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Everything posted by ///M5
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Interesting. Amazon app on the Roku fills in for the Fire Stick. If you have FireTV different story though as that will voice contrl the complete TV. I added one in the bedroom to avoid the "where the fuck is the remote" problems.
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You will need a COMPLETELY different box for sealed or ported. WAY different size. I would first figure out the biggest box you can fit and then decide what to put in it.
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Bar has one analog and 2 digital audio ins. Can't say I get the Roku, Fire, & Apple as they are redundant. Roku >> the other 2.
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Mine too. 6 HDMI's though.
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No, all HDMI into TV and one Digital audio out into the bar. This is the problem from above. IMO a receiver makes a terrible video source though anyways...but if your tv doesn't have it you are stuck
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I have a big arse soundbar and a sub. Does what you need if the above limits are okay. Can come demo it if you like.
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Can't most of those plug into the TV? If so, that would simplify things. Means your TV needs to be on the audio source you want for those but would expect that you don't stream music off the Roku/Apple/PS4/Fire without being connected? Simple boxes don't have many inputs...
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What all plugs in?
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All new SSA DM150.2 amplifier
///M5 replied to Aaron Clinton's topic in Sound Solutions Audio (SSA®)
Wish I had a car that needed some tunes! Love the heatsink!! -
T-line for 2 6.5's or 1 12 in a hatchback
///M5 replied to BEEFKING69's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Not afraid of mud here either -
T-line for 2 6.5's or 1 12 in a hatchback
///M5 replied to BEEFKING69's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Shipping can cost as much as labor. Where are you. ...no dunes here, but plenty of trails. -
T-line for 2 6.5's or 1 12 in a hatchback
///M5 replied to BEEFKING69's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
If you don't like your 12 you will be SEVERELY underwhelmed with a pair of 6.5's. 90% of the T-line discussion on car audio forums are not Tlines, but slot ported boxes. If you can't operate Mathcad, don't have Martin King's worksheets, then expect that your trial and error will be a failure and take MANY iterations to get it to somewhat work. Add to that you are now using drivers that have way less capability so even if you do it perfectly you will have a significantly worse response in every aspect and it is an exercise in stupidity. I understand though that there is a ton of misinformation on the web and it isn't your stupidity, but the sites that you have found positive responses towards T-lines in a car. Don't take it personally, but take everything you have read with a grain of salt and dig through the nonsense. In general instead of trying to be different you should be honest with your goals and build the system YOU want based on your goals and not other peoples imagination. This will save you a lot of time, money and yield way better results. -
T-line for 2 6.5's or 1 12 in a hatchback
///M5 replied to BEEFKING69's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
They aren't in a T-line though like the OP is asking about... -
And in the same volume you can do better for less money. It's a choice of course, but not for the better.
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They will sound worse and cost more. There will be plenty of acoustic deficiencies and no benefits.
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T-line for 2 6.5's or 1 12 in a hatchback
///M5 replied to BEEFKING69's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
You've read some confused information. -
More drivers, more cost, less output in either domain you are chasing. It'll be different, but that doesn't make it better. Used to be people built 4th order BP to be different, now the gullible public found different and thought better and there are a ton of terrible installs with happy uneducated owners floating around. If you want to you surely can, but realize that the only portion of it that has any value is the novelty which is super dubious at best.
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Thank you.
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2hr flight vs 17hr, I have to take the 2. He is only 10, not that patient.
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Sweet. Will peak for tickets. They OPENED?? Amusingly we got snow today.
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I'd like to take a 2 day snowboard vacation with my 10 year old. Any recommendations for places to go? I will slap him in a lesson for at least half the first day and ride with him the rest.
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Peaks and dips are easy. Just record using any mic a white noise signal using audacity and perform an fft. Make sure you use a ton of averages....at least 100. Ignore the slope as your mic will screw that up. Try a placement near your ear on both sides while you are in the car. Btw, that will give you WAY more useful info than REW. I didn't want to offer that though before you stated your goals.* *caveat being I haven't used audacity to do an FFT and am not sure it does averaging...according to a 2 sec search on wikipedia it claims to
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We might get our first this weekend. Can't say I want to come home yet. Took my parents to a Michelin started chef experience last night in Paris. Afterwards I took them to a jazz and dance club. Latest either has been out in more than 10 years. Dad walked around 15mi with me in 2 different days. Not bad for an 82yr old
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I don't own REW but have equipment to do any of the measurements it can. I have severe doubts it will do anything useful in a car, but perhaps if you described what your goals are and how you will use the info once you get it we can either help with REW or an alternative
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but amazingly on topic?