///M5

Says sold

That isn't excess, it is meant to be there.

ROFL!

Comes in black or black, rofl. Probably comes in B stock or A, but they are really both B.

Flosses well !!!

It'd be nicer in his section, but he'd delete it.

I wasn't saying to do it. You can't link the shithole here, that's bad karma. Said it would fit here nicely in the general section though.

As low as extension as possible while maintaining output and not sending your driver into over excursion. At some point tuning lower will no longer buy you anything which you'll see as you start to play around. Best way is to make a few different designs and put them on the screen all at once. I sort of pick both extremes and then use the third to tinker in between and see what compromises I'll choose versus others.

I just got done cleaning the thread. Everything that was negative towards our toothbrush was either changed so that it became positive or deleted. I also deleted the other threads here highlighting my propensity to do this.

Imagine that. Could fit nicely in the general section here.

Indeed, which would lead me to ask why you are running 8's. It's rhetorical though, I don't need an answer but more cone area would be your friend.

WinISD is what I would use, but don't consider it design software but modeling software. IE, don't let it pick the port, box size, power, eq and such. That is a job for the user.

Neither your plate amp or receiver have that option. You need to buy something like a miniDSP or if you want something pre-configured a Reckhorn B-2.

Hope the boy is sleeping on his errand running with mom. I'd like to take him boating.

Otherwise ported and HT = driver death.

If it's for movies the box is completely different than for music. Movies you should port somewhere in the low teens. Have to model the driver and watch output, extension, excursion, port velocity, and use of power to really make recommendations. I'd also HIGHLY recommend an SSF for Home Theater use otherwise the ultra low stuff can easily send you beyond xmax.

Personally I wouldn't. No need. It'll force you to set it conservatively and I'm sure your music isn't recorded that way. If you want to test the amp to see what voltage it clips at fine...but even then realize resolution wise looking at a waveform is not such a good way to do even this.

Obviously I need to say it again, but differently. Shoehorning some aero's into your box is stupid. They have a purpose and are a good solution, but not for you or your box.

That and problems come from interactions with others normally. You can't change how others act either, you can only change how you act around others. If you want a different result you have to change.

That's a remote mount coil. Not HEI. Just take your cap/coil to Autozone and tell them you need a coil to match. Realized it's non-HEI like you linked although the cap looks identical except for the missing coil. That was my plan. Marine ones are potted for vibration supposedly but after more searching Napa has a GM one that is marine certified for $60 so I figure that is a reasonable compromise.

Depends on how hard you play them. If you are going to go balls out then an 8" driver can require a 4". From there you can do the math. If of course you NEVER turn it up then you can get away with less. Using Aero's to use an Aero port isn't a good reason. There are a time and a place for them, but that doesn't make them a logical one size fits all. For your constraints a slot will work better.

A little disturbing too. Either they flat out lie that they are 90db sensitive or they made some HUGE compromises. I wouldn't be interested for $200.

Yikes, $160 for a coil. The $70 for the wires isn't too disgusting. http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1423 Wonder how different from non marine a coil is. And the fucking MEFI system does not have to follow standards so OBDII won't talk to it. Damnit.

Was going to say, think it's time for a reload on blood

Yes, along with an on/off integrated into the pot. I don't see that happening in an audio taper...without dropping bucks. And then you still won't get on off. I have an on/off switch in the boat to kill the amps if I want, but my amps turn on with my ignition. 3sec delay circuit and no amplifier pop. MY remote wire will be via the ignition as well, but I want to be able to turn the 1000/1 off at any time and wanted to integrate it into my volume control. And you've actually found a pot that will let you do that?? I just used a button switch. <--dinosaur