///M5

I wouldn't put those pads on the rear and have crap ones on the front though, I'd order a full set or move the new ones to the front.

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Link didn't quite work right. By traditional rear brake do you mean cantilever style or old school? Also do you have a 28, 32, or 36 spoke hub? (32 is std, but I am rough and usually upgrade to 36, if you break rims regularly it is a good idea too). Depends on your budget as well. I have had good luck with Mavics in the past. http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/143-Rim...ips.aspx?s=1649 What is on there now is a 36 spoke Matrix 550 wheel. The brakes are the traditional cable squeezes two brake pads agains the rim style. *pic of the bike* http://www.fisherbikes.com/images/bikes200...lls/advance.jpg Not surprised you have a mangled matrix, but I am that you actually have a 36 spoke. On a bike in that price range that is really unusual. As for pads since those brakes look like old skool cantilevers, I use these on my bike and they made a huge difference over the shimano xtr ones that came on it. Cheap too! http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR4...le+Claw+Ii.aspx

I'd actually phrase it the other way, why would you want to keep the rear speakers? They degrade your stage, do not add any volume, and pretty much make music sound really unnatural. If I were you with that money, I'd deaden like crazy, buy an amp and some awesome front stage speakers and call her a day.

you need to educate him. your mom will like it too since she won't have a box to dodge.

where is the 5 chn?

Link didn't quite work right. By traditional rear brake do you mean cantilever style or old school? Also do you have a 28, 32, or 36 spoke hub? (32 is std, but I am rough and usually upgrade to 36, if you break rims regularly it is a good idea too). Depends on your budget as well. I have had good luck with Mavics in the past. http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/143-Rim...ips.aspx?s=1649

Much better use of your money, even if it goes up to the same price as you were initially going to spend. There might be others though so don't be too eager. I personally like more of the less mainstream brands, but of course that is subjective and not for ride quality but I like to be different (if you didn't already know )

I agree. To me a great sub accurately hits lows with authority(<50hz), but to many I talk to it's helping a weak midbass in the 100-150hz range. It's a matter of preference. My wife sat in a car a few weeks ago and told me it had the best sounding stock system she's heard. It had the sound faded to the back speakers, with almost no deep bass. I thought it sounded terrible. So it depend on your tastes. 100-150 wtf? I sat in a car this week that sounded completely awesome, his sub was crossed at 18db at 31.5hz and below. Most definitely an SQ install. Takes some crazy midbasses to make that work though.

There is a chatroom here though...

morning brother Ramos

Your assumption that I actually have AIM isn't correct. Otherwise, I'd be glad to.

Personally I like hardtails, but to each his own. I would really recommend riding a few bikes in the $1000 class and seeing what you like before buying. Bikes are very personal and finding one that fits you well is extremely important. Look for a Jamis dealer nearby as well.

My wifes XTC was only 675 and a full suspension.

Both T & S were founded by Joe Breeze's friends. Small world. Are you interested in hardtails only or perhaps a softy? Have you ever looked at any of these? Ironhorse, KHS, Jamis, Ellsworth, Klein, Dean, Giant, Kona, Litespeed

Out of all things you can buy a used bike can really save you money.

Have you ridden anything you like? How long is your inseam? How tall are you? What sort of riding do you plan on doing? Any experience on a bike before (even bmx or anything)? Any brand tendencies? .... Sort of like picking a sub a little history would help.

by not using a box at all. you just need to separate the front wave from the driver from the back. as an example you could mount the drivers in the ceiling. the front wave would come into the room and the rear wave into the attic area. the key to a good sounding installation is to make sure that the areas are very well sealed off from each other.

all the same or not at all

time for food.

Haynes manuals really aren't all that helpful.

There is no box in IB...

2 years ago I bought my wife a Giant XTC that was a year old and had pretty much never been ridden. $1650 list price, I paid $675. Even today I could get more than $675 for it. In 1994 I bought my breezer, one year old at that point. $2800 new, I paid $675 today it is still worth somewher near $400 if not more. Funny that I paid the same for both, but either way I hope you see my point. As for the frame, my Breezer has more than 10k miles on it and has no problems with the frame. Of course being a Breezer it has Ritchey welds and all XTR stuff. The frame is cheap, the components are what hold their value. To get a decent deal on a bike and not lose your shorts you need to buy used components.

hehehehehe. It's the bike I'm most likely gonna go with. I went in the shop today and they had so many more bikes then the first place I went to. I think I've made up my mind to buy a Specialized Rockhopper Disc in Satin Black Swoosh. As soon as my friend gives me the rest of the money he owes me for my half stack I'll go pick it up. Can't wait . Link? new/used? http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22178 n00b Food for thought: a one year old Pro Disc will be about the same money if it is used. The upgraded component sets alone are worth looking for one. Out of all things that you can buy used, I highly. highly recommend doing it on a mt bike. the only problem I have with buying used is this. If I don't buy it from a shop I don't have a lifetime warranty on the bike frame. I also don't have a 1 year free maintenance work for whatever bike I choose. I'd be losing a lot if I bought a bike used......so that's why I'm buying new. If you break a frame you won't ever ride again. Either way you could part out the pro and sell the components for almost as much as the bike. As for the adjustments they are super, super easy and cheap even if you have to pay for them. I don't want to be pushy, but you are about to throw away more than 50% of your money to buy new. The other guarantee that I have if you actually like riding it you are going to want something different later and the best way to insure you lose the most is to buy used.

You could run dual 18's for the price of the 15 almost. Dual 18's in 14 cubes sealed in a basement. Now that would be fricking awsome for a college house. IB Haven't figured out how to do IB in the rental... Just need to find a friend who can either sheet rock or repair the floor.