///M5

I do wish my truck would turn from lock to lock. 305's weren't the best idea for that.

Stupid camera has guidelines you can't shut off. Stereo integrates with my CAN bus and shows the bending ones so I'd rather use those.

More GM cheap bullshit. Rear view camera pooped. Checked the wiring and it was the camera. Pull off the Applique in the rear to get it out since it screws in from the top. Everything inside rusty and nasty as hell. Bolts spin in the plastic, but comes off fairly clean. Took the $480 GM camera out, cut it in half, epoxied in a $15 Amazon camera, JB Welded the cleaned up bolts in place on the Applique and am now waiting for it to dry. Trying to decide if I just pull a fresh wire the whole way or splice. Probably take the same amount of time and the thing came with a wire.

I need to redo what is in my boat. Probably will be next spring anyways, but wanted to ask. Already 2 miniDSP's on board

I assume they aren't very marine sealed either because of the phase plug?

What makes it B stock?

Aaron is the phase plug on the Evil mids threaded? ie, any hope for a coaxial mounting of the SSA Evil tweet in the middle?

Sorry, I wasn't super clear. The Seas Neo that you linked USED to be the defacto driver for your sort of application. I generally have a Seas boner, but that driver I am not terribly impressed with. The Evil tweet would be a better choice. As for the mid, I haven't played with the SI TM65s but am generally not interested in trying. Large Xmax drivers playing higher in frequency is something that is far from trivial to design around and the SI crew does not have a ton of engineering measurement capability at their disposal. It is possible the design is fine, but it is also possible it is a wreck. Taking subjective internet reviews as the gospel is also horribly frightening as the average car audio enthusiast can't hear crap. If I were going to spend SI money on the drivers, for your application I would recommend the Seas ER18. There are other drivers that do other things better, but ease of integration into your system is key and that driver is super easy from that domain. (ie, wide and flat frequency response without anomalies). The Evil mid is priced real aggressively for what it is though so you aren't paying Norwegian markup like on the Seas. The CA18 even integrates easier, but you lose some mid clarity that the ER has.

Not a bad idea. The classic budget Seas Neo is better than the drivers in the sets you were looking at and the SSA Evil is more appealing. Other possibilities are more esoteric as you could fit some depth and something larger than the size of a neo tweet, but it is probably way more hassle than gain. Reducing to a 3/4" driver will improve the off axis but raise the crossover point. Starting off without that limitation would be good IMO.

Closer to 30 or 15?

That looks like less than 25deg to me, but it is easiest if you literally point a measuring stick from your ear to the speaker and then see how far off the angle is about.

I'd prefer if you measured. 25 degrees or so is of a degree that can make a big difference. For instance here is a somewhat standard tweeter frequency response. The three curves are 0 degrees, 30 degrees and 60 degrees. In this case you can see that by 10kHz at 30deg you are already down by 3dB on the more off axis tweeter. Different tweeters will have different off axis responses. The difference between 15 deg and 30 deg could easily be a not so nice response versus one that is very easy to tune. Just hold a measuring stick to your ear and tweeter and then try to find the angle. If it is 25 we will just look for a tweeter that is reasonably close to the 0 deg performance off axis and go from there. The reason to pick the tweeter first is that the better off axis response typically means that it won't play as low. If it can't play as low we then need a mid that can play higher. Capability for the drivers to overlap gives you more options in tuning which is helpful for a first install. They very well could be a great solution for you. Definitely an upgrade as compared to the Focals you chose and I would also expect over the Morels. In application the Evil mid is probably also better suited than the Scan-speak Revelator you chose as well. I personally however am not ready to recommend any product until we are sure of the potential install.

Horribly antiquated. It "can" work, but I wouldn't pay more than $10 for one.

Not sure something that intrinsically isn't as good should be a benefit. If you want to be unique, make your system sound good as well as being loud. Regrettably that is unique.

Only worried about the tweeter aiming. Can you estimate how far off axis both the drivers and passengers are? Sounds like you can fit a real mid

And once a frankenstein it is worth nothing used.

8's are generally a somewhat lackluster sub size. Whenever they can be avoided I would try. I feel the same about 10's yet I am running a pair of 10's in my truck so the install defines this. Before doing anything I would figure out exactly what you can fit and plan for the future.

If you can mount a 4" driver, like this one: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ring-radiator-tweeters/vifa-xt25tg30-04-1-ring-radiator-tweeter/ it opens a ton more options. If you cannot, then you are more limited in your choices. The pictures help a ton, thank you. I have a question that I cannot tell from the pictures and that is about how far off axis the tweeters will be? It looks to me like perhaps even 15-30deg at most from both of them. Reason that this is good to know is that we should look for a tweeter that has a nice off axis response for the amount they are off axis. The second parameter I always recommend for a first time active is one that digs as low as possible (low Fs) so that you have a bunch of flexibility. IIRC the lowest logical tweeter crossover on the 80 is 1250 which then getting a tweeter that can play to there could be advantageous. Might be unecessary, but the flexibility gives you more capability to dial it in and the lower it goes the more you can focus on midbass with the mid. Also curious how deep of a baffle you can fit on the mid and if a true 7" driver will fit. This will also open a ton of options.

Didn't know you had an 80. Plenty for a 2 way with a tweeter which makes the sets you were looking at not ideal. The Rev's don't love doors, but are killer drivers. I haven't been in 02 to know what the mounting looks like. Your description helps, but nailing the tweet you can use is where I'd start.

What do you have for processing? ALL of the sets you listed are hugely over priced.

Your mechanical aptitude > mine

Same result was the kit sitting in the box in my garage uninstalled.

Always pick the larger driver

I really appreciate that...but don't want to have the same result that you have had.

Nice find