///M5

Spend 20 minutes in WinISD and you'll have an answer...or at least better questions. Personally I wouldn't want one.

12 second exploder? ROFL. Up your budget to $25k then NOT including labor. Obviously you can do it for less if it only has to live through a single pass down the strip, but that would be an even bigger waste. I haven't been to the strip in my truck, but minimally am in the low 12's and probably even high 11's. Just parts cost: $13k in power adders, $7k in transmission, $5k in brakes, $2k in suspension and I started out with a V8 rig that needed no engine swap. If I were building a non-FI truck and wanted 12's I'd have a good $6-7k in the short block alone. Costs on the DOHC is even higher. Best part is with your search at the end the value of the truck would be the same as it is today. If you have money to burn, go for it. And yes, I expect that my truck is worth $25,000 less than I have in to it. I knew that going in and don't give a shit.

In a real driver you won't notice the difference between metal and non. The LPG is seriously great off axis. Why are you only looking at SB stuff? I realize there is a misapplied boner on diyma, but they aren't anything special. I've been completely underwhelmed by all of their stuff. Sure it is priced interesting, but the little savings rarely makes up for the harmonic distortion or other general lack of clarity in their response. You can ignore the on axis response on plots completely. You will NEVER sit on axis. A great response on axis will therefore be completely pointless. The only thing you care about is the off. Having the 30 & 60 curves be similar would be helpful though as your left and right tweeters will be at severely different angles. I would also ignore a single point on the curve as that is easily adjusted with eq, but instead focus on the overall response. The less eq tapering you need to do the better. Large format in this case may not buy you much. Fundamentally a 3/4" tweeter will do what you need better than a 1" tweeter, but it will do this by sacrificing the bottom end. Conveniently you can choose a mid to fill in that bottom end, but having some flexibility is nice. I'd pick FR over flexibility though in this particular installation.

Damnit! I wanted you to spearhead the el cheapo way so I could copy!!

/\ that looks like crap.

And it could have been cut and assembled by someone who gets paid $3/hr and doesn't give a shit. No way, no how would I ever do that.

Nothing will go as planned either. Paying someone to forge the way for you and develop the knowledge is a huge mistake. HUGE. You'll probably end up with close to $10k in labor. $120/hr adds up quick!

Paying $60 to ship something tells you where the value is, lol. If you can't see the box first hand I would NEVER buy it. Exclusion being a few custom builders I know that I'd trust implicitly, but those will be more than $200.

If you are paying someone, I'd expect it to be way closer to $10k. Really a dumb idea. Like backpack dumb. Just sell what you have and buy a v8 car. It will be WAY, WAY, WAY cheaper.

ROFL, look at shipping... I'd NEVER order a box.

Why $200 for a pre-fab? That seems absolutely absurd.

Aidan is home sick. Puketastic

Till it fuckin breaks Every car I've seen has a backup. My Benz key wouldn't take a day's worth of snowmobiling. Battery got mulched at -20F lol. I had to take the key apart to unlock it and then start it with the key. Frustrating, but easily could have left the access for it.

That tweeter has no balls.... Better question is how high can you hear? Easy test. Most of us that are more mature struggle to hear 15k at the end of the day...

I fucking hate having to use keys. Didn't care until I had a car that made it so I didn't have to.

LOL, guess what I want now that I have passive keyless entry? Obviously, keyless go... Well...

12" deep then? Your math doesn't work, measuring wrong. Mock it up!! (4+24 ≠ 17+12) Assuming your wrong measurements are right and that it is 12” wide, your space works out like (3/4 mdf): (10-1.5) * (12-1.5) * (12-1.5) = 937 cu in (17-1.5) * (34-1.5) * (12-1.5) = 5290 cu in 4 * 5 * 12 = 240 cu in 937 + 5290 – 240 = 5987 cu in / 1728 = 3.4 cu ft Taking the Xcon 12” Optimal Pre-designed enclosure from here: http://products.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/xcon.html The port is 2.875” x 13” x 36.75”. Assuming we can use one wall for the port then it takes up: (2.875+.75) * 13 * 36.75 = 1732 cu in or ≈ 1 cuft This means you are short about .2cuft for the optimal enclosure and would need to rework those numbers, but generically a 12” will fit….but you should really mock up and double check your numbers as it is close!

Wait, what? WWE referee J?

You can measure the outside of the port and the depth. Just takes a measuring tape, lol

/\ what Ryan said

Doesn't the new one automatically include it? Need to peak at the harness. If you had to cut wires you need to replace them, if it is a plug then you don't.

The Nitto 420s are single-handedly the LOUDEST tire I've ever owned. Complete ridiculous. I can't imagine what they would be like in a truck that wasn't as deadened as the Escalade. Traction wise I love them though. To put it in perspective, my Blizzaks are quieter. Not by a little bit either, but by an order of magnitude.

That description doesn't tell us anything. We need wood thickness, port size & length minimally. Really hard to tell what that is doing to your subs. The box looks like it could be crap, but that doesn't mean it is the source of your troubles.

Details on the current box would be very helpful. Pre-made enclosures are usually NOT a good solution.

Build looks like you are going to beat the shit out of that car. And OMG, SMD made a tool to do what a $5 DMM can do? I am amazed at the absurdness of their offerings. Some shady bastards!