///M5

LOL

:woot:

Thanks. Mostly I have to get rid of the Leer/Radko and Z71 badges. While I am at it the LT badge will go too. I probably will remove the Silverado and Chevrolet once the gun gets in my hand. And to answer the removal question, if you heat them up with a heat gun they usually peel right off. While the glue is warm, I just use my thumb to rub it off. Any residue is easily removed with a buffer if it doesn't come off. However, if someone has an easier way now would be a great time to post it.

TOP

I just unboxed it.

Whats up Radio?

butt load of 10w resistors for like $1 each cooled in distilled water. 50 of them could probably handle close to 1000w for short periods of time if they are cooled in water. My guess is the temperature drift is going to net you 5% at best. water is 5 times more heat conductive than air it also has a much higher specific heat. But the problem is 5x is not enough.

TOP

Hurry up UPS.

Safe travels....

Now I just have to pull out the heat gun and get rid of all the badging.

*goes to take pictures*

I am *patiently* waiting for UPS to arrive with my 880 and I just got back with my topper installed.

Anyone thinking about selling a sub amp? Something around 500-600 watts RMS? I have a friend who is looking. Edit: for a SVC 4ohm sub -- Dayton 10" HO

This is a new high, has to be a bit hard to pedal and or see

Speedo that only goes to 95 ftl.

butt load of 10w resistors for like $1 each cooled in distilled water. 50 of them could probably handle close to 1000w for short periods of time if they are cooled in water. My guess is the temperature drift is going to net you 5% at best.

I didn't say that either, what I said is that I would always prefer to have a parametric over a graphic. As Brad stated, whether the 10 bands will be enough are completely install dependent and comparing 31 bands with 10 isn't much of a fair comparison. The thing I don't like about graphics is that they are almost always only on 1/3 octave bins and aren't adjustable in location nor Q where with a parametric you can dial in your problems and eliminate them without coloring nearby bands that aren't problems. In a perfect world having both would be sweet!

LMAO

You need a load, of course the only ones I know of are the ones that I used to sell. Elgar/Sorensen ones; however, they are more than $10k a pop. Free to me when I still was their rep though. I am sure that there are much cheaper alternatives, but E/S are probably the best. Used to use them to benchmark all sorts of stuff from cpu power supplies, to 20kw generators, to small subcomponents and so on.

There are a few things I turned down in HS I wouldn't the second time around. Could have kept my dick a lot wetter and surely would like to redo that. Other than that HS was pretty much lame. I would have stayed in college forever if it stayed the same though.

I think he shouldn't shave and post a pic with just the top buttons buttoned.

I always prefer parametrics, the adjustable Q alone is worth its weight in gold when taming inconsistencies in your response of course as long as there is enough gain/damping in each bin. Graphic eq's are easier to understand, but I don't think the results are as good. A lot of others will disagree with me here perhaps, but I'd prefer the para. On the same note the extra tools you get with the H701 would be sweet as well.

Just wait until I build the '02. Ideas running through my head like crazy ... and it's such a female dog to decide on equipment. *waits eagerly*

I almost used two mirrors, but eh that would be work and I don't have a tripod.