///M5

Yep, released originally as a catalog system for photo's and then everyone realized that Photoshop sucks for general editing and white balance adjustment so they released those capabilities in the "pre" editing software and called it lightroom. Fundamentally it is a white balance correction software that lets you do 99% of what you would need Photoshop for with a VERY small learning curve. If you haven't played with Gimp lately you will be surprised, it does 95% of what photoshop does. It is confusing if you are used to photoshop, but the price more than pays for it and if you run it in linux it pucking rips.

The only thing processing wise i use gimp for is removing people from merged pictures the rest of all editing i do in lightroom

Works the same on my end, but I shoot raw so they hit my pc first.

Photoshop isnt necessary. Light room does 99% of what you need done and gimp the rest

No but it would have been mor3 invstemnet now with the same loss later

Big Ugly is stock exhaust except the Long Tubes

I like the power, but would do it the dumb way next time. More boost. Thing is too damn loud.

I really don't like my headers.

Why are you selling?

Just wire them all in series parallel to the adcom. Bypass all the extra volume controls and call it a day.

Everybody? Lol, just the idiots that frequent his site and waste money on stuff that does nothing positive. All the ones who actually understand how things work either get banned, deleted or removed. He came on here once to try to sell his product and we asked some very simple questions that he couldn't even answer. Anyone who thinks his stuff is great, has zero idea about audio. Bummer that the exception can be the sub with his name on since he had really no influence in its design anyways.

Better to ask questions here than to read on some dumb forum. Camera forums are worse than Caraudio.com. The reviews are pitiful and ideas ridiculous. Obviously exceptions to every generality, but between a few of us we can surely answer and point you in the right direction. The best method of learning is to try to control as much as you can and see what it does. Go experiment with different settings and review them in the metadata for what worked and what didn't. The only hard part for you is that you are going to have a seriously impossible time getting any bokeh in portraits as your lenses are too slow. You can, but it will require that you get the background much further away than with a fast lens. Exactly why in my house the 50mm lives on the camera.

I installed volume pots on some Adcom amps at a bar 15 years ago and they are still running strong... How cheap?

Don't need wifi for that, just use the 2 second trigger. My Canon has that built in and I have really used it only for what you state. That is chasing golden hour. Finding a spot where I can sit and have a drink that is within 10' of my camera. Take a picture every 10 minutes or so as the light changes waiting for the right moment to observe later in software.

Ah, when you said filter kit I assumed they upsold you UV filters. A circular polarizer is critical on the wide angle, not really on the zoom. The difference above is more pissy white balance than the need for a polarizer. That of course is one other thing. Shoot in RAW and use some software that will allow you to adjust the white balance manually. Personally I can't live without light room as it also let's you cheat dynamic range with the shadows and highlights as well as black/white which makes a monstrous difference. Considerably more than the above btw.

Then what we said worked. Really glad you got over the new portion. If you lose $50 on a lens it isn't a big deal, but losing $300 on 2 would really hurt. I am not opposed to what you are doing now that you looked at it from a used perspective. I probably would have steered you towards a single lens to do that. The Tamron 18-270 takes as good of pictures as either of the lenses you bought, but is a single lens. Not changing makes it easier to determine what you really would end up with and it could be a walk around lens later on, although I find I never put mine on which means I've got $500 into a paperweight.

May have to grab my long Tamron super zoom and take some pics of the boys soccer game.

Mine always wear their hoods....except when taking a picture with the built in flash. BAD time to drop it. Should experiment with yours. Picture quality indoors is better with mine on.

That of course is also a problem with a kit lens. The hood. Not big enough to protect and too big to take photos with vignetting.

Don't bother running a filter on those either. Protection should be from a hood, not another piece of glass. When I shattered my 17-55 I think it was $75 from Canon for a new one.

And yes, I put a $30k laser on one today. lol

Just buy a cheap plastic tripod for $25. Never shoot longer than 5 seconds with it. It'll be fine. When it pisses you off you'll know what you need to spend. You may find it does everything you will ever need.

Since it is on the way, here is my personal getting started advice. Aperature lock mode, low as possible to only focus on the subject at hand and F11 for getting everything in focus. ISO 100. Center focus spot only (half press on target to focus then frame). And finding out what that means to your pictures. The camera will pick the shutter speed for you. If it is too slow for the situation you either have to reduce the Fstop or raise the ISO.

Doing it right if you are going to learn the hard way. Buy used, figure it out and sell. Those lenses are good for that. Pay attention to what you shoot, what you don't like and the rest will get logical. I'm curious to find out what range you think you want to upgrade first. Hell I'm excited to watch.

Ha, announcers just said my high school hockey coaches name on tv. Last of my high school friends still playing in the NHL is in game 6 of the quarters. I sure the fuck don't feel like my body would like playing hockey anymore.