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Everything posted by ///M5
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1st -- you can raise your seat 3/4" by just setting the brackets on mdf blocks. This will help some, otherwise I see about 2cuft of space being possible total. This area has to include the port volume, box internal volume, and sub volume. Personally I think upfiring is the easiest to fit under your seat as there is some space into the interior of the seat it can easily fire into. After this, you sort of have to choose an overall port area. The port length is inversely proportional to the area meaning the more port area the longer the port. At that point it becomes a game of playing with the numbers to make sure that it fits on the inside of your box. Less port area could mean port noise, but most definitely a shorter port.
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especially when you're the one flying the plane Hair of the dog, hair of the dog.
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I haven't been to Ottawa in a while, the last time I was there I got a stripper fired
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*assumes that was sarcasm
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For HT you are going to want to tune really low, somewhere in the 12-15hz range. As for enclosure size, I have no personal experience building a box for the xxx so I will refrain from recommending but will say with that much power you may need to downsize from the norm a bit.
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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=312114
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Kent, This is the style of measurement that I would propose to explain the enclosure differences: Coupled with an acoustic response. FYI: That is a VW Passat at 51Hz, a little free panel gain at that frequency eh?
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Of course, it would be good to hang out with you in my neck of the woods. To do a physical measurement of the flex though I will have to do it out of vehicle, perhaps in my basement although I'd prefer to do it free-field so we could compare acoustic response along with the physical without having to subtract out any room/cabin gain. Our other option would be to quickly build another box. I imagine the two of us could whack something out rather quickly and I'd be glad to volunteer the $15 for mdf.
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Really, I have no idea. I got that error when I "edited" your post. Curious if it would work with my wimpy mod powers compared to your super ones.
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Not really sure either, I only know since I tried to do it for you as well
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To put it simply, it makes the response peaky and of course you know that isn't my thing. Sometime in the next 6 months I will do a measurement on a good box and some thin wood thing and post the differences in the tech section. I would do it sooner, but won't have access to a vibrometer locally for at least 2 months and I also don't have any underbuilt boxes to measure. I didn't refrain to not help anyone learn, but my reasoning was that it still may not be a concern of yours or more importantly in this case the OP. It all depends on your expectations and goals of a system. As you know I tend to lean WAY towards the SQ side so me stating that it wouldn't be okay for dropkick isn't fair as I don't really know what he is looking for although I expect he will be fine with a slightly peakier response in particular if it means more output from other posts of his that I have read. In this case your solution very well may be viable, but of course if possible I would still try to make things more structural.
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your database is teh fucked
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hmm, lack of editing powa for Kent. boo.
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Enjoy, curious to see how Jamal responds on the other side of the field. It ought to be an interesting game.
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I need to make my tc10 happier! What are some good amps??
///M5 replied to rex_runner's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Your goals aren't very realistic. -
Agreed. I don't normally like doing stuff like that, but in this case it definitely helps.
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*refrains from commenting
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Nice work!
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And of course in a case like this, your install is going to be significantly more important than the details on exactly what equipment you buy.
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Saweet. Same thing happened when I met the w.
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please be a gent and add end and start edits when being a whore.
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06 Silvy, E/C -- sub, something with some oomph.
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flesh, flesh, flesh