///M5

Awesome.

Wife and i were emailing back and forth from up to downstairs...I know, healthy relationship. I typed : p and she didn't know I meant

need to steal that gif

H. O. L. Y. Shit! Where to?

Coons keep eating the base of my garage boards as well.

Ha. You have impeccable timing to prove that out too. Hasn't been lately.

Probably has some other Greek name elsewhere since I think that translates to on filo. Chicken, leaks, spinach, feta, phyllo, butter, eggs. Mmm.

Got a double csa share today so lots o veggies

Steaks the night before. Tomorrow I think I am going to make koto sto phyllo to get my Greek fix on

Made pork chow mein with the rest of it tonight. Last night was carbonara with pork belly.

And when they try they fuck up. Sigma art 1.8 50-100mm would be AWESOME on a crop except they forgot image stabilization and the 1.8 makes it as heavy as the 2.8 70-200 netting no savings. I would have loved to have seen it as half the size/weight with IS at only a 2.8. I'd own it then.

Cosmetics, space, luck, and perhaps some testing in said vehicle. I'd bet more the first three than the latter.

And it would allow for a mirrorless solution that is small and optimized for the little lenses. A 50mm for portrait and something wide in fixed and you would be really portable.

Yep, turning prosumer into prosumer instead of bastardized pro.

You can imagine how much smaller you could make a 50-150mm 2.8. That is what I want on my camera almost 90% of the time.

No reason it can't. You'll never replace a full frame, but the prosumer models make no sense to me. Make L lenses for APS and then a small body and you have the best second setup ever. Don't exclude the APS from using full frame lenses as that would be dumb, but build some with proportionally smaller optics surely does. The optics could shrink a ton.

The Seas Neo is usable for sure, but just not exciting. In that price category I personally would be trying the Evil tweets next.

A mirrorless with a real lens isn't so much smaller regrettably...otherwise I'd have one. That is the other statement to make on the mirrorless. Get the biggest sensor you can as that has the most ramifications for light. That being said a full frame sensor in a mirrorless makes no sense as then the lenses are way out of balance for the camera. I really wish someone would get smart and make L class lenses for APS-C and then have them mount on a mirrorless. Come on Canon!!

As for your statement that I always ask about drivers, indeed a good preference is helpful in narrowing things down but you are on a budget, doing a three way, and surely have goals that seem well thought out. As always the install (including tuning) is more important than the driver choice so as long as they have the capability to blend together you are fine. So yes, personally I would spend your money first on the mid, second on the beefiest XBL midbass you can get and then forego spending much on the tweeter.

I really just wanted you to compare the low frequency roll off of what you could achieve with the 4 vs the 3. That is all you can possibly gain and normally the small dash pod squashes it. If you can gain, then by all means but if not then I wanted you to draw the conclusion that works best in your car. Figure I could have just answered but thought that helping you think about it would be helpful. The FF85 is a great little driver. I run the TB W4-1337 as my near field setup at my desk for nearly the same reason. The W4 though requires a ridiculous passive crossover to tame it full range however (IIRC the crossovers were around $250 in passive components alone). Anything off axis and they would still need a tweeter. The other aspect of the 4" driver is the trade off of higher frequency. I know you see that people blow the little ND's, but IMO that is solely due to complete lack of experience. They can take plenty, but when you are looking at a driver that is only playing 6k+ you shouldn't expect that it makes your ears bleed and of course the beauty of the 3 way is that you can control that. Do realize that most people want loud setups. In fact in any blind testing with almost any quality of product the louder one is chosen. Exactly why blind testing is so hard. Obviously drivers that are horribly different in FR can toss the statement out the window. The second sad fact is that most people don't find loud clean setups to sound loud. In other words most people on any audio forum would want to drive their poor tweeter into oblivion so it sounds good to them. This is how you blow a tweeter. Outside of that the other largest reason for blowing a tweeter is not being diligent in checking your crossover settings before turning them up. How you tune has an effect on this as well. You should tune the mids first and get them to do everything you want. Then add the tweets only for filling in what the mids cannot. Expect it to take 30+ hours of listening and adjusting to really dial it in and then you are in the right mindset.

Are you sure you want a 4" driver? I would model it in a little enclosure and compare it to the 3" before doing anything else. Once you've done that we can discuss the rest...

Yep, mirrorless or bust in that regard.

I had the previous version of that driver for a while. I liked the Fountek better, but not by a large margin. Enclosure can surely be a lot smaller. I am trying to have mine play down to 80Hz or so so they need a large ported enclosure. It will still be damn near impossible to build a 4" enclosure on the dash though. I'd have to model the driver to figure out what could make sense, but if you constrict it too much you will gain no midbass over the 3" and the 3 will definitely play nicer up high.

I had no idea they had a funky 5ohm ER. The ER18 is a helluva driver and what my comments were referring to not the bastardized 5ohm thing.

I can wear a helmet in car. No fucking way there is enough headroom. Hell in the Escalade I can't sit up straight. Lucky bastards.