///M5

You've never said one thing trustworthy so why would anyone trust you. You could start by explaining phase to us noobs.

Come on Billy, stop being a Sally. Teach us if you know something. Seems to me even you don't believe that otherwise you would respond differently. ****back on topic like the thread should stay**** And yes, the woofer tester will show you the differences in the drivers. Everything it does CAN be simulated with a multimeter, a frequency generator, a high accuracy resistor, an amplifier, and some random stuff around your house. Not hard to do, but not trivial either. Of course that will give you more than you need, but you do need Impedance at different frequencies. At some they will surely be similar/same at others not assuming of course the tweeter is bad. It is just a rather huge leap considering a week ago you didn't want to unplug your tweeters by yourself.

Scared him away again, eh?

Advanced wont help. You could measure an impedance curve one note at a time...but something like a woofer tester would be way easier.

Yikes, no thanks. Polarity switch on a DSP is a prerequisite for any install I am in doing.

Measuring an impedance curve could provide insight, but resistance not so much. ie, an el cheapo multimeter won't do anything for you...

I'd check for a wire grounding between two terminals. or, ie just redo all the connections and make sure that they are all clean and tight. If the problem then still follows the tweet I'd send it in.

You forgot to google cancellation. Wiki knows more than you and that is uber sad. Feel free in your exuberance to try to explain differently though. There are many of us that are waiting to "learn" from you.

So in other words you have no idea what phase is.

Depends on where you disconnect them. If you take the wires off the crossover completely no need to tape, but of course when in doubt TAPE. I think you are seeing now why I would never put a crossover in the door. You should really compare all variations of polarity on the speakers. And yes I know this is a crapload of combinations, but when you find the right one it will be extremely noticeable.

Of course you can't. You seem to be confused thoroughly on everything audio. Google cancellation and don't just read but think for once. Eureka moment should happen, if not think harder.

So yes, compare your midbass as well, but either do them INDEPENDENTLY (ie only Left or only right connected) or try all variations of phase.

Perhaps or perhaps not. Fixed it may not be. I have NEVER had a car where having both mids and both tweeters in phase (ie wired as described from the speaker manufacturer) sounded best. Trying to swap the +/- for all 4 of the drivers independently can yield monstrous benefits in the frequency response.

Of course you would, but that won't help. A rudimentary understanding of amplifiers would be useful here. That doesn't sound like thermal noise, but in the case it is a weird auralization of noise it is really easy to check. Just turn the gain down on the amplifier. If the noise goes away completely then it is the amp, if it doesn't it isn't. Considering your toils Florida_Audio I would try to turn the gain down first. That noise sounds like interference from something else however. The gain test will tell you if it is noise from the amp though. Let us know what you find.

ROFL. You can't read. You've never gotten me bent out of shape, I just feel sorry for your confusion and lack of comprehension. Tony is a money grubbing noob cheater and has shown no engineering aptitude. May claim that as a title, but hasn't proven it with capability. I am not German. Not even close. Glad you can show your maturity and incapability to read even further.

Billy Jack acts like a pre-pubescent teen and is butt hurt because when he says ridiculous garbage i correct him. Particularly hard on him since in general he is one of the most confused and misled posters i have seen on an audio site. Therefore to further show his maturity he marks my posts. I don't care however as rating or not it doesn't change the content of my posts. I am not in junior high...

Does the behavior completely follow the tweeter? It sounds likely but tones are better for comparing as your ear can co fuse you on music

Truth

Reduction. Kept tearing bitches. Too heavy.

Messy, but mass is mass!

Also did my home pc and my dad's. We'll see on 10. Doesn't really seem any different outside of hiding menu's I use...

Installed Win 10 on the carpc. Joyconn stopped working. After troubleshooting it I realized perhaps the steering wheel needs voltage as I had the car completely off. Resistance readings were close....so glad I reprogrammed it.

Multimeter checks resistance and voltage, not impedance. It can be helpful in trouble shooting but let's start with your ear. Play a 2500Hz sine wave on your stereo (Funcgen on your phone or other wave generators work). See how that sounds between the two tweeters. When something follows the driver, I'd expect it but your description of what has happened is a bit hard to follow. Using tones will help highlight the differences.

I think the shop sucks. Mounting a crossover in the door is something I'd never do.

Roflcopter. I sync 600gb of music alone and a few hundrred in pics