///M5

Better advice is however to keep your truck as a beater and buy a fun/fast car. Daily driving a truck is an exercise in stupidity. Making a pig fly is even worse. And yes, I surely do both. Horribly stupid. Fit a niche I needed at the time. In 10 months I am going to retire the Escalade to towing/winter duty and it will fill that niche MUCH better than the DD one.

As for the other associated mods. I'd personally look for a 4.8 truck and save on the front end if you were doing a turbo. More displacement just equals a larger turbo so it doesn't get choked which then puts you in the ridiculous hp range for efficiency on the turbo. A 4.8 will comfortable spin 700+hp which is enough to start wrecking everything else on the truck if you drive like an asshole. If you do one on a 6l80 truck TUNE the tranny WITHOUT removing the torque management. A 4l80 will be quicker though and is a better platform for the build. $1k and bombproof. Makes the power hogging Allison the oil burners use look ridonkulous.

If you want to go fast and cheap, look for a used Procharger, Vortech or TVS 1900/2300 kit from a Silverado. The other option is to either have a manifold welded or buy the KB log and a reasonable turbo/bo valve and call it a day.

KB Racing. Not cast, but you don't need cast for the amount of time you will have it. You could also argue that it isn't the best way to make power in a truck diesel or gas. Having to spin is not effective for towing... Amusing as well with the low rpm limits of trucks. Here is a perspective for you on torque/hp and real life. Fundamentally you do not size a turbo for the engine, but size the turbo for the power you want to make. Then you need to make sure your engine can spin said turbo. The holsets that come on the Cummins are so small that a wee little Eclipse motor can swallow a pair of them. Puts into perspective how pitiful modern truck diesel engines are. Of course, if you just want to slowly move a ton of shit there is a different conclusion you can draw. Btw, plenty of guys running 10 second 1/4mi in their 5.3 or even 4.8 trucks with a KB racing turbo and LESS than the $8500 adder you'd need to make a gas truck a turbo from the factory. Stupidly us Americans and the Euro's have it backwards. Stop and go traffic is hybrid effieciency land and big huge stretches of NO acceleration is diesel efficiency land. Low rpm acceleration all roots/twin screw and 1/4mi turbo/centrifugal. Somehow though that isn't realized by the manufacturers.

Stock includes tuned ones btw

You Can kill any stock diesel for $3k. Easy

If you don't tow heavy or drive 30k mi/yr they are a horrible expense for no reason. Nothing on them is cheap

Ok. You've piqued my interest

Way less than the up charge if you are truly comparing Apple's to Apple's. If I build an ss sedan I will have about $2500-$3000 into making more torque than any diesel will throw down for similar dough and the diesel will still be slow and boring to drive in comparison

The only one local though is at a dealer I don't want to visit right now.

Makes me think I could live with only 400hp perhaps. Which opens the doors for this: http://www.autonationcadillacwestpalmbeach.com/VehicleDetails/new-2016-Cadillac-CTS_Sedan-3.6L_Twin_Turbo_V6_RWD_Vsport-West_Palm_Beach-FL/2664312803 Which is super cheap. Not sure how they are taking $8k off that car...

The MyLink is super easy to use in the Chevy, but FUCK it's ugly. Add to that the complete disregard for acoustic treatments in that car and I am not sure I can handle it. Rides amazingly stiff as well. On the flip side, the power delivery is sweet. Surprised at how peppy it is stock with the Auto. With a manual it could be really fun and super fun with an LSA.

Drove an SS Sedan and 2012 CTS-V today. The V was completely different than my first drive a couple years ago. The seats are TERRIBLE. Traction was hard to come by. First time I drove one that wasn't the case, but it was 90F outside, today below freezing. Getting that car in an automatic is stupid as it goes sideways every time you stand on it unless you find a way to not make it downshift.

On top of that they are slow and ride like shit. Torque is useless in a chassis that can only use it for towing.

...can easily be had with FI.

Found it http://images1.memedroid.com/images/UPLOADED10/501fef61c71a5.jpeg

...I'd like to avoid doing it twice. Like always

That was the plan, just figured if I am under the car...

Considering there is one on each side I would assume so. Didn't check. I shortened the links in them about 15000 mi ago to help lower the truck. Ride difference with no air to air is insane. Of course at being nearly 2" lower I am now riding in the really progressive part of my spring and at 6" lower than stock it hits the bump stops which i haven't cut out yet either.

Any other point of failure on the auto-rides? My Escalade - 2010 with mag and autolevel shocks no longer fill. Shocks and compressor were new in October. Fuse is fine. Called a bitched to Amazon, have a new compressor sitting here with no core needed....but before I go swap it out I thought I should make sure I am not overlooking anything. Obviously I can't hear it like normal when it starts up. Some odd algorithm where it bleeds a little air and kicks on everytime you start it. Think that is potentially how I killed it when I was trouble shooting my stereo/pc.

Chainsaw is on the list too, btw. I have a POS Poulan Wild Thang. It won't die though so rationalizing an upgrade is tough. Especially when I don't use it more than once a year now that my back ain't young.

You keep posting shit that I want.

Stop spending my money Seth!

Pushing it on space. Which face is the sub going on?

There are other AWD cars that could fit, but I really want a RWD manual.