///M5

Some can be and some can be lemons. They do a lot of refurbs, if it were me I would listen to Denim and acquire either a US or Orion from someone here. It might not be the absolute cheapest, but super quality for a good price.

Yep, bad scanning resolution can't zoom. Thx tho.

http://coustic.com/classic/PDFs/DX-28.pdf Thanks but you can't read the print where it shows the breakout of the inputs. I did look, even though I must say I have minimum patience for looking.

X2, either option is great and the support local to this site which is a bonus as well. This way in a year or two you won't think about upgrading and if you "overpower" your current setup you can just turn down the gains!

Hate to bombard you guys with Q?'s, but I unpackaged the DX-28 and have never run into balanced/unbalanced inputs before and the darn manual has print that is too small to read since they scanned it poorly. I do not have balanced lines, do I need to make adapters or just use which of the 4 inputs?

Thanks for the links, I understood the gain but based on what I see maybe I will measure it anyway. The question I really had, I should have worded better. If I have generically a gain of 10dB at 30Hz, should I then design the enclosure to be 10dB down at 30Hz and only look at that number or are there other factors you take into account. Lots of other factors.... sub location, materials used in interior construction, subwoofer itself, shape of interior, etc. You can only guess soo much with the enclosure, make it the best, most educated guess possible, but only your ears & RTA will give you the feedback that will make it perfect. As far as what you have right now, it is as good as it can get without doing the good ol' trial & error. Will be pulling out the FFT analyzer in a week or two to make some measurements, I just was trying to make sure that the theory and myself were on the same page. Thanks.

Oooo, oooo, oooo. DHL just got here. Thanks Brad! Paid Th night, shipped Friday arrives on Monday!

Thanks for the links, I understood the gain but based on what I see maybe I will measure it anyway. The question I really had, I should have worded better. If I have generically a gain of 10dB at 30Hz, should I then design the enclosure to be 10dB down at 30Hz and only look at that number or are there other factors you take into account.

The Mag is nowhere near $250 more than the RL-P. My opinions, well I'm biased in the sub category, but that's not without merit. I've had a Brahma, XXX, W7 and chose the Mag over them all. It's simply a wonderful driver that does everything I need and does it better than any sub I've ever owned. As for components, I am not a fan of anything from eD, nor am I keen on CDT products, but for the money, and with those combos Upstage has, it's a deal. If you do some searching online, you can find a nice set of Rainbow components for around $150, maybe more or less, but if I personally HAD to buy a premade component set, I would not buy anything else. Even their lowest line can perform with some companies best offerings. Sorry, I saw on the web that the MSRP was $519 and went from there. Didn't actually look for one for sale though

I have a remote that already will work with Winamp/Foobar also controls the lights in my house and my home stereo. (F lots of remotes) Just feel like I should use a backup volume control in case the cpu goes nuts and sends out full gain.

Well just bought a E-MU 0404 24bit/192kHz Sound Card and some ultra-quiet Nexus fans to turn my cpu into a jukebox. I am going to wire it up to some DIY monitors through an Adcom 60wx2 amplifier, which brings up my question. Would you run an extra volume control in between the cpu and the amplifier. I am having a complex using the computer only control due to the fact that the amp is then "hot" the whole time amplifying anything that comes through the card, but I also don't really want to run the connections to have a volume control What would you do?

Neon, why you are on I have a question for you on sub box modeling and size of car/cabin gain. Is there any reading that you could point me to, to understand this or a general rule of thumb for box Q and car size? It seems everyone recommended the same size box for my Rl-p, but when I model it I have a Q of 0.38 which seems pretty low to me. Sounds great though...just curious as to why this is.

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Just posted some install pics....still waiting for my crossover from DHL, but at least it is "With delivery courier"--jeez can't tell they are a European company.

And the passenger side which cosmetically turned out a bit better (and was easier): I know my car is dirty, it has been in the garage with sanding and such going on around it for the past week. This will be fixed as soon as the stereo is in this evening--it makes me sick.

And some installed pics. I am just waiting for the DHL guy to get here with my "new" DX-28 so I can install the rest. Wired and ready to go up front now! First the drivers side (you can see the 4 screws holding on the grill until I come up with something better--they may just get paint), you can also see my now lowered dead pedal in the last shot and how the grill is recessed into it. Looks pretty good, I just wish I would have realized up front that there were no 7" grills...

Woot. Here are some pre-install pics of the finished baffles with the SEAS and tweets laid in them.

Does it hit voltage measured on a DMM? Check input and output..

Do you have a hu yet?

Flakko, are you still going to run your rainbows off one? Or are you going to swap out your components first?

Nice work, but

What is wrong with a non-cheap relay?

You will have to raise your suspension to turn them on, otherwise you will have scuffage.

You have an O-scope?