///M5

Hey Kent, good to see you perusing the board. How are things?

Pi*r*r*L is the volume calc for a cylinder. (area of a circle times height) Sonotubes are probably the easiest thing to find.

Ah, sucks that the receiver isn't flexible enough. I play the upright bass and am probably a bit more trained into localizing low frequencies than the average listener. I must say I love the ratio of speaker to tv!

Depends on the application a bit. Personally I like a single 12, but high level listening isn't something I do.

No troubles. Glad we could help. If you get some "real" mains at home, you might start to like your subs crossed lower there. The reason for the THX recommendation is that they assume that your mains are something like the chitty bose cubes and can't make any rumble down low. Generically speaking it is always better to play your run your subs as low in frequency as the rest of your system can support (assuming that you want a nice FR and aren't just looking for peak volume at any frequency). There is one other thing that 3 way is outstanding for and that is having a near point source for most of the frequencies in the listening range. Until you have heard a full range single speaker setup play the piano, or female vocals, or other natural music it is hard to understand how much more real it can sound to have a single source playing the really localizable audible range. If you are really into staging it can be amazing while keeping your FR clean. A pet peeve that I have with some peoples tunings in their cars si that they only worry about the stage at the expense of keeping the music natural. Either way enjoy what you have and if you get the urge post away!

I can't help with the steering control portion, never cared to keep it but someone might be able to hop in. To really help it would be good to know speaker locations as well as what sizes you are limited to for both the tweeter and mid. Preference in type of tweeter (metal or textile) as well.

I prefer to use a parametric to solve the frequency response issues that are intrinsic to the install, but the graphic to tune down the overexcited parts of the drivers.

You could but I would usually just recommend going IB if they are a MB or playing midbass as usually the enclosure has to be a bit large and it is not so easy to put it in a car. Aperiodic is another option.

Not fair for you to post pics of something that cute. I can't have one....yet.

Glad to see you have something from my home town, well originally anyway. MinnKota >> others when it comes to weeds

Yeah I was looking at the rear and thinking it would look nice shaved, but that's alot of money and it'll do for now. I'm still trying to figure out the stance. Because the wheels have such a low offset, they won't tuck and I don't want to go too far and be rubbing... -John Looks great, what are you using that is adjustable?

They look more like real control arms than I imagined they would. (not your work GM's)

top and almost a successful apostrophe in every word sentence

BP? what's happenin' cap'n?

Just get a cigar trimmer and roll it around slowly until it fits in, either that or be smart and just buy a size wire that makes sense as 8 is stupid overkill and this of course is coming from the king of overkill.

If you are off by too much not only will it change the output but you will hear it huff air. I really, really despise the sound of port chuffing.

Then pay someone to do it. Buying premade wires isn't going to help you a whole lot. Another option (i.e. what I did on my truck) is that you can run a piece of string from connection point to connection point. Run it a bit loose since it won't be 1/0 string and then go to your local welding supply store and have them make you 1/0 with connectors on the end for the exact length of wire that you need. I am concerned that if you are trying to get rid of the "me factor" in doing the simplest part of an install that perhaps you should be paying someone to do the whole thing.

You can't control your stock changer with a headunit, it won't do it. Does your $1500 budget include everything (wiring, deadening, wood for box, drivers amps etc.)??

I might still go on the lake, but instead of bass it will be for bottle bass. Equally as good, but my stomach still needs a bit of time from yesterdays "catch".

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Nope, not even close. You need 1/0 minimum, but I might go bigger. Your power wires to your amps distro block better be as well otherwise you really shouldn't even come close to trying to run your amps.

I agree, one 4" would be way too small. A single 6 has more area than 2 4's, not by much but it would definitely be a better solution.

75wx2 is not 200w rms, the published specs from Flakko I would believe considering his relationship with JR.

Personally I don't think the Poly's have any place in a 3way and nor do the XT25. If you are going to do it get a true midbass driver, a true mid, and a tweet that really can fill in the upper range. IMO adding another driver to what you have now will not help at all and in all likely hood probably make things worse. A 3 way would be the bomb though.

Remind me in a month or so after I move and I will gladly measure one for you with our scanning laser vibrometer and show you the difference. I have been meaning to write up a flexing tech paper for the technical section, but until I have a garage back I can't whack out any enclosures. The difference is huge. If you think we are splitting hairs I encourage you to go onto a home audio website and look at one of their sub enclosures, huge baffles and TONS of bracing. I already admitted huge enclosures will see this problem I am talking most sane daily driver boxes in vehicles, which now that I look, the OPs may not fit this category. BTW I have always used MDF just for peace of mind. I have had friends with single 12" tuned enclosures made from fine particle board and I seen no flex difference with the eye. When an enclosure reaches a certain size then flex will come and the integrity of the material becomes increasingly important. Even MDF is gonna flex at certain lengths. Which is the reason for so much bracing in home enclosures. I'd be very interested in the reading though if you ever do get that chance to do the testing. Sounds interesting. Until then, I will continue to use MDF to avoid TCAB style flames You missed applied my word huge, I was referring to huge baffles and probably should have used the word thick. With a 15" BL you should be running at minimum a 1.5" baffle IMO, I personally would probably run a 2.25" with a TON of bracing. Of course, the BL period is not for me. By the way, "not seeing" flexing is a really funny statement. Your eyes (everyones) suck at this sort of thing and couldn't see it even if it is grossly moving. You have to realize that if you box happens to have a baffle with 4x the area of your sub and moves just a little bit it will significantly alter your frequency response. In particular for frequencies that don't require your sub to move a ton. I have definitely heard enclosures where there was nearly as much sound emanating from the enclosure walls instead of the sub itself. If you want any sort of reasonable frequency response this will defeat that and sound like chit. Particle board is really weak stuff and will most definitely do this. Oh and my little Rli8 with only 250w in a 3/4" (it was temp) baffle .4cuft box was able to flex the baffle and side walls. As to your comment about not taking advice from the board, if you have already made up your mind at what you are going to do perhaps you shouldn't be asking people on a board for advice. Pretty stupid to ask something, get an answer that is uniform from everyone responding and then ignore it. Especially when there is a lot of very well car audio educated people on this board in particular. Obviously stupid to ignore good advice in particular when you asked for it. To the OP, since your box doesn't fit it gives you a chance to actually do it right. IMO you should try to get as much internal volume as you can get up to the manufacturers specs, I am sure it will make you happier. And if you do decide to do this with particle board again, I am with NeonR and will say don't bother updating your thread here or posting again as ignoring everyone here again is something that will not benefit the board and is better left to places with only drama and bs like caraudio.com