///M5

Indeed. I bought spare replacement F1 Status tweets brand new for $30/piece which when you realize the MSRP was $4000 for the set it shows what you are buying with name brand gear. They better honor the warranty...

Depends on where it is and your tolerance. In normal listening I surely don't want mine above 20', but you and I are probably different cats.

Resonant frequency of the tweeter. I googled your set real quick and couldn't find it. Normally it is listed for raw drivers. Start at 3000Hz and you'll be fine even not knowing it. Go up from there. If it is the tweeter you'll hear a difference. If you don't it could be lower in frequency too, but the lower you go the quieter you need to play it to keep it safe.

100'/sec no thanks.

Not saying I recommend you do that, but I personally would. Hell you need it out to send it in anyways.

Any speaker can be connected directly to any amp/setup. Just could damage it really easily. ie, it would be possible to blow a tweeter with 1w at the wrong frequency. Really making sure you are only playing safe frequencies through it are 100% necessary. Keep the gain down (ie start at ZERO and turn up slowly) and only listen to frequencies that are 2x Fs or more and you will be fine. It can be safe much lower, but that requires more attention and will not be necessary to confirm there is a difference between the two. It will also isolate any install problems or buzz/hum.

Be careful with your ears! It is the only sense we have that is best the day we are born. Test bench in this case meant just hooking it up to a frequency source and an amplifier.

Home theater you need to port ridiculously low. Typically also using a really large enclosure. Music is much more similar. Of course in particular needing to know the goals of it before building/designing.

I've used mine everyday for the past 2 years now. Having a cheap Elm plugged in for more than a week straight always killed them. Usually made my car freak out too. Did weird things like shut off the anti-locks and make all sorts of lights flash that shouldn't. Said fuck that

Lord, I didn't read 8's. No way, no how does that enclosure work. WAY too big. Ported 8's in general are a meh idea as the box ends up being nearly as large as if you used a much larger driver.

A bigger midbass means either new tweeters or a 3 way. Dialing in what you have and making sure you know exactly what you want to improve however is a better next step

And yet again you can't read. I can see who gives a reputation post, you did. Someone else asked who would give me a negative rep for a post I made so I answered. You are obviously trying to stretch the truth for some unapparent reason none of us understand, but stop. The other major error in your post is that I also am not getting negative reps from anyone but you atm. I seriously don't care either way, but you are proving over and over trustworthy isn't a term you should use for yourself. We'd all get along better if you'd stop acting like a teenager with hormonal swings and instead just try to learn for once.

Stop thread dumping. Make a thread and I'll answer. Won't do it here.

Square it off in the back. You have to have even walls to really know what is happening. It will be easier to build squared off and the part behind the port will still be part of the box volume so the gains of the slant still exist.

Those are sweet. Maybe my next car

Have fun?

The cheapies die. I've lost three of them. They also have difficulties connecting and don't show you near the information. I do however also now use a computer instead of a mobile device so I have no idea what the mobile software is like on theirs. I assume it kills the generic Elm units. Like everything else though it comes down to what you want it to do. I want real time gauges of all aspects of what is happening on my engine. That never works out in Torque. Works 100% of the time on my pc with the one caveat being I occasionally have to retighten the USB springs as it stops working when it becomes unplugged and my ride is harsh enough that can happen regularly if the springs aren't super tight.

There will be cancellation in EVERY install. Always. What you can hear and what you can solve are always the constraints. Time alignment doesn't cure cancellation either btw, but will change it potentially. I was going to recommend a long time ago in the thread to remove the tweeters and test them on a bench. My concern wtih the recommendation is that it is easy to destroy them if you play the wrong signal. If you do, play NOTHING below 2kHz to be safe and start at low levels to ramp up to what makes sense. Do both tweeters independently and you will know for sure if it is your tweeter.

Cheap BT stuff is useless. Scantool and OBDwi. Ftmfw. Of course it depends on what codes you need to pull. I have the scantool and hp tuners connected at all times

They don't take more to feed them than 4ohm ones. If they do, the 4's are designed like crap. Beware of sensitivity ratings.... Mating an 8 to the AMT"s isn't going to work. Need a tweeter with an Fs around 1kHz to even try and even at that it will be a compromise.

Damn you Craigslist, stop tempting me. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/boa/5707176961.html If it didn't have that weird blue in it or had a 200 Vrod on it I'd be screwed.

I am against stating generalities in audio, but the most true one there is should give you some solace. 8ohm mids > 4ohm mids, nearly always.

Chrome just hangs, IE says there is a long running script fucking it up.

The forum is acting all jacked again. Won't scroll, can't quote, slow

It was me!