///M5

Loose carpet, fug it. I hate dealing with carpet. It could look worse, but... IMO, it looks like you need to invest in tools more than anything. It is much harder to jigsaw a box and have it look good than when you use a circular saw/table saw and router combination. The cheater on the table saw for a box like that is to have Home Depot do your cuts (maybe have Supa route out your circle though)

2x, that is more than I thought it would have. Hail sucks.

Come to MN in January and I will show you, even though you probably won't like the temps outside.

SS 77.2% R 22.8%

We get plenty of snow, and lots of cold. The ice really makes it work. It might be interesting in my car this winter. Two nights ago I was going to out accelerate a pickup in the lane next to me and about the time my car hit the powerband in 2nd gear my a$$ was 10' off to the side, scared the piss out of the neighboring car and caught me by surprise as the road was just a little wet but that is definetely just part of the fun of an RWD car.

Crap, yank the E-brack and have some fun!! That is what the snow and ice are for.

Drifting is not so much fun with a front pumper. Used to have a set of those on my supercharged SHO, they didn't last very long (nothing did on that car) and in the snow they pretty much ditched. Good luck!

Yep, that was just a first layer. I like to shoot some paint on to see the low spots before the next layer as it seems to save me time sanding...oh and part of it is the paint I used. Leftover stuff that looks like weathered metal. Obviously these will be black at some point. Dennis, did you use something better for grills?

Definetely

Nice, now get 'er installed.

Hard to keep doing this and work full time, but here are some more updated pics. I have finished the glass on the kickpanels, and almost finished the body filler. I think I might paint these since they look pretty good so far, but we shall see. Pic 1: Driver side (the PITA for sanding, glassing and all that) Hard to tell that I lowered the dead pedal 2" now. Pic 2: Passenger side. This one was supereasy in comparison Pic 3: Started the mold for my A pillar tweets. I should have taken off the covers before now. I thought that I could just "bolt" my tweeters in, but the German engineers epoxied the dang tweeters in so I decided I would just make my own mold from their part and build a custom mount--easier to aim anyways. I'd say not too bad for my first front stage fiberglass project so far....

Sweet!

Morning, but I won't put a good in front of it. I just found out the obvious that f'glass doesn't stick to plastic if you flex the plastic out of the way. Guess I need to reinforce both sides...

You have to make sure you've done the job, it just isn't responsible otherwise.

Hard to dye?

Very useable. Much stronger than before, or will be when I am done. My foot will be in the way on axis, but being 6'7 I am always in the way. Normally when I drive a long distance I rest my foot on the floor under the clutch pedal. It will really only be used when driving aggressively and the driver will be grilled for foot protection. I cut the baffles for an 8" speaker grill since I couldn't find any 7" ones. If someone has a better grill idea, let me know. I am planning on these. http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi...5.25476&pid=892

Now to find the X-over....

This has been bugging me so help! For my daily driver SQ system I need to power: 12" Soundsplinter Rl-p --sealed 7" Seas W18e0001 -- IB in custom kicks Alpine F1 Status Tweet D2904/61001 on a pillars Old School Amplifiers I have already--power listed at 4 ohms: PG zx475ti -- 75x4 , 250x2 PG M44 -- 55x4, 160x2 Alpine 3032 -- 30x2 Sony XM-3520 -- 35x2 Pioneer GM-2000 -- 50x2 My current setup has the zx475 running the Rl-p with 250w on ea coil and the M44 bridged running my front stage passive. I plan on using the setup as is but going active and using one of my other amps for powering the tweeters. My concern with the Alpine is the lack of gains and its size. The others I hadn't really considered using but could be swayed. My options: 1) Use what I have--or keep for later 2) Buy a new tweeter amp What do you think. If you want me to buy an amp, please recommend!

The woman can sew, she actually likes to. Where do you cut? Highspots, lowspots? Would "padding" help?

Chit, I'll buy a heatgun if it helps that much.

Dead Pedal?? The last pic shows the footrest and my clutch pedal, the brake and gas aren't in the pic. Handlebrake for the parking manuvers to the other side of the street in the winter.

Well, that was sort of one of my questions. Since the voltage will swing from ~13.8V - 12V, I'd assume that would complicate the design some. Aha, I bet the regulator that Neon speaks about.

Nope. I'll post the voltage regulator design asap. Can you find me the current draw? You will need a LM7806 3-pin regulator forsure, other parts depend on the current draw. Not one, but 3 and indeed an ohm's law solution. Am I missing something? Your way does sound sexy.

Alright, here it is with the math filled in. You just need three resistors and they are all the same so it should be cheap. Unless of course you should be basing this on 13.5volts....I am not sure on that.

________ /\ \ | < | R1 > < --------- Vin \ /\ < | | R2 > Vout | < | \/ | \/ __________________ Vout = I*R2 = (R2* Vin)/ (R1+R2) Uh that got butchered in editing, try again with a picture