///M5

I haven't looked in 4 years. Huge difference. I expect the releases in 17 to be finally the ones worth peaking at...which means I'll buy something temporary that I'll have for at least 2 years, lol. Some key things they can do now, they couldn't when I last looked. -full gauges reading your CAN bus -audio out up front and independent video/audio for the rear seat -supports more than my 46,000 songs on an HDD (JVC does, waiting for a yes from Kenwood tech) and the ability to organize/play them by folders instead of just other tags -Kenwood has it's own GPS antenna for use with Carplay/AA. Otherwise my gps fails in my cup holder... -Control your phone...although you better have an Android if you want to use it. The Apple Carplay solution is garbage. -Screen covering the whole opening. Almost there on this. I can surely live with my external volume knob (nearly free with the minidsp's) and the steering wheel control. Prefer it in fact. I am concerned over the flexibility I am losing with the customized steering wheel controls I had on the car pc, but I'll get used to it. -Capacitive touch display with pinch on maps...not Carplay ones though -> the two things it is missing are to control my miniDSP for tuning and running HP Tuners to talk to the ECU. Both are REALLY hard to use on a touchscreen only though and require high resolution screens which in portrait are tough to find. The ones you can are dim. I won't miss having to have a full on contrast display for my coloring.

Welcome to 2015 lol. Android Auto and real hardrive control are what I was waiting for.

Not even close

3/4 MDF or VOID free Birch ply are the defacto standards. With either I would double up on the baffle and also use bracing. If you want to overkill 1" MDF can surely be used, but the bracing/doubling above is more than adequate.

Holy crap, catching up to me. HBD Mang!

If someone hacks the touchscreen from the 10" Ipad and makes a windows driver for it, I'll switch back to a pc. Sammy 10" fine too...but no one seems to want to and overlay touch screens work like crap for me.

I already have a volume knob on the dash, the rest can be steering wheel, voice, or touchscreen. No tactile knobs necessary so I would prefer all screen...and an 8"

I like the GUI better on the JVC but the logo, disk slot and smaller screen make it It however has specifications that will allow my music collection. Kenwood's are unpublished. (ie, the manual sucks and so far customer support hasn't been able to clarify. Manual is different than the website too, lol) Pioneer is functionally useless to me. Looks worse, can't deal with shit for music via USB and the Alpine is $2k...although an inch bigger. Pretty sure Pio will fix that this year and the JVC is 2017, where the Kenwood is 2016...but I don't want to wait. Already mounted the installation kit and pulled the carputer today.

Nice! 16 already, holy hell.

ROFL

Gotta figure out how to cut that in half. Guess I am going to turn into a general contractor. Doh!

Motherfucker. Got the bid for my house remodel back....$640k, WTF!

Nothing fwd and European that is worth a shit....or from anywhere.

I have 122 lbs of muscle as well, but that is only because I have one big muscle between my legs that is about 110.

That is awesome Matt!!

Gt3 almost works...but 997.1 and 997.2 Then can't be generations.

The BMW M6 fits the years...but not the 2nd gen is the best as it'd be the worst.

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/nvx-jad800-4-amplifier.html

Is the accessory on power 12v? If so, use that one. If not, an el cheapo Bosch relay connected using the 24v to pass the 12v will work.

Nice work as always! Now TUNE

Without seeing the traces on the other side or measuring you can't. It is also critical to know the actual impedance of the drivers it is for otherwise you also cannot. I would also add it is probably not so relevant either. Reverse engineering a sub-optimal crossover isn't an exercise in using time well. As for the how, if the circuit path is known you can easily model it either by hand or in software to tell you the cross points. The requirements are knowing the impedance of the driver/s, the values of the Inductors, Resistors, and Capacitors and then it is easy enough. The easiest way to know is to connect the drivers and then sweep frequencies while recording them all and find the 3dB point. If you can't sweep an acquire you can play sine tones and keep indexing the sine tone until you find a 3dB point.

Last car we optimized we pulled out more than 30lbs of deadening which was almost half the stock package and still managed to pull out 8dB of panel noise from the car. The previous package that we optimized was developed with a combination of FEA, classic modal analysis with accelerometers, and sysnoise. They wanted to cut cost (imagine that) so they hired us to optimize the placement post design. Huge difference and saves the manufacturer over $100k/mo.

How much space do you have? Music or movies?

Hey, I don't hate rap but I do hate bad rap. One other warning. You were discussing a 3 way before and the 80prs will only do a 2 way. Means without adding more processing you cannot do a midbass, midrange and tweeter. Btw, I also don't expect you want to be in my camp...but I came from yours but am just old now. I would never recommend you do what I do but don't want you to have the growing pains I did either.

What are you using for processing? What is loud to you?