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Everything posted by ///M5
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As soon as I move, I will get a TV. So many things to buy, so little time and money.
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HBD!
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I didn't take anything off. It's what I applied. Modeling clay goes on all my drivers to help defeat frame resonances. Aaron, again, big thanks! We'll be doing business again SOON. what? By defeat resonances he means to shift them. Works just like a constrained mass layer (aka sound deadening) that you would put on panels in your car. In the case of a speaker it can defeat modal bending that potentially could color the sound at the natural frequency of the basket itself. Think of it as changing the tone that a bell rings at, in this case the bell is the frame of the speaker.
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how do i wire this?
///M5 replied to flakko's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
My vote goes to a headunit with crossovers, having to pop the trunk to make changes isn't so much fun. Since your amp has "crossovers" doesn't it only need 1 RCA input? Then it would be easy. -
I'd still see how low they can play, and please post your thoughts as I am curious. In my w's Audi there is a huge whole and the subs play well into the 150hz range or so. *pukes
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yeah I was trying to avoid spending alot of $$ and getting mids and all that, but I'm starting to hear every flaw in the BLOSE system so I know I'll upgrade eventually. I'll probably wait till Christmas break, so I'll have a lot of time to research and figure out everything cause I don't know hardly anything about front stage stuff... cars are too addicting... I got out of the Honda scene to save some money and I'm still modifiying haha -John You don't always have to spend a lot of money to get good sound. Running active can be your friend. The blose system is junk and might not even be able to support your subs at 100hz.
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Hell, I will probably be there to visit maybe even a few times before you leave
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Congrats on going to the Netherlands, IMO it was by far the best choice you could make out of the three.
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Going to look at "her" http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/370758547.html
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While I am glad you are finally putting in a system and it looks like it will be nice, I must say $350 for speaker wire and Kicker comps? Seems backwards to me. Especially when you have active capabilities. As for your noise, others have experienced that at Diyma on the 360 and I am not sure if they found a cure.
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Nope, gets pretty soft but doesn't melt. A bit might drop off, but again you are adding mass so if you lose a little it isn't that big of a deal. Regrettably it isn't something I dare do to the Seas with the coil showing. Looks good Ryan, I can't wait to see what you do with them.
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There aren't a ton of 8's that will blend super well with tweeters, but you could surely look at: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...933bd46054b5d6e http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1600 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=821 -- but the breakup might require a notch depending on the tweet you use http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8176 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=949 All will probably have to be matched with a large format tweeter, or perhaps the Scan Speak D2904 but I'd prefer the large format if I could get away with it. I haven't heard the Hi-Vi but know someone who enjoys theirs running 2way with the HDS tweeter and loves it. The CA is going to lack on the midrange in particular on the 8, but the midbass output can be great. The L has a nasty breakup mode, but should have cleaner midrange and wicked midbass. The NX I haven't heard in an 8, but it is the king of 7's in my book. The Rev is new and just a guess that you could probably make it work really well. The other option would be to use a 7" Extremii which would have rather capable midbass, but need some real help on the upper end as well. Better in a 3 way probably, but with a real low running tweet you should be okay. Tweeters, there are a ton of choices as well but other than the Scan they are pretty much all large face tweeters. Have fun with the IB install and post pics as you make your way through it.
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I prefer them sealed and only have my Rlp playing to 50hz, your preference may be different. My guess is that if you have it currently playing closer to 100hz you would be happier with a ported sub that will give you more output since at the moment it will be extremely localizable.
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That isn't a system it is a pair of subs with a ton of power. To be a system you need deadening and a front stage.
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Fully loaded is the only way to buy any used car, nice work. Enjoy!
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John, Scott took care of the subsonic question, as for tuning go as low as your mids can handle. I'd use the test tones to feel where they roll off and then turn the sub up to fill in. I don't have either of my vehicles playing above 50Hz and if I could would even turn them lower. If you want to start out generically try the 60hz, but in your truck with deadening and some real mids you should be able to get really nice LFE out of your doors. Most people are shocked when they hear how low mine boogie.
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Have fun camping Scott.
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I go back and forth on the Blendtec or Vitamix. One of these days I will own one.
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No competitions here either. Too bad too, I'd love a local SQ comp.
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I'd like to come, but it will depend on when.