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Everything posted by ///M5
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A gasket is pointless ALL speakers SHOULD be mounted on a baffle. Bolting anything to the stock sheet metal is an exercise in futility for decent sound. It completely ruins good speakers. A set of $1000 components mounted that way can easily sound worse than a set of $30 drivers mounted the right way. Install, install, install.
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Matt this might help. It is for XL and bigger frames, but normally frames scale. Finding an Ice Cream Truck in L may be a good start for a test ride. And yes there are more in that spreadsheet, and no it is not something you can download. I am an odd size and shop like an idiot so that is all my dumbass. Long ETT and low standover are your friends. Standover not that big of a deal. I would try to find a 170mm and 190mm Q factor to compare. The ICT will be 190 and I think the Pivot Le Fat you rode is a 170mm...but I will have to Google to check. The ICT may be too slack, but holy hell can it go through shit. I test rode one and rode through 18" deep mud. Got all nasty lol
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Nice. Don't need 12 for that small of a DOF. Looks good, a bit more F would help though. I'd try lengthening the exposure time and lower the built in exposure a notch. Obviously increasing the F stop will help too so that you don't flare out the second tube again.
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Or perhaps you need to go to a region that is competitive. I competed in the late 80's and 90's and NEVER ran components then either. 3 15's, a single midbass, single midrange and tweeter per side. Times haven't changed, just some installations were always better than others. Anyone who competes in SQ with just a set of components, fails....although they will beat the guy with two sets.
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Effects of speaker missing it's dustcap.
///M5 replied to jcarter1885's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Sd is lower -
Perhaps you could see this from a different light. You were very decided on what exactly you wanted to do and asked for verification it was the right thing. When it wasn't agreed that your method was the right choice you took everything as an attack when we are just trying to show you that you are making decisions without understanding the best path for success. It has nothing at all to do with being a champ and everything with wanting to learn. If you don't want to learn, why bother asking a question?
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Voltmeter wiring
///M5 replied to Cj the newbie's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Competition aside where slight drops can cost you tenths. -
Voltmeter wiring
///M5 replied to Cj the newbie's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Generally that is a waste of money. Just use a DMM and check it in your driveway. Be great if you could find one with a peak/valley hold and hold the valley. No reason to have one at each end of the chain either, if there isn't enough voltage at the amp there isn't enough voltage plain and simple. Also no real reason to watch it over time as all that will tell you is if your battery/alternator are failing. -
Voltmeter wiring
///M5 replied to Cj the newbie's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
The SMD sub has nothing to do with SMD. It wasn't designed by him, was developed BEFORE he turned into a money grubbing lying bitch and of course is attractive for all of his idiotic followers. If you read my post it says "his stuff" ie the crap he designed to rip noobs off. The gain setting tool, amp dyno etc are all useless pieces of shit. They do nothing. -
Raw drivers chosen for their environment, aiming and frequency response with a processor to run the crossover and eq.
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Voltmeter wiring
///M5 replied to Cj the newbie's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Be way better. Any voltmeter of any type will measure voltage wherever you put it in the chain. Question is always why you are wanting to know and what you will do when you see what it is. Much easier to answer how/what to use then. SMD is a lying douche that is only out for one thing and that is ripping off noobs. His stuff has zero utility and is all gimic based on a need that isn't there. None of it works, it is really sad. -
I have been out rednecked. I love it!!
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Once you go phat you never go back
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Yes crop. FF would buy you a couple feet more.
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Voltmeter wiring
///M5 replied to Cj the newbie's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Good for what? Pretty much nothing he sells is worth it. All BS -
it's okay I just called him take care of that conversation
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I love my fat bike...i am calling you
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Budget and how are you riding it?
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Battery advice
///M5 replied to Cj the newbie's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
The bigger the capacity the better IF you can tie it down safely -
Voltmeter wiring
///M5 replied to Cj the newbie's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Most volt meters are pretty useless as their slew rate is slow. If you want to track transients record it at a higher speed than a display. Multiples are extra stupid -
You are missing the point completely. Comparing a crap install with or without the rears will tell you nothing. Fix what you have first!! And as for your other question. Yes pretty much all car components are lame. I havent run a comp set in my car since the late 80's
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Seth the headshota above i was at least 5' off at 50mm.
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So in other words with perfect light the primes win. Too bad we never see perfect light aargh
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If it werent for IS awesomesauce on that lens i could argue a pair of primes is better...but you gain 2-3 stops without reducing the field of view which is huge. Too bad the damn thing is a fuxking tank
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On a ff. Crop 5' is a headshot with a 50