///M5

Real preliminary. I am pretty sure these all fit into the company lease parameters so they'd be free to me. CTS VSport Chevy SS with LSA conversion non-current CTS-V BMW M3 I gave up on the 2 door options due to the kids. The Hellcat leases like shit and is ugly as fuck on the inside. In an ideal world the new CTS-V would fit, but I don't think I can give myself that kind of raise. Going to try, but figure driving the Vsport and the rest of the list together will put it in perspective. Pretty sure after the drive the old CTS-V will be out due to its miniscule size, but we'll see.

Yikes. Atm I am down to 3 GM options and one BMW. Test drive may change that

I work mine out every time I piss

BMW's $100k option will cost me $300. wtf.

the lack of a "view new posts" button will hurt though

Refreshing to see new though!

I'm blind

This is growing on me http://forum.streetcommodores.com.au/attachment.php?s=58ed5daca1dffa3a2aeff753d3a3dbfb&attachmentid=170718&d=1392719766

It's a very well designed amp and gets amazing reviews. It's pricepoint new was affordable, now it is impressively cheap. I have seen them go for $800, unmolested. would look sexy in my office

Which one? I've done their analog servo hydraulic class and their 793 software class. I know two assholrs that live in mn

Yes, remember. The box is more important than the drivers so start by optimizing that. Of course optimization of a box requires knowing what drivers you will use.

Okay, not so amusing as I'm sure I'd end up spending money on audio again.

Amusingly I don't want to hear that.

70w tubes. FUCK! Sexy too!!

The hub affords you that. It is linked to the home network. I can modify all the devices and their control from my pc. The remote just affords a simple traditional package. For someone who is so into simplifying the complex, your opposition to such a device shocks me. I am forced to assume you haven't really used one. Harmony is no where near as nice as it gets, but for the average user who can't afford Crestron devices and Crestron programmers, they are really great alternatives. I've been on boats that have Crestron integration and it is really awesome. But I don't have a few grand for the setup, and my home doesn't have the automation that would make such a device a worthwhile investment... Too busy buying tubes ... I understand how they work. I've bought a few of them always to return them. My search for a real remote caused me to realize it wasn't the remote, but the stupid shit the remote was trying to control that was the problem. I also evaluated the Crestron which is over priced garbage. I have something that is minuscule in price in comparison and 100x the utility. Simple alarm panel that is able to support DUAL directional information so it knows the state of everything and can respond. Means any one keystroke on any remote can do anything you want it to. ie, one button in my living room can turn down the lights, turn on the stereo, the tv, the receiver, the cable box and shut off the stereo. No programmable remote can deal with that logic very well and when it does you are limited like crazy in comparison. El cheapo remotes that are local to an environment and programmed appropriately to do only what is necessary is so much simpler and more convenient. Easily done with a $300 automation panel, a cheap remote repeater, and $10 remotes too. I spent a bit more since I went with an HAI panel, but that also serves as my alarm hub and was cheaper than any "professional" solution and thousands of times better. Flexibility is critical for automation. You are looking at a smart remote for automation purposes. While they are useful for one room installations, they are damned useless in multi-room. On my main floor I have 3 living rooms a dining room and a kitchen. Automatiing that with anything logitech is either prohibitively expensive or somewhat limited. Usually both. The only logitech device I swear by is the squeezebox but that is because it is SUPER easy to automate with ANY other software.

The hub affords you that. It is linked to the home network. I can modify all the devices and their control from my pc. The remote just affords a simple traditional package. For someone who is so into simplifying the complex, your opposition to such a device shocks me. I am forced to assume you haven't really used one. Harmony is no where near as nice as it gets, but for the average user who can't afford Crestron devices and Crestron programmers, they are really great alternatives. I've been on boats that have Crestron integration and it is really awesome. But I don't have a few grand for the setup, and my home doesn't have the automation that would make such a device a worthwhile investment... Too busy buying tubes ... I understand how they work. I've bought a few of them always to return them. My search for a real remote caused me to realize it wasn't the remote, but the stupid shit the remote was trying to control that was the problem. I also evaluated the Crestron which is over priced garbage. I have something that is minuscule in price in comparison and 100x the utility. Simple alarm panel that is able to support DUAL directional information so it knows the state of everything and can respond. Means any one keystroke on any remote can do anything you want it to. ie, one button in my living room can turn down the lights, turn on the stereo, the tv, the receiver, the cable box and shut off the stereo. No programmable remote can deal with that logic very well and when it does you are limited like crazy in comparison. El cheapo remotes that are local to an environment and programmed appropriately to do only what is necessary is so much simpler and more convenient. Easily done with a $300 automation panel, a cheap remote repeater, and $10 remotes too. I spent a bit more since I went with an HAI panel, but that also serves as my alarm hub and was cheaper than any "professional" solution and thousands of times better. Flexibility is critical for automation. You are looking at a smart remote for automation purposes. While they are useful for one room installations, they are damned useless in multi-room. On my main floor I have 3 living rooms a dining room and a kitchen. Automatiing that with anything logitech is either prohibitively expensive or somewhat limited. Usually both. The only logitech device I swear by is the squeezebox but that is because it is SUPER easy to automate with ANY other software.

Speaking of ls. I sat in an SS sedan today and drove an srt8 charger. Lease estimate on the hellxat I should get by tomorrow lol

First step is to fix the overall size of the box and then re-listen. Bit of a catch 22 though as you won't know what you need for port length until your volume is right since they are related. No matter a 4" is too small so you need to go bigger. Pretty easy to model and find out how big

There were two of the same topic Aaron so I moved one here and locked it.

Wires wrong doesn't matter, just flips the phase of the tweeter. That being said, I have NEVER had an installation where it didn't sound BETTER to have at least one of the drivers have their phase swapped by changing the +/- to it. Balance, Fader, EQ, Headunit crossover? One abstract possibility is that your headunit source is louder on the passenger channel. Play a pure tone in stereo and measure the voltage out of both RCA's. Your gain setting procedure can be fine as long as you hear distortion and that you ALWAYS listen for distortion every time you turn the volume up. You can't just set the gain/volume knob one time as EVERY piece of music is different meaning you need to listen and adjust all the time.

And then get to carry complete control in my pocket or at any computer in the house.

I'd never bother to spend the money on the remote....but I've spent it on the brain a dumb remote speaks to.

The way you throw wattage terms around proves you aren't sure how to set things up. You can easily put a 1000w amp on a 20w speaker WHEN you set the gain and use the volume knob right. As for blowing a speaker there are really only two ways they fail. Thermally you overheat them and they come apart due to this or you exceed their mechanical capability. Both are directly proportional to the volume knob/gain setting. As for why it is only the right, we need some more details on your setup. Including all settings in your head unit and amp. I always run my right side hotter than my left....

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That were $15 at least. About the most I will ever pay for a remote. I like them dumb and talking to a smart brain instead of the other way around.