///M5

Awesome deal Ryan. Curious what all parts it has/ been added so I can vicariously lice through you.

Awesome deal Ryan. Curious what all parts it has/ been added so I can vicariously lice through you.

Sweet. Congrats btw.

I personally would try to only buy what you have easy access to. ie, not having to pull out a laptop as that stops progress

So it is a GM?

Exactly. Gain block is ideal. Processing at your fingertips, not on the amp.

ONLY use 1 crossover. So yes full. Outside of an amp with a digital processor I would NEVER use an amp for running active. If that was my only choice I'd build passives and call it a day. Make sure if you go the headunit route though that you get one with the capability to bandpass the mid.

Four wheeler is pretty much buckled up. Have the lights just taped in place for now, but the rest is setup for me. Last bit will be a wheel/tire swap when they come in later this week and a clean up on the brake pads as they seem to drag more than I'd expect. I imagine it is dirt and nonsense in the caliper but will find out.

So anyone that has ATV'd. My suspension seems completely setup wrong...so I changed it. I assume that 10% free sage, 30% race sag and tossing the rebound & compression right in the middle ought to be a good baseline for the first ride no? Machine tends to push according to forums....but with no cure/reaction other than to buy parts, lol. I'd assume either stiffen rear pre-load or soften front would both pull push out if that is the problem...but again, I've never ridden a wheeler. Almost have mine all modified up and ready to rip.

And you may need to cantilever them way out to get them to sound right. 3 way active is an exercise in lots of hours of setup if you haven't done it before. 2 way is even hard. You NEED a DSP of some sort. An amp with dials does not work

Ryan is right. I referenced time but not the possibility of things being non optimized no matter what. I wouldn't be surprised if even after months of tuning that the 2 way is better. In particular if you aren't willing to change the aiming of the drivers as part of your tuning .

Agree, but fuck are they proud of it price wise.

Some car audio subs are better home than home subs and some home subs excel in car. A sub is a sub. Only question is what exactly you mean by home theater. If it is truly for special effects and such you will need a LARGE box as it is regularly logical to closer to 10Hz than to 20Hz. Would never tune that low for music. Obviously then picking a box and driver that fits your needs is paramount. No way, no how will you need 4k watts to power 1 sub in a home though.

And then earsex IF you put in the time.

Hate to say this, but get ready for it to sound worse. Learning curve on active 3 way is not for the slight of heart. Will take LOTS of time.

Sorry guys. Wish I had some insight to help

No worries. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

Drove the Cayenne Turbo around SoCal this week. While I love the interior and how it drives in general, I no longer want one. WAY too laggy from a dig. 60-100 is insane, but the bottom end blows. My truck will STOMP one monstrously. Not anywhere near close. Sad that I would rather have a Jeep than a P-car, but it is what it is.

Good answer

Sunburn in Illinois in April. Nice. Not sure what that amp will do. I'd split it, but easy enough to try both ways.

Happy Easter!

Awesome. You rock!! Thank you!

My clubbing days are long gone though, lol