///M5

Power handling will be pretty proportional to how low you expect any of them to play. I'd still pick the ones that sounded the best to me with some dynamic capability. Of course his needs and mine might be a bit different.

moved to a more appropriate spot: mmray would be your best bet for cacti info.

glad your friend is doing better Kader

especially if your clone was your slave

cloning machine would be sweet

There are no other processors that can be controlled from a screen unit. The H701 is a great processor for its crossover/time alignment/ and eq options as well. It comes off on Alpine's site as a 5 channel processor for movies and such but the reality is that in nearly all of its installations it is there exclusively to be used as a method of running speakers actively instead of with passive crossovers. Almost all of the tuning features that you need are included with it as well. All other processor options will have to have a separate control and none interface with a screen very well. The solution above is extremely well integrated and if you just want a bigger screen I would imagine you could add another (note, I am not a screen guy so I just assume 310 has an extra vid output) The Pioneer P9 will do about the same thing without the screen, but with the screen changing settings is all that much easier. As for your comment on the Mac mini integration, I personally feel the opposite and will be using a PC in my next install. The Mini just doesn't have the availability of the whole pro audio world to give you a good sound card or software that works well with it. I can deal with the crashing for functionality.

*yelled like a thundercat

"deleted" my first thread I HAVE THE POWA!

You don't have 20 posts and you cannot sell outside the classified forum, if for some reason you feel you have more posts than shown and deserve to be able to sell these please PM one of the mods.

This morning you get to drop the captains log. Not sure it will mkae you feel any better though.

Yes, I'm aware of that, and those facts are weighed in. Please explain. Huh? What, exactly, do you mean? I know all about voltages, resistances, and such, I am an Electronics Technician in the US Navy. My Bostons have a fairly low efficiency rating (90db) and are 3 Ohm while the Infinity Kappa 60.7CS ar 2Ohm with a 95db efficiency. The Infinity's ar rated at 2.83v/1m while the Bostons are 1w/1m. Those are within a db of each other in the real world. So, my point is I want speakers that are high TRUE efficiency while also being 2Ohm so I can get MAXIMUM output with the equipment I have. Thank you for elaborating. There is no such thing as what you ask for. You will find no benefit from going from an 8ohm driver to a 2ohm, but the opposite in fact which of course Jim has already outlined.

Have you checked your grounds with a DMM and tried different RCA's?

We have had this discussion both publicly and in PM's. To be fair you should really hold up your end of the conversation and listen to it just once the other way. Since you haven't how can you be in a place to recommend otherwise. Outbreaks like the above are not acceptable.

I'd say lacking is an understatement, too bad too since the tweeter is stellar.

Which of course is why I asked you to post impedance plots of both drivers. It would allow you to see this yourself. If you do plug them in together on the same amplifier and it sounds good to you, well the only way I can put this is you are as tone deaf as cdtjones but in my mind actually worse since the effects on a midbass are much greater than that of a sub. There will be HUGE inconsistencies in the FR of the two drivers playing together on one amplifier. Your whole goal of efficiency now goes out the window since you are now limiting yourself to really just be driving the more efficient driver. If the drivers aren't identical you cannot have good results connecting them to the same channel of an amplifier period. I agree with Jim as well. If you don't want advice, why ask for it? I know I have encouraged you to keep posting and still will as I find it entertaining, but I am really questioning why you spend so much time in this hobby if you really don't want to learn. You are on boards all the time, but all of the advice that is given goes in one ear and out the other. I have heard some setups with B&C drivers that will rip your head off and sound good doing it but by no means were they just arbitrarily chosen and slapped together with some amplification. Pro audio drivers are much harder than car audio drivers to get to sound good, but will do it at a higher level. Your problem is you latch onto one fact and stick with it, in your case it is efficiency but you ignore the rest. The end result is you spending way too much money to make something sound bad that for less could be louder and sound better. I will say the worst part is you still think your right which is readily obvious from your posts. Please for once listen and absorb responses instead of just getting defensive. If you are getting advice locally from someone I would tell you to completely start ignoring the noob you are talking to and give people who actually know what they are doing the chance to help you.

You must have ignored his post and quest for SQ, he didn't ask for output.

Welcome!

Welcome onboard and nice gear!

Great idea mang!

If you want processing and a screen the Alpine solution is pretty much the only one unless you go carpc. Everything else is a toy or has an interface problem in comparison.

Welcome.

Had you stated that in the original post in the thread, everyone would have said nope not for you. It is for SQ integration purposes only pretty much and do realize that SPL and SQ are polar opposites in that what you do to get one compromises the other.

I'd also do a console, but a sealed 10 would of course be a lot easier. If you are an output sort of guy you will have to give something up.

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Don't shoot me for not "remembering"/ Happy Berfday!