///M5

Seen three so far that can't figure out how to read the seat signs. Wtf

Seen three so far that can't figure out how to read the seat signs. Wtf

Easy to tell who is mn and flying out and who is flying home.

Easy to tell who is mn and flying out and who is flying home.

Sitting on a plane that is being boarded. Amazing the number of asshats that are obviously going home to lax.

I also like things you can flip without taking it in the shorts.

The TRD SC was what I meant, but my fingers moved faster than my brain did. The tune comes with the SC, as well as the CAI. From my research with other Toyota drivers who have the SC, they have not had tranny issues with it, but they have had to do the fuel system and sparks to get the full potential. It's just spitballing at this point, it may happen, it may not. J Had a SUPER conservative tune which is expected with warranty

Anyone have/heard a portable speaker they like? Probably used exclusively on the beach.

Thanks dude, I am at my current boost limit unless I add meth injection or build the bottom end.

If you see a cheap turbo kit for a truck it is a remote turbo (like the STS) and those are completely pointless and have so many negatives it is absurd. If you want easy to bolt on boost a centrifugal supercharger will kill any remote mount turbo and be just as easy to install.

Also crazy to drive it stock any longer if that is what you are going to do long term.

J for $7k you can have a SC now and keep your warranty. A truck that heavy a turbo really won't be as much fun on the street as the SC either. I'll warn you, my thoughts were to start out like that as well. .....then I added: Headers $1800 More boost with a bigger pulley $200, but it required injectors then $1000 Custom Tune and tuning software $1200 Transmission took a shit because of it $7k Wheels/Tires $3k Suspension $1.5k Brakes $5k Stereo/computer etc $1000 Which then magically adds to $30k on top of the truck. It ain't cheap to make a square heavy box fast.

That and turbo and a heavy car will be unresponsive albeit more potential in the 1/4

Sequioa was 30-40% more for the same result

If course I have probably close to 30k in mods on mine once the tranny is done

And then the rest needs an upgrade. There is a reason I RAN from the sequoia

In another few years it will be turbo'd. I won't out the turbo on until the warranty is almost up, as it cuts it short. There is no sway bar up front or in the rear stock, so anyhing would help. While lowering will help, I like the ride hight it has at the moment. J turbo and Toyota = $15k

2k rpms sitting still, wonder what it'll spin once it's hooked up!

TRD tune and headers would not void it. I don't see the value in doing either though on your truck.

He doesn't. but you don't want a Toyota one anyways. Aftermarket.Should that affect my warranty? This may be a moot point anyways. J Not at all. Good to know guys. What about straight pipes and headers? I know a lift can as it changes the angle of the drivetrain. J An aftermarket sway bar could potentially remove the warranty on the sway bar bushings, that's it. Pipes & headers REQUIRE a tune which "can" void your drivetrain warranty, but you can always swap back when you have a problem and will normally be covered. Of course they can pull the rips to the PCM in which case they could void it, but it is pretty unlikely it would go that far.

At 80+ when switching lanes or harder cornering the ass end sways a bit. Seems as if a rear sway bar would improve the handeling. J It already has one, no? Stiffening it alone won't be enough, you'll need to do the fronts and then you might as well add better springs. Lowering is the biggest thing you can do to help.

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. 4L80e?That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards. Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road. Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem. Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.Even if it is the gap, would it help towing? Not the gap, just unecessary. To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing. That does not make you fast.Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything. Go big or go home or just keep driving your mommy mobile under 4K RPM... I also can't put $4k into a transmission every year. I also stumbled across a 4L80e I think it only had 50-60k it was only $275.00 was going to send the link when I sent the other but i could not pull the listing back up..Also these are in north TN around the Nashville area so I am sure freight would be a good chunk added to that. I need it BUILT either way. Core price is reasonable at $275, but the rebuild is $5k and then the conversion is another $1-2 + a torque converter.

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. 4L80e?That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards. Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road. Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem. Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.Even if it is the gap, would it help towing? Not the gap, just unecessary. To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing. That does not make you fast.Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything. Go big or go home or just keep driving your mommy mobile under 4K RPM... I also can't put $4k into a transmission every year.

Curious as to why you need one? I've never seen a seat bar fail