///M5

and other shit too!

<- knows of Jack

<- doesn't know Jack

We've already been over this, those are for my wife!

Jack! Off!

<--currently rubbing down his balls with an ice cube

Everything is usable, none of it ideal. Everything is a compromise in a car....you just made those compromises in a way that is far from optimal. Before doing anything though I'd really determine my mounting locations and decide what you'd do down the road. It may allow you to temporarily use what you have or pieces of. I

So call your neighbors dog, rum

You don't need a dog to do that

Or, unfill that shit!

Spoon the shit out?

You pick. One is right, one is wrong. One, one...

or one, one FAIL

one, one, one, one, one, one, one FAIL

I count higher than you

Or maybe just posters that actually want to learn so they like my non-spoon feeding approach. Normally I get yelled at.

Exciting. Actually two decent threads to post in tonight besides the Hoppish like places.

Unless she's hot and it's on her face.

Hey, I appreciate the effort you've put into the thread and not freaking and getting all defensive when I asked if you'd sell what you bought. That isn't easy to take. To make you feel better, for my sunroom I bought some RS225's as well to mate with a RS28 since I've seen it done. Well, pretty much that ain't gonna happen. You'd have to be seriously lucky to get an RS28 that'll play low enough to do that...mine didn't pass so I sold the 225's.

Depends on the door, your music tastes, your budget, your goals, what you currently own, your expectations. There is no catch all and if anyone ever responds saying there is they don't know what they are talking about.

It fucked his brain up, that has to be the ugliest vehicle I've ever seen. Seriously. At least his install will rattle it and maybe correct what went wrong.

I mean there are tons of compromises in car audio. Understanding which ones to deal with physically, electronically and with driver choice is the balance you need to solve. Obviously avoiding them all would be best, but it's not possible. Electronically you can make adjustments with t/a, crossovers, and eq. I don't think I've recommended a component set since 1989 in that budget range and when I did then, I was wrong.

Seriously KEEP playing. There will be all sorts of people that try to argue you are doing something wrong, but it's their ignorance coming through. Exactly the mechanism I'd use to select drivers but never as the program recommends. Programs are tools, not oracles.

And just to be clear. Read my sig. I am not trying to rip on the OP, but instead ripping on the asshats that made him feel like this was the way to go. I thought I should clarify since it was obvious to me, but that rarely means obvious to the other thread readers.

So you don't listen and adjust when playing music? Again, it all comes down to goals but picking a value IMO is absurd. Why not use -10dB and never turn it up all the way and listen for stress. Why not use 0dB and never have anything to worry about. Why tune beyond the distortion level your ear can hear? Why not tune to textbook no distortion so you never have any? I could go on, but perhaps that helps. An O'scope is a useful tool, just not so much for car audio. Obviously if you have a $50k Nicollet it'll have the resolution and processing you need to do something but a simple waveform view just isn't helpful. Even worse is the Deeee Deeee One. Obviously meant to steal money from the uninformed. Personally I find the most useful tool in car audio to be the DMM, but I've never set a gain with one.