///M5

Really??? That was a setup for the meme he posted. Braaaaaaaaaaaaap

Attention deficit, oh, shiny!

Unaffected by caffeine, can fall asleep on it... Check Has more hobbies than time...... Check Is either incredibly successful at their attempts or crash and burn in a beautiful fireball.... Check Way above average IQ, motivation, and effort trifecta.... Check Oh look something else shiny, how does it work, can I make it better, is someone already making better than I can make..... Double check ADD fosho It is actually ADOSD

Getting separated from the wife

That is my least favorite thing to do ever. I'm so anal I never feel I get it all but adhd enough to distracted in the process about 5x.

Was quoting such insignificant digits I felt compelled to double check.

I measure one thing over and over. Veneer calipers and a magnifying glass

I had two cars with 8 tracks

So yes, the .180" ones should work. Thanks Seth. Not sure why they are all smaller here.

I just want the connectors, the wire is in place. Trying to avoid extra splices since any and all connections on my sled I expect to fail. https://www.google.com/search?q=bullet+connectors&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb#q=bullet+connectors&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=fflb&tbm=shop I tried every size I've seen and they are all too small. I will also add I haven't measured and looked for the right size.* *lowers head in shame Female ones vary from not so used at 4.2mm to well used at 4.5mm. The head of the bullet is 4.56mm and the shaft 4.6mm with some variance. Gage R&R on a better surface with my mic is about +/- .02mm

*goes downstairs to take a shit, make a coffee and measure a bullet connector

I learned that the hardway when I was first into car stereo's in 1988 or 89. Doh!

If non-insul crimps are available, simply crimp, solder, then heat shrink. I have taken to using non-insul butt connectors/solder/shrink for all inline repair. If all you can get are insul crimps, just use a small sharp knife to remove the insul. I like this "overkill" method. Do I assume you tin, crimp and then just solder over the whole crimped area?

I just want the connectors, the wire is in place. Trying to avoid extra splices since any and all connections on my sled I expect to fail. https://www.google.com/search?q=bullet+connectors&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb#q=bullet+connectors&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=fflb&tbm=shop I tried every size I've seen and they are all too small. I will also add I haven't measured and looked for the right size.* *lowers head in shame

The reason I wan the butt connector is because the sled is all AC....except, I have added an EGT/Tach/H20 temp gauge that runs on DC, a GPS that requires DC, and have a phone charging port. Means I need a rectifier, capacitor and fuse box. AC regulators go out somewhat often when you wallop on sleds. Have an off for my head light for that purpose and now fuses on the DC. LED tail light will take full voltage so I can limp home without one and not cause damage. Plus I can't own anything that isn't fused right.

And while fixing, I am cleaning.

I don't want any failure in the field and when something takes a shit I want to know exactly where and what it is. Last year pissed me off BAD. Having the motor out 3x over the only fucking thing I paid someone to do SUCKED. In particular since I spent at least 50 hours in a garage that was below -10F.

There is a spot on the motor tray that looks like the wire loom around the coolant hose has worn into the aluminum. If not its location is very dubious.

Yep, everything is getting loomed.

Ok, wrong shot. Lol. YAY, dirty as hell garage.

It wouldn't take us long. As always it takes me way longer to decide what I need for parts than to put them on. The longest being starting. I should have my fuel shut off switch and oil line by Wednesday which has been the delay. Didn't have enough line which nets a non-install as the motoor has to come out to install the line. Wiring used to look like this:

And yes, I can prove differently, but still

Crimping is one of THE best connections. I don't know if you just want the connectors or them wired. I've never seen one bare, only molded with leads, such as. . . http://www.delcity.net/store/Molded-Connectors-without-a-Loop/p_8593 I know. Just have always felt better about solder. Obviously conditions on a sled with temp, vibe, and lots of abrupt motion aren't easy on anything. Soldering into a solid connector with strain relief and plugging just feels the most secure to me. I have crimps all of the sled. It came that way. Hell the damn thing is riveted together, lol. I've worked on controls sent up in spacecraft, military controls, and every seismic standard in the book and every project used crimped connections. Granted we used spec'd crimpers, terminals, and our crimpers were calibrated every three weeks, but you get the point. I started out with I know. ...just don't believe. Sort of like I feel a weld is better than glue. Has to be right?

For instance, this rectifier has exactly the connectors I need on it and their female counterpart. Sort of mimics many/most of the accessories on the sled so unless I want to hack the harness even more.... I am not unwilling to hack more if it cleans up the wiring however. Spent 2 hours on it today though cleaning pretty much everything else up.