///M5

I manually stretch new cables before installing to save on the wicked quick adjustment needed.

I thought you couldn't get to the small which is usually cable bind or shred/bind.

My wife really needs the multi-point focus though, everytime she picks up the camera it is horribly out of focus. She also will shoot both boys at once and have one out of focus because she pays no attention to the Av.

So yes, I agree completely. 99% of the time if you pick up my camera it is in the lowest possible aperature, iso 100, center focus, e/v -1/3, and I let it then pick the shutter speed only.

If you shot a lot of kids and wanted first and foremost to make sure there was focus, you would shoot shutter priority. Or things like shooting birds flying etc. Of course if you have the time to adjust both aperature and shutter in those situations it will be better, but sometimes you have to grab and shoot.

Ah, your cable stretched. Adjust the twisty tensioner until you can.

The f11 shot needs a longer exposure, turn it up. Btw, there are only 2 reasons I use manual. One is for the above, the other is when using a flash and trying to make it do exactly what I want. Otherwise, ALWAYS shoot in Aperature or Shutter lock with your ISO at 100. For the above, in manual it is useful to turn the ISO to 100 so that you can see what else the camera changes so you can dial in the shutter/aperature and then get the ISO to approach 100.

Get it on the big ring, stop pedaling, get off bike and click it down while pulling on the cable slightly. Does the cable feel like it is binding? 99% of shifting woes are really a cabling problem.

...or not, the stock flash sucks on all cameras, need a hot shoe one.

I thought you bought that one and were using it in your car. A second mount is super cheap, but if you already got the ball mount....

I hate camera review websites if you can't tell. Hype all the wrong things.

You are starting to see why the body is the last thing you need to worry about. Case and point cell phones. The pixel race is retarded as the lenses are injection molded out of plastic. Why is this important? Because imagine a defect on a full frame lens and sensor. Now shrink the sensor in half (mirrorless) and the lens defects also must shrink in half to only have the same effect making manufacturing way more difficult. Now shrink that even further and the process gets harder. It becomes REALLY easy to have a sensor that over resolves what the lens can. Your camera does this to your stock lenses easily. Even worse on the level of shit you can carry in your pocket. The test work on each optic that goes into the big 3 phone manufacturers I am rather familiar with...as in we designed it. Can also say the same for the flatness measurements on some lenses that make either Canon or Nikon SLR look like the plastic pieces of crap that are in cell phones. In an SLR you buy a lens to keep and use, body to get a temporary job done.

Sort of defeats the purpose on an SLR to shoot at anything other than full raw. ie, all 24.2 in your case. You also really NEED raw. The chromatic aberration, lens distortion and white balance are something I'd personally want to fix on the shots you've shown. All are nearly automatic in light room. And no, they won't all need to be always done on every shot.

You already have the phone mount, the bike adapter portion is like $3 I only run one sprocket in the front, my days of front derailleurs are over. 2 is monstrous overkill, 3 retarded. Either way, should be an easy fix as front derailleurs are simple. Is the detent gone or what is it doing?

I'd hate it in a car. Takes too long to put it in and out and the thing is HUGE, but on a bike it is 100% necessary when you ride off road.

You have stock speakers you aren't using. They are irrelevant. You bought new speakers, they are rated in ohms. That is what you need to worry about. Those are the ones that apply the load to your amp, the stockers don't matter. Also, seriously get rid of the rears. Horrible waste.

Starting to feel comfortable on a bike again. Fat tires are a hoot

Dont need such a robust mount for the car. I caught a good 8' of air today with mine in my handlebars

It compenaates for vibration which means when the ahutter fires on a tripod it moves tbe lens to deal with the vibe....blurri g the pic

The chromatic aberration on that lens is awful....you need lightroom

Use the 2 second delay on a tripod and shut off the vibration compensation

Stop using the nikon white balance. Use 100 unless you cant fo. Shutter speed. Dont run a canon lens on a nikon, sell the nikon and run it on a canon.

Why? It is completely irrelevant in your install.

Read what he is proposing again before getting butt hurt lol

Then do nothing but stretch it and add back doors. 5" would be enough.