///M5

You listed equipment. Without understanding your needs, likes, desires, no one can help you. Thought I made that clear already. Your choices are arbitrary as we have no reference in why you picked them... And definitely no need for any rears. Mine are unhooked in the Escalade and rear seat passengers are fine.

My workbench is TOO SMALL!

Noted, thank you =]Picked up a router with a standard bit and a roundover bit today for $25 MDF and cheap bits can be a dangerous combination. Be careful.

And yeah, I know Here is one side:

Speaking of exhaust my AR long tube + cat replacement headers just showed up 20 minutes ago.

I've been speaking my mind, lol. Big cam needs heads. Big carb needs complete package: fuel pump, heads, intake, exhaust etc.

Good subject matter?New boss? J It was my old boss going away party. And I didn't have the ISO high enough. Grain>nothing in focus. I couldn't get the settings right in for auto I SO and I got greedy. Had to shoot way too much at 1.2. It was so low light... Bounce flashConsidering the time has already passed, I would try to salvage what is left with sharpening, adjusting the brightness, or changing them to b&w. J He knows, he also knows I was just being a dick

The carb is wrong because everything else is. I won't comment on his hatred of Holley. Honestly, I woukd get some casting numbers off the heads geton the Mustang forums and get more information. You just need to know what you have first. There's so much knowledge out there and engines are simple machines. Yep, that motor can swallow the carb IF the rest is built to match

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum. Have you done head work? Even with a big bump stick that carb is too big. And btw, you ARE looking for efficiency. Power is proportional to efficiency. I have not done head work. My understanding is a bigger carb will net in poorer fuel economy only. The efficiency I think I am looking for is max cylinder pressure. It will also create a bog at take off from idle.

And please challenge everything I say. I am in the learning stage myself. That all being said, thanks for reminding me I need to start reading again. Going to bring the Banish book with me to Asia. Just ordered Corky Bell's book as well.

Do you have a good taco recipe? J I don't really use recipes, but make a mean taco.

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum. Have you done head work? Even with a big bump stick that carb is too big. And btw, you ARE looking for efficiency. Power is proportional to efficiency.

Stock cam? Does it fall instantly, or gradually, or at high rpm? It has a very lumpy cam. The fall is instant when you try to get into it. Seriously happens at ANY RPM?? ie, try idle to floor 2000 to floor 3000 to floor 4000 to floor I would expect at some point it doesn't hesitate. Understanding where it is in relation to your high and low speed circuits will help the trouble shooting.

This is very possible J. Ideally the Holley would have a 3/8 fuel line and electric fuel pump. I replaced the factory 5/16 before I realized this. I have a fuel gauge installed out the carburetor, which reads correctly at 7 lbs. The car runs great once it is through the hesitation though, and screams when you punch it on the highway!! I have the correct electric fuel pump, and may have to replace the line again to 3/8. Mechanical or electrical pump? An electric pump will only lean out at RPM as the demands for fuel are higher then. Mechanical I have no idea what the delivery curve looks like.

Not really an at rpm, just when I gun it. Collates with the vacuum dropping from 8-12 to 1 at best on the gauge. Then the vacuum Rockets back up and the car takes off. Yes the holley has a retarded amount adjustment. The Excelerator pump works off the mechanical linkage, so I would think it would fill the void, once set correctly. I only adjust one thing and then test drive. I bumped up the squirter nozzle, so more fuel sooner. This should be correct based on the power to weight ratio of the car, and tall axle gear ratio. The vacuum still dropped the same but, was a lot less hesitation. Then I tighten down the carburetor more to the manifold, as I suspected I had over tightened, and got a severe vacuum leak. Then I pulled the carburetor, and cleaned the mounting surfaces, and checked the gasket. My torque wrench does not go low enough, so just tightened less than before. Also added washers, don't recall why hadn't added them before. Think I had a slight vacuum leak that I solved. Vacuum still drops to zero when I punch it parked in the garage. And was too late for a test drive, so no test under load yet. So recap, fixed a vacuum leak, and added more fuel sooner via mechanical. Didn't get a test drive yet. If I can't get it in the morning, I will use my phone a friend to call my step brother who is a mechanic. It will behave differently under load. Normally this will exaggerate what you see, but I've seen the opposite on my 2 strokes too.

Good subject matter?New boss? J It was my old boss going away party. And I didn't have the ISO high enough. Grain>nothing in focus. I couldn't get the settings right in for auto I SO and I got greedy. Had to shoot way too much at 1.2. It was so low light... Bounce flash

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump.Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs.I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot. Race cars optimize the spark flame for a particular high range of RPMs. On the street you need it to vary since the velocity of the piston changes with RPM and the flame front needs to be balanced to match it. ie, the speed of the "explosion" is the same. To make it "time" the same in the piston stroke you need to have it happen earlier the faster the piston is moving. Their is an ideal point which is somewhat dangerous in case any conditions change, but at that point you maximize the pressure in the cylinder. Higher pressure = more torque.

You added nothing to the pm even after direction. Share something you like arbitrary brands won't help. As for the rears that'd be a HUGE waste of money

New Boss?

Mine is pussy and cola. Isn't that the same thing?

Although at this point I think I can pull the whole motor in 45min.

I like to do some steady pulls at WOT early on in a cold day to make sure the EGT's stay in check. Don't really think that is a good mechanism, but I set those conservative as well and say fuck it with needle changes all the time. Takes about an hour to pull the carbs and put them back on. Some dudes do them in the sled, but I guarantee I'll drop some brass something or other and have to pull the motor to get it back.

I am jetted safe. ie, I can ride at 20F one day and then at -30F the next without blowing up. Pretty much means it runs rich as shit when its warm and gets absolute horsehit gas mileage. (read <7mpg, less than 4 in really a lot of correspondingly wet snow. I've also seen nearly 14mpg on but as cold days.

Curious at what rpm you are experiencing the issue to J. My problem now is that 1) I've never adjusted anything beyond the choke and idle on a carb, and 2) I've read Banish's book on tuning once (almost 2 years ago now, lol) and think of the myriad of ways you can adjust whatever with fuel injection and more importantly what you can log. Of course this makes me want the equivalent even more on my sled than my car. A 2 stroke can gain a ton of pull from having optimized temperature injector cycles based on rpm, load, & temperature (air/engine). For some reason the OE's are having trouble keeping them alive under hard use though in particular on sleds. Emissions and lubrication are generally what is blamed, but if everything was optimized AND measured with a better controller I don't think that would be the case.

What would you consider that price point?Keep in mind I am a huge fan of Cutco, and Wustoff (spelling??) in the past. I won't be buying them for a few years unless something odd changes. I still hate that buying is cheaper than renting down here, J Wustof. I dated a girl whose mom was the head of sales at the time, i believe she was promoted since then but she gave me a 17cm knife... LOVE that knife.That is a garlic knife. Nearly useless size...With a little skill you can use a 28-30cm knife for the same tasks. For what i, and her husband (a gourmet chef) use that size knife for, it's more that enough of a knife to cut what we (usually) make. Seems pretty presumptuous to assume we are carving turkeys or slicing a ham with that tool. Thats just the knife we feel most comfortable using for most of our projects. Show me a gourmet chef that uses a 17cm knife as his primary knife and I'll show you a really shitty chef. It is a super inefficient size. Yes I have one. Global in fact. Nice blade, but I use it for cutting open celophane and other packaging that I don't want to dull a knife that actually has some use in the kitchen. I will use something that long for coring strawberries and such if that is my ONLY task, but otherwise I'll reach for a real knife.