDSP works on an Apple IIRC

I am a huge R y G fan. Awesome guitarists. That being said they have other tracks that do it for me more, but I carry all of their albums in my car.

<- has 4 miniDSP's and would ALWAYS recommend active IF the user is capable of tuning. miniDSP has the disadvantage of needing a pc which is a bummer though.

Back calculate the T/A and see if it is even in the ballpark. If not, scrap the T/A settings it used altogether. It also didn't do any phasing, which to me is a crying shame. I've never had a system where all 4 drivers in the front stage were phased the same. That can make a HUGE difference. Another thing you can try is to save those settings and start over. Once you train your ear this will definitely be the better approach.

Something you are familiar with that is recorded WELL is better than something you are not. I also prefer music with "space" as the absence of sound is sometimes more informative than the sound itself. Live recordings can also be insightful, but there are so many that are badly recorded or produced it is hard. I am also a big fan of natural instruments as the more something is electronically manipulated the less tonality you intrinsically understand.

Defective I should say

And my 10" touchscreen is das broke ftmfl