///M5

With the stoker I never open any dampers. Top one is open JUST enough so it can breath. Mine is just a cap that rotates off though so it's probably "open" 1/8" x 1.5" total. Perhaps a bit less. Bottom damper is closed completely by the stoker. Mine overshoots as it heats pretty far. Of course the cure is to put a big cold piece of meat on it and it comes right down. If I set it at 215 it'll hit 240 then come back to 215 within an hour. So instead I just set it lower, let it overshoot and then put on the meat towards the end of the overshoot. Usually a 45min or so process. If I'm lazy I'll just start it a couple hours before I want to use it and let her smoke. Add some fresh wood when the meat goes on and boom.

What was the problem with them to your palate?

Me too. Enough AZ oxidation on the damn boat to make me sick to my stomach. Well not anymore. Whole boat got compounded. Some area's more aggressively than others. Add the swirl, glaze, wax, re-wax, and my body is shot. 23' of fiberglass is not a trivial thing to go through in a day. Cooler is ready for paint as well. Better work BETTER.

Brave man, you stabilize with your food? I always have the fire exactly where I want it before meating it.

How long do you rub your meat for? Only as long as it takes

What I like and what most people like on car audio boards aren't exactly the same. Part of the reason you never see me say, buy this, I love them! Add to that what would work with a 6.5 pa speaker and you are left with even less. I know nothing of the Crescendo's, but a 6.5" a PA speaker is pretty much flat out a midrange. Going to need something high and something low. Of course you can use your sub for something low....assuming they really don't fall flat on their face early. If they are extremely efficient then they will. If they compensated and biased it the other way then it'll fall off fast up high. If it does that and is still lively you are beyond the realm of dome tweeters IMO. If you have to go that route, I may actually shop for something I've never recommended before and that is a tweeter that is larger than 1". You'll lose off axis response but potentially gain some power handling and surely get extension. No matter what you are in huge compromise land. PA gear is always biased towards efficiency over extension and that is a tough compromise in the car audio realm.

Oh, and wipe the buttermilk off before rubbing. All meat pre-rub should be dry.

After I got the kamado injections pretty much died. Necessity for flavor and moisture no longer exists

Hope you make your own rub and it doesn't include salt. Salting that far ahead will not help the texture. As for the buttermilk, that is exactly the goal. You can make your own buttermilk by adding a tbsp of lemon juice to a cup of milk. Goal is to do the opposite of what salting too early does. You should salt before you cook at least 15min but much more than that and you aren't helping the process. I'd rather salt right before hitting the smoker than hours before.

I've seen plenty of readers with one input, especially wireless ones, but I just want one that I can switch between inputs with 4 or so inputs. Stoker. Can have way more than 4 IIRC

Can't you just put more probes in the guru?

Most people do target 225F. It's easier to hold and isn't too hot. My only concern is an over run up to 250 gets bad things happening where an overrun to 235 isn't such a big deal.

225-230 will expedite things 10-15% I'd bet. I never really run that hot though.

Indirect platesetter. If you use fuel you can put a beer/water whatever bath under them. Curious on your time from firing to stabilizing. Are you using a 7in1 tool (or whatever the fuck) to start? Fire time?

215deg 4-6 hours favorite rub before they hit buttermilk overnight never hurts cold as possible when they hit the smoker when the meat recedes or begins to "knuckle" they are pretty much there for me. Should be in 5ish hours and require a little chew, but not significant. I've had some take 7 and some take 3.5 though. Spare's are usually on the longer side than baby's as there is more lip smackin' collagen to break down. If you want them to fall apart....well you really don't.

Not all play as low as PE claims. There have been some quality issues... Not sure if they still exist, but in the beginning it was surely the case. Considering what you are mating them with I wouldn't really say they will play that low either. The more output you need the higher the cross point generically speaking. As for metallic sounding, well of course, they are metal; however, they are really nice tweeters so don't think that is a negative like the cheap metal drivers you've heard in the past.

How fast can you get her to stay within 5deg of 215?

Getting it to slow and low quickly and not over shooting still takes some talent. That did take some figuring out when I got mine, but I've got it pretty well down now, sometimes I wish I had a 5cfm fan for low and slow cooks rather than my 10cfm. Use a 5v power supply for it instead

Getting it to slow and low quickly and not over shooting still takes some talent.

Yep bolts. Isolating it isn't terrible either, but 12lbs is hefty. Personally I'd add more material. Can be wood, can be glass, that doesn't matter just make sue it adds strength

And std free

Part way through my hack job cooler in the boat, lol. Not going to be my best work but it also isnt visible.

First specification release on the pre-order for the electric toothbrush. It has a natural Frequency of 34.9391231546912395 Hz Cleans the shit out of your teeth YO!

No. Efficiency is a rating of power made versus power consumed. ie, class AB amplifiers USE more current to make the same power.

Glad to hear you are okay, serious wtf!