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Everything posted by ///M5
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Stuck? That sucks. ...as does the Outback, but there are not really good options down there either.
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Out of the 10 people that work for me there, 3 lost power. Nutso weather.
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MJs ruin other glasses
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Just a spot here to keep his off topic thread dumping away from other threads. As always we refuse to delete, but it is annoying so the idiocy will be moved into here.
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Man those are sexy mids...no way I could cover them with a grill.
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14 pages of wasted time. boo. Guess he isn't helpable
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BJ's moronic off topic ramblings and the associated corrections were moved here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/72282-billy-jack-thread-dumping-thread
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when I'm doubt go conservative and ramp it up with shoes, loud shirt and tie.
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We haven't had that all year.
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Tweeters with balls are easy to implement with anything...but it doesn't always mean they will mate the best. Install what you have, let's conquer making them sound as good as they can and then move forward wtih a replacement based on what they don't do well. The Evil tweeter should dig pretty low too and there are others. I run a Scan D2904/60001 but they are uber expensive and while awesome arent' worth the price for an in car installation.
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You bastards. We have windchill of -15F, but no fucking snow.
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If you would read what you typed before you hit submit it would help. Here is what most people on the forum read: Sad since you obviously didn't mean that...but it is what you typed. You clarify after, but it doesn't explain why you would say that. You could have said something like the tires wouldn't be a problem if she changed her gears and no one would have called out the idiocy. Type, read, re-read, re-read then hit submit. Will REALLY help.
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Clipping lights don't work, don't trust them.
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It is just to prevent backfeeding voltage. I've never seen a h/u or 12v device fail because one wasn't there...but am sure now that I type that I will. Easy enough to add a diode.
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I've run my Scan Speaks down to 1200Hz at quite high volumes. Going below 3k should be no problem
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Yes. ANY unusual smell is bad. There is nothing fragrant about a car stereo...or at least there shouldn't be. Your arbitrary 1/4-1/2 gain to be conservative is not conservative at all. If it is distorted you are overdriving/clipping or the like which is most likely the cause of the smell. Keeping going as you have it could end up being expensive.
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I should add that you should fuse the power line to the relay, that I also usually just pull from the amp power source.
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It is such low current I don't worry about either a block or fuses. Of course I put the relay right next to what needs to be turned on. If you fuse a single fuse for all the leads is fine right next to the relay.
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You shouldn't make assumptions like that, makes you look even less educated. Are you just looking to further embarrass yourself? Would be a pointless waste of my time, I have nothing to prove to you.
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Believing you know something you don't understand won't get you very far in anything. Obvious you have that difficulty, stop rationalizing it and instead try to learn.
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If you truly were trying to say that you didn't time align anything for either person when I typed this: All you had to do was ignore it or just say something like, "yep, was for the center not the passenger or the driver". Both would have yielded no further response. The clarfication I posted wasn't for your dumb ass, but for the OP. Stop thinking threads are for you or me or entertainment, but instead think of how the OP reads them.
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I didn't change anything, this is verbatim what you said: I am changing nothing, you said, "If both passengers leaned to the middle on the arm rest the time alignment was almost right" And that is absolutely absurd. It wasn't almost right, not even close. Worse that you surely implied to the OP that it was right. This is the problem. That is terrible "advice" and when I pointed that out you blew a fucking gasket. Rather obvious you are trying to extend an argument from before versus understanding what it actually means.
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Ah. I would be more worried about constricting them in too small of an enclosure than aiming them. Venting the enclosure aperiodically may be a way to gain breathing room and might let them play nice below 80Hz. Is the 3kHz just because the driver "can" play that high? Considering the placement of the mids, I'd want the tweeter to play significantly lower than that. Obviously for the time being ignore that statement, but long term the more you get up on the dash the better.
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They should have Bosch relays near you. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-332019150-Relay/dp/B0010ADJIE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1489003727&sr=8-3&keywords=bosch+relay there are generic ones that can be fine, but I've had the same Bosch relay in one of my cars since 1987 and it is still working perfectly. I've had generic ones fail in the first year. I am sure you can find one locally cheaper than the link, but that should be fine. You surely don't need 40A btw. It is just a low voltage remote turn on.