///M5

That would defeat the purpose. I did say "I could". I want the 2.8 to be faster and generally don't mind cropping to get the zoom to 200 for most of the shooting I do with it. Of course it may make me get a new body if I did that too... The zoom for sporting events however is critical. I need big whitey for at least another year before I could decide if I could really make that trade.

Merry Christmas everyone! And good luck in your fantasy superbowls!

ANything slightly modern allows easy connection via wifi to your phone. I review my pictures on my phone instead of the camera since the screen is bigger...

With a child your surroundings turn into a mess. Biggest cure in a picture is for the mess to be blurred

And if you get crappy glass you won't use it, get good glass and you'll have friends asking you to shoot their kids too.

Problem with a 50mm on a crop is that you have to get too close to the target and they see you ( fine for babies ) but once you get to 70mm sometimes the house is too small to get far enough away. The 70-200 (40-150 mirrorless) buys you a lot of flexibility in that regard but is really better suited to a full frame. The sigma crop is real interesting but you need image stabilization (at long reach)nd it doesn't have it. I could easily and happily replace the big whitey with an 85 and a 200, but that would cost me more dough and not less. The zoom is mostly useful to me for sneak pics and at ball games chasing the kiddos.

Not really. The shit glass sure but stuff worth buying is about the same.

I like the Fuji glass options best in that domain

Mirrorless is your answer. Fuck p&s as the lack of interchangeable lenses is teh dumb

Post above. Phones are completely useless for babies.

You need FAST glass to get pictures of babies. Phones suck donkey dick for that.

Easy to understand if you ignore the single specification of Sd and instead focus on what is important for the box design. Of course your math is off too. 480 cm2 * 2 << 1210 cm2 It is easy enough to design a woofer for a small box, but you aren't getting around Hoffman's law if you do. Just because there are drivers on the market that do this doesn't make them good. Pick your own compromises, stop using brands to do it for you.

If you assume the idiot* case, it will be fine. (32-1.5)*(32-1.5)*2(18-1.5) = 15,349 cubic inches /1728 = 8.8cuft - driver - port From Webstereos Dictionary *idiot [id-ee-uh t] noun: 1. Informal. an utterly foolish or senseless person: If you think you can wear that outfit to a job interview and get hired, you're an idiot! 2.Psychology. (no longer in technical use; considered offensive) a person of the lowest order in a former and discarded classification of mental retardation, having a mental age of less than three years old and an intelligence quotient under 25. 3. Average member of SMD; outspoken, but clueless. Typical behavior shown by cutting every corner possible to fit the next size up sub in their car, but calculates and fails miserably. Post install behavior is usually sad remorse followed by relentless bragging on car audio forums on how great their garbage is. ... I will assume you are not that guy and while the moron above will only use under 2cuft, you should use much more.

Beware speaker level inputs in modern cars. Can be horribly processed. I would measure the output across the frequency range I was going to use first.

Overkill is not always better. I'd first measure your voltage and see how low it is. You may just have sensitive headlights....aftermarket bulbs are notorious for that. With only 500w the stock battery and nearly stock wiring should be fine. It is always good to beef up the weakest link in the chain, but no reason to spend a crap ton on wiring that you don't need. 1/0 is way overkill.

First thing I would do is verify that the outputs are doctored. I've seen quite a few American cars where all the processing occurs after the headunit and therefore just splitting the wires is enough.

I knew you were confused, but wow, had no idea it was that bad. Gross Box Volume = Net Volume + the area the whole port takes up. The port area and volume is determined by TUNING and AREA. You CANNOT estimate anything in a ported box without it. Completely pointless. Of course to get the right area you need to know power and listening desires. You need to spend a lot more time helping us understand your needs before we can help you. It is really hard to spoon feed someone without a spoon.

Pretty sure the whole reason for his thread was so he could bitch. Status quo for BJ.

Your question is akin to I need a car, which should I buy. Some background is necessary. If you want a question answered then ask a question....although for someone with how often you holler in on things here you should be able to answer this in your sleep.

One other hint for you. No one here is paid. The Tech Team label is given to people on here who help and don't mislead. It isn't a job, just a name. You'll get your help, you just have to want it and to share info needed so you can be helped.

Your insecurity is disgusting. For all the "advice" you try to give, step 1 is seemingly lost. So far you typed a book but told us: 32x32x18 FI BTL and NO other information that would let us help you. You NEED to choose your own compromise. Acceptable port velocity will determine what size box you can fit in 32x32x18.

You can use a 32x32x18 ...although considering you are asking it may be best to mock up the max box from cardboard.

Sort of related

Hey wait, are you trying to give me pink eye?

More seriously I like the idea