///M5

It is in my garage, not on my face

diyma

The amp is a better long term own than the pre-amp btw

Both worth about $100, but I expect the pre-amp to go for $125

wish I would have started Gore tonight

What do u personally use for mids? See under the distracting women in my sig...realizing it is only what I have in their right now.

Something tuned to your cars response.

Are you sure you are opposed to metal tweets? My assumption from your comments is that you might like them... Are you opposed to underlapping a bit? Considering your design goals, I personally would lean that way. Something with some serious midbass and then riding a tweeter for the top. The difficulty of course is getting a tweeter that can play really low and still be small format (well at least and cost effective) isn't so easy. The Seas Metal Neo is cheap, doesn't give you that "horrible distortion" sound you are describing and will play fairly low (the less power the lower of course). Considering you only have an amplifier crossover, I'd choose the paper cone Mli over the Poly. I think if you cross the Neo at 2500hz and the Mli from around 1200hz. You at worst lose a half an octave doing that but gain a bunch of power handling, your other option is to spend a bit more dough on the tweeters.

Sounds like a coil with a discontinuity. I assume that it is fluctuating on the high side of things? Most likely you need a recone.

They are midbass machines.

You need to take a major step back....and perhaps start a new thread. No one can give you any advice without information like: type of car sonic preferences music choice headunit amplifier deadening your install capabilities and lots of other information, otherwise it is just a subjective response not founded in helping you actually put somethign together

You replaced a great headunit with a crap one and a good amp with a junky piece. The difference you are hearing is all in those changes.

Is everything else in the signal path the same?

yay, internet is back

You will need to custom mount them in the A-pillars as well (either the small format or large) considering this I find a kick much easier to build than a pillar.

By not sounding as good what is it doing differently?

Or just get an XM6 and not have to use the dumb chip

And it shows blank when you touch the leads of the sub?

Currently trying to decipher between: Viking, Wolf, DCS, Fire Magic, Lynx, Cal Flame, Barbeques Galore -I prefer stainless grates, cast stainless or cast brass burners, 48" of cooking surface length and a built in *also looking for a dual side burner/griddle but that can be separate preferably

I just want to touch and feel some. The price on them vary from $1200 - $6000 depending on all sorts of stuff and I have no idea how to choose. Currently looking for a built-in style so that I can integrate it into an outdoor kitchen.

Damn, all the cool grill stores are in Texas.

You need to do 3way?

just depends on how high u turn it,just gotta use it wisely,its impossible to keep a class d from clippin completly Not impossible at all. Either way boost is bad.

Personally I'd mount them as close to your mids as possible. Pretty hard for us to understand what you are trying to do though as we don't even know what kind of car it is or any of your listening preferences.

No eq should be used for boost either, only cuts.