///M5

You are clipping. I would bet money on it. 13v should only dim if you have shirty aftermarket headlight bulbs

I rarely eat the same meal in a month but find myself at pizzeria Lola and I made homemade as last night

More seriously a low f-stop prime that is in the range you need.

Nearly anything with and L and the word Canon written on it.

Look at your amp. The speaker terminals will be labelled + and - if you switch them you change the phase at every frequency 180deg. I have no idea what you have so only you can answer that....or share everything you have and how it is set. STOP reading, STOP typing and go figure out what exactly you have and how it is setup.

Weird, wtf on the formatting. Sorry for that, forum is acting weird on me....

Making threads is pointless until you do. Your settings are jacked. It will NEVER sound good until you let us help you. Your lack of effort in doing what is asked so we can help is detracting from the desire to help. We want to, but at this point it seems you don’t want help?

I've got a new audio disease that is stealing $$. In the past year I've only bought 3 guitar amplifiers, lol. Looking for two more guitars too, although one is for the boys.

LOL, you found them. It was the list you linked here. I just searched for <$400 and BAM they were the top reviewed one. When I realized they were local and I could demo, I figured it was a no brainer.

Obviously if the two mids sound completely different on their own then you need to fix that problem first. For us to help further in that case we need ALL your settings.

Phase as nothing to do with output of a single driver. It also has nothing to do with clarity on a single driver. Key word there is single... In other words, shut off ALL of your other speakers and listen only to one midrange and then the other. Then see if they are different. Unplug the sub/tweeters as well. ONLY one driver. This is always one of the first steps in any tuning. Once you have optimized/equalized how things sound then play with swapping the phase and normal phase listening to only the mids, then to only the tweeters doing the same test, then to the tweeters and mids together. Try every variation. Your ears will know what to do. If you have time alignment do that first. Figure out what you like. Write it down. Then redo the test at both a little less and a little more time alignment. Keep iterating until you are sure. And yes that is hours of work, err fun

Um, not exactly. That is just what you can change. Or you could say you are right if both speakers are exactly at the same point in space. Once you have separation it changes everything. Speed of sound is constant but the number of waves in a space is dependent on frequency. Each up+down of the sine wave contains 360 deg of phase. Obviously with distance the point at which the sine wave for each frequency will arrive at your ear at a different time. Regrettably this means for all frequencies it is different. If you are 180deg out of phase with the exact same signal you have a sum of zero. Zero is not something you want to hear. This means you need to play around with the phase of all your speakers to see how nicely they sum. I have NEVER had a car where both tweeters and both mids sounded best all wired "in" phase. Your goal is to try to find the right combination of phase that sounds the best.

Then you have the either buy and sell or buy and use option IMO. Too cheap to say no too.

Fatigue? Fuck that, I am not listening to "bright" shit. Flat or mid-bass biased only.

I am having Alclair make mine. My ear plugs I had Starkey make. If you were looking at doing a custom mold around an already existing IEM then I would have Starkey or similar do it. As I said on the phone, the first set of Starkey plugs I was given were too hard for me to sleep in. The successive pair much softer. The reality is of course there is almost no science in the process. The molding is super fast and easy. The only science would be placing the driver and opening in the right spot in your inner ear to have the response be reasonable. For this, I would favor a dedicated CIEM manufacturer. Exactly why I was excited that Alclair was local. I bought these: http://alclair.com/product/versa-custom-in-ear-monitor/ with an added microphone for phone calls. By no means did they sound the best out of what they had, but they are easily good enough. I will also add that at first when I put the References in my ear they sounded completely lifeless in the midbass domain. I expected this as it is really how ALL IEM's are in my ears. Without blocking the whole canal, the response in the lows is minimal to non-existent. They had to go and dig out some hearing aid ends that worked out much better. If the low end of the customs end up being weak in comparison they will be fetching me some $$ back. I don't expect that though as if they are truly good at blocking sound they HAVE to be sealed.

On their webpage it has the iPhone 5s 16gb for $249.99 + $50 off and $100 Account Credit. Should only be $100, not $150... They have no good Android options atm price wise. Looking at Swappa for a used Sprint phone (which should work on Boost since they are a subsidiary) there are some other choices (ie, HTC M9 for $215, Galaxy S5 $120, Nexus 5 $160, LG G3 $119, Note 3 $145, HTC M7 $70) but those would then require you use your "credit" for air time instead of a device if that is possible. Used iPhone 5s's are going for $135 btw so you could buy it, sell it and buy something else but that sounds like a pain in ze proverbial ass.

I haven't really enjoyed non-custom IEM's but do blame my pinna hole.

The danger is real, but I wouldn't agree on the critical listening portion. It is very hard to tailor the sound appropriately in an IEM without a probe mic and a sound booth. A truly custom tailored solution therefore can obviously eventually be better, but I would expect at 4x the expense to get there. If you grab a $300 set of cans and a $300 set of IEM's I'd expect the cans to be able to out run the IEM's anyday of the week (assuming of course the signal chain is appropriate leading to them). That being said, I don't like wearing cans and would rather listen to speakers, but will not carry them on a plane or on my bike

Plane is still loud even with 30dB or so of attenuation....MUCH more pleasant though.

Especially because the environment I will use them in is horseshit. No reason to have a pristine response where the background noise is monstrous. You should hear my bike go down the trail right now. People DASH off the side of the trail as I come up behind them. Running a ton of carbide studs on dry gravel, lol. And yes, I need summer tires but just haven't gotten to it.

Ha, I feel the same way but my pinna are so large that any non-custom slides out a bit with just a teeny bit of pressure and destroys the bass response. I only picked on you above as we have a very similar disease of never taking the simple, easy and cheap way out. I am trying like hell not to go over board in this regard.....for once.

5-3 needed that BAD

The bottom end naturally gets fatter with a custom. That was my concern on the etymotics but they share the same profile and can be easily swapped with the Shure's if you get a custom mold to hold them.

4-2 MN

Etymotic makes a mean in ear response probe microphone. Everyone who makes IE anything uses them for measuring. Doesn't mean jack shit for what they design, lol. My "research" is biased where I know engineers but that also means jack shit.