///M5

indeed they did Too bad that most of them will get installed like chit. indeed and sad that i may only do one or two sets around here as noone in the area seems to like spending any kind of money what are they charging for them?

A design, and some research. This is research silly.

indeed they did Too bad that most of them will get installed like chit.

what are you procrastinating on?

Is that just hop posts?

How old is that list??

Shut off the idiot box then, you don't have to watch.

who? I haven't caught his real name yet, we are still talking about me coming down. He liked the speaker choices you made for me though, he was very impressed . His user name on CA.com though is xplicitACTS. I saw his work over at diymobile working on his civic and I was very impressed with his door pods. I can't find his name over at diymobile anymore to link you to his thread, he must use a different name over there. I just spent like 10 minutes going through the install section. It's a black honda civic hatchback if I remember correctly. How about his name on diyma, I could give a fuck less about ca.

indeed we shall see what i can conjour up You haven't modeled it yet have you... no sire i have not i had planned to get on it tomorrow if work was slow IIRC .02cuft without cabin gain ok i just modeled it up.....i dont think i can get it in there inverted thanx to the throw Now you understand my first statement

I really think it is an installation issue with the 8's. Sealing off the front and back waves is completely necessary for IB. Before spending any money I would give that a shot. Step number 2 would be to replace the 4 8's with 4 other 8's that actually can do what you want all the time. Why fight with a box when you don't need to? Perhaps since you already have a baffle you could slap a pair of 15's IB on it instead as well. You currently have nearly the perfect alignment for a car stereo setup and you want to go away from it

Jim I can think of a couple reasons for not going 5 chn. It will change the need from 5chn to 11chn of amplification, create an active crossover issue as it is also a lot of channels, and since it is a dorm room it is small and quite frankly with any sort of budget I'd rather apply it to the mains and ignore the other 3 chn anytime.

Then they will make more. This is a marketing strategy not a one time offer. Even if they are done manufacturing who cares, some other company will fill the void left when they are gone. Not like you are the first person to buy these either. They have been forum boners places for months.

Frequency response and crossover points aren't the same... Not sure why this is tough, it should be very simple. Make yourself a cd with tones on it. Pick the frequency that you want for your crossover and play that tone. Turn your crossover freq adjustment until you hear it get softer and you are set. If you don't like the integration with the rest of your system at that point use a different frequency either higher or lower depending on what you want to do. Lots of good headunits, but I have never used the pause function on any of them so I can't help there.

que not = grill. I guess Virginia is in the North.

or perhaps a bit of a de de de manuver

All sorts of "phuck the customer" activity. You won't find anyone on most car audio boards that will buy from them (except Icix since of course they own it). The owner is a dick and doesn't support the product post sale at all. It is a complete shame. Run away from the eD crap and get something else. Even if it isn't from a manufacturer on this board, I would look elsewhere. There are a lot of amps that will do the power you desire.

Two questions. 1) what crossover are you planning on using? 2) what is your budget for the tweeters? A side note. I would worry more about the pre-amplifier than the amplifier. Again if you need recommendations a budget would be helpful.

I'd expect the Rlp18 to wallop the Brahma. Port it and enjoy!

And how many average Joe systems hae you heard that do what you ask? None. 1500w would be a bare minimum and really pushing it. As for the PPI comment on quality, there are a ton of options that will exceed what you currently have. As well as it is just a sub amp. Perhaps you are starting to see that you aren't asking for reality and therefore it is pretty impossible to help you. The first thing you need to do is get off the computer and go listen to some setups. If you like the Type R components you will be easy to please as they are one of the worst sounding sets I have heard in the past few years. Loafing around on the net isn't going to help you understand what you really want, driving around town and listening to different things will. Beware your wallet.

mr420 has been hittin' the pipe. You don't need any rear speakers and in fact they would defeat your first goal completely, assuming that it actually is a real goal. What you do need is a nice set of components in the front, a good detailed install, and a subwoofer and amplifier. In an SQ setup the sub is the LEAST important part, the rest isn't. Considering your age and most likely your goals I'd go with a big ported box. If it is "too" much you can always swap it out later real easily with a sealed enclosure.

I am having a really hard time understanding how 4 8's can't really overpower your front stage.

who?

indeed we shall see what i can conjour up You haven't modeled it yet have you... no sire i have not i had planned to get on it tomorrow if work was slow IIRC .02cuft without cabin gain

morning

The old switches were way off and not accurate enough to use and were a useless tool requiring a test tone cd to setup. *side note 122hz would make me sick, hell playing up to 60hz bothers me You say you have hearing loss in one of your ears, but you can still set it by ear. The advice was to use a test tone at the frequency that you want and to keep turning it down until you hear a change. If you can hear it in the first place you can hear it change. I agree with the rest. Amps should be gain blocks and gain blocks alone all of the other stuff they put on them add cost for no reason as they aren't necessary, especially when adding a little circuit to the chip in a headunit adds no cost at all. In your case I wouldn't buy an external eq but a headunit that worked. I find it funny that you are mad at amps crossover capabilities in the thread, but the only reason you need them is your headunit is broken.