///M5

The prv is loud and crappy sounding. Terrible as a midbass and terrible as a mid range. Does lower midrange loud and anyone that says differently is tone deaf. Not saying it isn't loud but you have to be VERY particular about what drivers you mate with it....even then I would never use it in a car.

PRV Mid and Evil will not mate nicely...if you are going 3 way there are way better routes. Real question comes down to space and processing...

That trip is Nov 5th for the Tommy Emmanuel show

July 4-14

And yes, you picked out one of my major problems with the Pio. That and you can't remove the producer tag from the screen even if the tag is blank (yes all my tags are "right" and I don't bother with anything other than year, artist, album, song)

A few. Completely different processor and such to speed things up. I am concerned on their "limits" on the hard drive. Claims 1TB but only 15,000 files. Wondering if that is a true limit or just they thought no one would have more songs than that. ....I have over 50k

I have 9 of them atm...

I am definitely not a fan of the RE's...but I am also not much of a component guy as I either run active or build my own passives. I wanted to respond though since midbass is much more of a function of install than drivers. Sure you need to start with something reasonable, but the install makes a way bigger difference. Others may have insight into budget components, personally I'd like to hear what I was going to buy...

2ohm components on the same amp at 2ohms won't be louder than the 4ohm versions on the same amp at 4ohms. Most likely they will sound worse too. More clearly said, 2ohm components are marketing nonsense and should be avoided pretty much at all costs.

Which Kenwood do you have Randal?

For 1/3 the price and exactly the same functionality you can use miniDSP's.

Which Pio do you have? I don't like the monster fonts on the Kenwood, but am seeing whatever I buy as a stop gap until things are better integrated. 3 years ago when I built my car pc DD head units were super antiquated in their capability, but finally can do most of what I need.

Carputer going bye bye.

Alpine X208u is $1500 so no fucking way. Pioneer NEX are absurdly restricted when it comes to playing back off a hard drive

Contemplating buying a Kenwood headunit. WTF???

They were built too small to sit on the dash of my sisters Chaparral. As big as they could be. We compensated in the boat with a higher tuned enclosure. Good to see you stop in btw!

I have some crappy "truck boxes" I built a while back that are a bit too small for some Kicker components as garage speakers. Just using a miniDSP that is laying around to clean them up. Couple parametric suck outs and a shelf filter to normalize the response and blend it with the sub better.

Do you understanding dampening at all? Yikes to the irrelevant "data" and videos. Your statement was that it was as good as CLD, show us...not that it is better than an untreated cymbal, lol. I thought you were a huge improvement to the Ant idiot, please don't disappoint us. Btw, I am not the one with an opinion, I measure structural resonances for a living.

It isn't, but your goals and reality don't match. Stock wires won't support much if any amount of upgrade. If you can't find details on the processing a ton of your budget will be chewed up by removing the electronic nonsense Ford included, then add the box and your budget is gone wiithout discussing the amplifier or sub. Just meant to be a reality check.

Then you are budget strapped. No real solution that will be feasible, a worthwhile improvement for $600.

Are you building or buying a box?

The real question is what signal is going to the stock amps. Most are highly doctored signals to deal with the fact they are using cheap OEM amplifiers and drivers. If this is the case you really can't just use the stock wiring and swap anything out. Could be even worse if it is using a CAN bus to the amp in that case there is no signal you have that you can use. As a first test you could pull the wires off the sub and send a bunch of test signals through the sub. If they all have the same amplitude you would at least then have a high level signal you could put into a LOC to add an amplifier and sub/s. Since you are budget constrained it would be good to understand what the budget might be as it could greatly change what you could do.

Fixored

I would like a DDD or triple because I have a big ass vertical hole. Using a 10" monitor in portrait atm. My biggest concern is usability and a GUI that doesn't look feel old. Navigation I do on my phone as well...but would prefer to be able to Android Auto it if possible. Other things I want: PowerAmp (once they add it to Android Auto), being able to FF, RWD and such both music on my phone and apps like Pandora. Preferably with the steering wheel. Have a backup camera for connecting the trailer and make bluetooth calls. The more control of my phone from the steering wheel the better. I've tried to watch demo's online and stopped in a few stores to play with them but most have no antennas, no USB connected and only offer the lower lines for demo. In other words pointless. I love and HATE car audio. Aargh.

Btw, it is not conventional to show damping across all frequencies as no structure resonates across all frequencies in a way that makes it measureable, but if you claim it works just as well as CLD then you should actually show what it is doing mechanically or at least use a self generating structure with a calibrated forcing function. Real units would be expected as well. Measurements of both structures before and after as well. It is REALLY easy to screw this test up and draw false conclusions. The loss function you show is also a misnomer as the word loss implies transmission/absorbance and not damping. Pretty unrelated; however, I can only imply what a scientist would from seeing the plots as there is no text describing the experiment actually done. I can tell though that it was done by someone who didn't understand the ramifications or results that they were testing.