///M5

won't be so easy to pull off.

$7500

Still rather drive the Chevelle than any turbo charged mini-van.

Until I finished...

Love it myself, can't get enough of it. Naan is my favorite bread, any bread that requires that you dip it sounds like a good idea to me.

Can you do a passthrough in an armrest or something? It would take some serious sealing to get a good IB installation done in your car. Either way, you might shake that poor Corolla apart. I know you were concerned about sub output on DIYMA, if that's the case instead of a second you could port it. That sub will sound great either way, but I don't think considering your music tastes that you will need a second and no troubles for that sub to keep up with Dave Holland's bass lines all day long.

Super install, and excellent vids. WOW!

This is an SLM, oh and an RTA....just can't buy it at Wally world. http://www.bksv.com/default.asp?ID=3153

Repost or not, this device is teh USELESS. Just to check I looked it up, not even a type 2 like the radio shack (type 0 is most accurate, type 1 is acceptable for measurements in the audible range, and type 2 is +/-8db by 8kHz and rolls off accuracy on the low end too). I'd bet at 50hz this thing is off by more than 10db which would make it uber useful for measuring, it will be way more repeatable than that but who gives if it is that far off. At least the Radio Shack is a type 2, this is just a pos.

Unless you had some real thick old Detroit steel. I could see that working real sweet in an old heavy muscle car, sure your 30lb doors would then be 60 but the hinges are made to take it and crossing over your mids at even 150hz allows you to run more specialized mids if they don't have to take over that 60-150 midbass range. Adding 20-30lbs of weight to a Japanese car door is just asking for it though (applies to any newer car too).

The one thing you can sort of audition on a board are tweeters. It will at least let you know if you have a metal/silk preference. If it weren't for the friendly pricing, I'd say that JL is generically a safe recommendation but significantly overpriced. If your deal eliminates the overpriced then they should work out well for you. For dampening, Neon's rec'd are good but you could also look at Raamat. I am right with Tom on the 15-20 per door, plus two layers in the trunk, and at least one on the floor pan. Since you have a 4 channel amp for the fronts, you could get a crossover and run them active. It would open up some options for running an 8" like you asked about, or at least let you really choose your drivers...but if you think you have choices now, LOL. Oh, and nice car. Please be sure to post pics and let us know how/what you decide.

Morning Ryan, this cracked me up bigtime. Thanks!

*looks at receipt* 2.77 here, and the stations near my house are usually about .10$ high

oxymoron

The search for the grail continues. Nice score!!

I bet its a type 0 too.

/\ actually I don't want to see them, I just had to ask.

Why not? If she's too leery about it, just poke it in when she passes out.

At least you left out "it"

Just found out I have to drive to Chicago next week for a day or two. It will be nice to let the M stretch its legs, but will take away time from installing in the truck...maybe its a sign my cables didn't come right.

Hard to run active with only 2 leads...

Yep too late. 11-4 ET, wtf hours are those. I hate RMA's and double shipping fees.

Aaaah!! Friggin' Knu, somehow I ordered the wrong friggin' cable. I wanted the bi-amp cable and ended up with normal. The receipt is right, but I KNOW that I ordered the 4 conductor. I bet its too late to call them too.

What's wrong with drinking heavily???

*goes to make the bagels*