///M5

Whats wrong with it? It's 95, it sucks!

Need CLEARCOAT! What do you mean?

Needs wax then TIRES. Ordered up 305 35 24 Nitto 420s yesterday.

If that fucked my tranny I am confused, but perhaps I started to fuck it before I took the truck in for the fluid change.

By my definition that is flushing out the tranny. Meaning removing the old tranny fluid that is in there. If by flush you meant some chemical additive well then I suck at car terms.

Never, and I mean never flush a tranny. Never, and I mean never, have Aamco built a trans... Particularly one behind a performance engine. Find a good local GM performance shop and ask who does their transmission work. Doh. Now of course I am curious as to why what was done to the trans was wrong. Overstroking of valves in varnish caked bores can create binding in the valve bodies. Dirt, varnish, and contaminants that are happily nestling in nooks and crannies can be cooked and dislodged. In some cases dry bores can result causing burrs and ridges that bind valves and check balls. You may get lucky and run a nice cleaner (like the BG chemicals) that can dissolve these solids and break shit free, but I don't want to flood you with false hopes. A good builder could get into the valve body and fix things for you. Perhaps my terminology sucks as I am a hack. Is there some different pressure that causes the valves to overstroke just by unplugging the lines from the cooler? ie, in my case the steps were: Pan dropped Filter changed Re-assembled Filled Line pulled off coming out of the cooler and placed into an oil catching receptacle Car started, left in park, ran until the transmission fluid looked clean Car shut off Lines back on Tranny filled to operating level Car driven, level checked hot and adjusted

From this thread: http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sponsor-projects-builds-customers-trucks-209/2012-sierra-rcsb-5-3-build-thread-%40-new-era-performance-505827/page9/ So you don't have to click

Found these parts/transmissions: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/6l80e_performance_transmissions_torque_converters_parts_6l90e.htm Excerpt of interest: STOCK PLUS + 2 #6L80MK Pterodactyl #2. This complete 6L80E rebuild kit is a perfect upgrade to street/strip vehicle. This 6l80E kit contains everything you will need to rebuild your transmission to a much improved version of Stock unit. We Started by using Raybestos High energy clutch kit that contains stock thickness Raybestos High energy clutches. The clutches are stock thickness and double sided. This kit uses Raybestos 6L80E #RCPS-189 Raybestos 6L80 Stage-1 Red friction Module Kit and #STMGM-06K 6L80 Kolene steel clutch module listed above. This rebuild kit also includes the Sonnax Zip kit. The ZIP kit addresses many of the issues inherent with this unit, and it also includes the larger boost valve that allows you to achieve 300 psi on your 6l80E unit. This larger 6L80E boost valve is necessary to keep your 3-5-R and 4-5-6 Clutch packs living in this unit. We made sure we addressed the issues with the input shaft and hub, replacing it with our billet one. This eliminates all the hub dampener failures we have seen lately. We also include the Sonnax 4-5-6 piston special piston and backing plate. This new machined piston and backing plate helps with the coning that wants to occur with the 4-5-6 clutch circuit by giving you a much wider apply base. The pump slide spring is also included for high rpm situations and keeps the pressure stable throughout the RPM range. This combo kit also includes a 6L80E Torrington thrust bearing kit, as well as a bushing kit for the unit. New high flow wide mouth 6L80E filter and High Performance 6L80E overhaul kit that includes all the gaskets and seals needed to rebuild your 6L80E transmission. Cost $1999.00 ********* Assembled it seems to be a $5700 transmission. $2k in parts. Leaves me a lot of space on a builder. Don't quite understand buying that one built when for a G you can have the 1200hp version.

If that only happens when I had issues popping out I wouldn't have heard it. Normal driving it didn't....unless it is really masked by the S/C whine. Making a run from a dig, 1st gear 5500rpm's or so is where it jumped out. At that rpm in only 2 runs I almost missed my truck hgetting to the rev limiter, pretty instantaneous in gear and then BAM not. Backfired, the second time.

Never, and I mean never flush a tranny. Never, and I mean never, have Aamco built a trans... Particularly one behind a performance engine. Find a good local GM performance shop and ask who does their transmission work. Doh. Now of course I am curious as to why what was done to the trans was wrong.

Lots and lots and lots of REALLY clean and dedicated (ie only for the car) microfiber towels are your friend. I use about 30 when I wash/detail my rig.

And as with ANY paint correction. Start with super non-aggressive stuff and only get more aggressive if the first doesn't do enough. No reason to make a daily driver perfect either as it is going to get fucked driving it and the more you take off the less you can correct later.

Truck first though.

That's why I'll be paying close attention to your results... Since you've never used a machine before, I would not use your new black vehicle as your first attempt. You WILL fuck up and that's not the one to fuck up on. Don't you have a Saturn or something? Hell, go to a local junkyard and buy some panels for cheap to practice on. If there is no correction needed on the paint I'd do it all by hand as well. A very non-aggressive finish polish will go a long way in removing little stuff.

Currently the truck is at the shop that changed the tranny fluid...having the pan pulled and filter checked out.

6L80e transmission fluid was changed. Pan dropped, new Napa filter & gasket, and then filled. Car started with the hoses off on the cooler until it ran clean. Shut off, hoses replaced and the transmission filled. Instantly post change doing a WOT run the truck would get to 5500rpm or so and then pop out of gear. Engine then pegged redline, stopped itself, I yank foot off gas and the truck shifts into 2nd. My guess/hope is the filter is either a piece of shit, was knocked loose or ... If not, curious how bad it will be. Also wondering how you find a transmission rebuild shop. I don't really want to send mine someplace. I've found upgraded clutch packs etc to put in, but figure Kennedy/Aamco and the like are not the places to have do it.

The PC is basically a more expensive Griot from what I read. The Menzerna came as the most recommended from everything I read. Sure I spent an extra $50, but if it works easier than I am happy. Supposedly much easier to apply and not swirl. I have a black truck, so that is rather important.

My buddy has one

Stupid Flex is $389. Otherwise I'd have one. The Griot is the budget winner. I just bought Menzerna compound...actually landed today. Excited to try it out on the Flex.

Because I SUCK at not working

did you even read ANY of the thread?? The xcon can rock movies REALLY well

MK, these are the ones I kept: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AOS8K8/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1 I have no concerns. The Weathertech fit like shit in comparison and were really wimpy feeling. The quality of this set of Husky is WAY above the WT stuff. Can't comment on other lines, but I would definitely buy these again. The rear seat one fits not as well, but neither were great for that.

weathertech SUCk compared to huskySean said Husky. I've been in a do opposite of what Sean says streak *goes to buy weathertech* I bought both for my truck, returned the weathertech

Buffeting is such a common problem in large cabin trucks, though. I think the worst I have ever heard was a friend of mine's Dodge Dakota king cab (circa 2007-09). The buffeting made it feel like someone was taking a sledge hammer to your skull. With the rear windows down going down the freeway it was retarded... It almost made me sick to my stomach. That is different, this is a booming. ie, all windows closed and it still occurs. I've done a shit ton of work helping different places try to measure and understand buffeting to make it modelable, but booming is something that sneaks up on you once ou start lightweighting.