///M5

Welcome to the home of the Fi Forum!

Nice looking box! Welcome to SSA! Pics in the HT section would be sweet.

Sorry, when you typed "I just cannot go lower HP on the mids" I was picturing your mids and not a midbasses. Either way, I think you actually can as they are rated conservatively assuming that most people will do a bad install with them. A bit of underlap usually is your friend as well although not always between the sub and midbass. I wouldn't let manufacturers specs waive me too much but don't expect it to be too differently.

I didn't think you had them picked out yet?

Its bigger than him!

Should have painted that chair too

They don't make a single car without the plastic flimsy stuff. My truck is pathetic.

I can go lower lp on the subs...I just cannot go lower hp on the mids. Crossover limited?

top

The cables I have, but not any of the other parts as well you know they really weren't worth keeping.

I read 106% humidity and thought damn, you have it worse than us

Hey!

It's my new money pit. Bought a new old fork, dual use pedals (clipless on one side, platform on the other), shoes, and padded shorts so far. Now I need a job to get a full suspension frame. If you're still going to get a bike, I would recommend getting an all mountain bike rather than a cross country bike, XC is kinda boring. You need better XC trails, I would prefer to ride XC anyday but of course where I live fits that pretty well. Single track FTMFW! I guess that's the kid in me, I like taking jumps and such. So do I, however my days of 15' air are now long gone. I have always felt better on a hardtail on landings as the compressing of the suspension spooks me.

Magic Stick 4 & PRC heads (stage 1 $999ea, basically an LS6 casting with stock LS6 springs) alone took the LS1 from 400hp to 530hp and 411tq to 464tq and didn't crap out at the top. I realize that doesn't answer your question, but if you search for the GM High-Tech 1998 Z28 it has a MS4 and stock unported heads, so it might be one to emulate. It did run a 10.51 @125...sorry I can't find the details on it but haven't yet searched the www either.

It's my new money pit. Bought a new old fork, dual use pedals (clipless on one side, platform on the other), shoes, and padded shorts so far. Now I need a job to get a full suspension frame. If you're still going to get a bike, I would recommend getting an all mountain bike rather than a cross country bike, XC is kinda boring. You need better XC trails, I would prefer to ride XC anyday but of course where I live fits that pretty well. Single track FTMFW!

I'm with Neil, if you can let your midrange do most of the work. Use the tweeter for sparkle and the midbass to keep the bass lines up front. Having a single driver play most of the acoustic spectrum is very helpful in creating realism of your stage. Since you are going with a dedicated midbass I would try hard to get the lp on your sub lower (also curious as to your 8dB slopes ) The best imaged system I have heard actually didn't even have tweets, just mids in the right spots with midbass in the doors and a sub in the trunk crossed at 31hz.

I haven't been outside today, but yesterday it was surely hot.

Copy and improve. Nice. My favorite line out of any thread on here lately, "lots of things to do before the substage...it's at the bottom of the list"

The cheap shit never lasts, actually even the good stuff wears out. I just bought a full Ridgid setup from Home depot. 24v li-ion. Not that I really preferred the Ridgid setup to others, but the lifetime warranty includes batteries and chargers. My last three setups have died only due to the batteries/chargers going out but when a new battery is $50 I always consider it time for a new drill. I am curious to see how this will hold up. It didn't hurt that the $900 set was in a box that had been smashed a bit so they clearanced it to $295

Are they much different from the Daytons? To the OP. I wouldn't use the stock crossover for this, if you want to run three way just build a simple 1st order network for the midrange to tweet slope and call it good. It will sound way better than using something that is no where optimized for what you buy.

If you don't want to build another enclosure you aren't going to be able to use the information then anyway. It will take you multiple iterations to really dial things in. If you are serious about wanting the max output, get ready to build multiple enclosures not just one.

Nice. What are you going to do with them?

Easy. The only solution for that is Alpine with the H701 combo.

Generically speaking in a car, it is a good recommendation to run IB for your mids unless you really know what you are doing.

If 2.1cuft is actually optimal just ignore BBP as it isn't modelling that driver right for your application. Building a box to 2.1cuft is pretty easy. 2.1cuft (1728cuin/cuft) = 3628.8cuin is what the internal after bracing and subwoofer volume needs to be. Pick your two limiting sides and then bulid the third dimension of the box to take up that space.