///M5

Buys you a stop or two, that's it.

The zero shutter lag is the main killer for most camera it seems like. Every person and their brother seems to have a 'manual' mode that allows change of the goodies, but what kills it for me most of the time is lack of high ISO usability. I would love to be able to run good quality at ISO 3200+, but that sure isn't going to happen with an F5.6 zoom lens. ISO is usually related to the sensor itself. It can't mimic film without heating up and creating noise. Budget SLR's will be limited to 1600, but you can make up for it with a low F stop lens. 5.6 isn't really an optic.

Had a Habanero burger today in Hutchinson. 3 roasted Hab's on it completely whole. The first two weren't so hot, the third actually kicked my ass. And by kicked my ass I mean I drank two glasses of water and for the first time in probably 5 years had a hot shit. Surprised.

Adjustable apertature, shutter, iso, and ZERO shutter lag are the pre-requisites for a camera. If you don't use or know any some "training wheels" are logical....which to me would be something you can sell for what you pay which means used. If it's cheap enough to begin with then who cares. Of course if you are shooting real estate, birds or other really specific things then recommendations can change.

Something like a G12 or similar if budget is to be followed. It is impossible to get around optic problems so getting an expensive body without appropriate optics is not so smart. I laugh my ass off on phones with camera's. Great 10mp and a lens that resolves 1mp. Dee dee dee. Fucking marketing.

Again, bodies are like rifles. Many are "good enough" the real payback is in glass.

Or your oil pressure, transmission temperature, water temp, oil temp, AFR, and so on. Not saying no gauge is necessary, I love to know what's going on I'd just choose in a different order perhaps. Chasing tenths on a car you drive around daily is stupid. Your ears can't tell. Learn to listen to your system and hear when its stressed and you'll be much better off.

Camera labs and dpreview have decent reviews that give some insight anyway.

What features on the Sony were making you think it was the choice for you?

I recommend you shop for lenses.

Terrible vignetting Lend me $500, or stfu. Oh and that's shot with a camera held up to it, so I wouldn't consider it a good test. I actually checked out the lower model from Vortex this morning, and it did not have any vignetting. But the corners are all black!

Great use for it considering you surely don't know your cabin gain up front. As long as the frequency is adjustable or fits in a range where it helps. Nothing like adding another level of safety to have it be out of whack and give false confidence.

If you spend under $1k you should get more of a point and shoot or something with an integrated lens. Real glass starts around $800, before that going to an SLR isn't of so much benefit now that the trickle down has put the category of cameras that fit right in between. I hate the Sony interface, the available lenses, their propensity to use proprietary things, the ergonomics, where the settings are, etc. Pretty much a dumper of an SLR IMO. Sure it can take pictures just fine, but if you remember Stefan getting shit about picking a rifle first and budgeting more for it than the scope, then you should be able to predict this conversation For camera's glass is even more important than a gun/scope. I'd seriously rather have an 8 year old SLR with a great lens than to swap the budgets. And the pictures will be better too. Megapixels are a useless number on camera's as none of the lenses you are looking at can resolve beyond 8MP pretty much anyways. Add to that how they will fall apart in low light and you'd be better off with an integrated solution.

For Matt: As a reference, that is >2lbs of fish. Not exactly cut like they do at sushi restaurants Although if you look closer at the scallops you will tell that this was done on purpose and not because I couldn't make it thinner.

What are you shooting Neal? Generally speaking the more zoom the worse the lens. I have a prime 50mm (no zoom at all) and while its a killer lens its hard to put it on as the 50mm is not wide enough for indoor shots regularly. I'll reiterate my comment from above. If you aren't going to sort through and find old gems for lenses that Minolta sold I would run from the Sony. The body is the easy part to make. Lenses not. Also consider the body more um disposable and the lenses as something you'll have forever. Buy good quality glass and never replace it. If I were buying a Canon, I'd buy a used body and a used zoom for a first lens. This one would be a good start: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/586286-GREY/Canon_0344B002AA_EF_24_105mm_f_4L_IS.html Used it should be $600-700 and you will find it as photographers will graduate to ones with less zoom. That range will cover nearly all your shooting and hold it's value for 10 years. A used 50d or the like paired with it would allow you to do nearly anything.

That lens will not make you happy. Terrible range for normal shooting and the f stop is *puke*

Personally unless you have a collection of KMG glass I'd look at Nikon or Canon.

Thanks J, my timing is teh suck

Terrible vignetting

And I'd take that one step further and say I flat out don't understand a permanent install of a voltmeter, unless of course you have every other gauge that let's you monitor your car and its status. The voltmeter is the last I'd add.

Didn't realize it could fuck up your hair that bad.

Depends on your definition of midbass. The anarchies are beasts. Not many 7's like that and none of them will excel at being a midrange. You can have output or extension, not both....which of course is why 3 ways exist. Again, focusing on the install and it's variables are step one. I know doors and pillars, but that's about it

Large format, low Fs is going to be your friend. It will allow flexibility. Generically crossing the tweeter at 2x Fs is about as low as you'll want it to play. Tweeters are really subjective in nature, but reading through Zaph's test isn't a bad start. At the same time, if they are going in doors you are going to be counteracting yourself a bit. In doors usually means rather off axis which normally means smaller than a 1" tweeter to really perform which limits the LFE as they will have a higher Fs. If you can do pillars it will help, in particular considering the "mid" you are looking at is more of a midbass than a mid. So can you fit a 3+" tweet up in your pillars?

I realize you clarified, but I wanted to do the same.

Garlic salt (or garlic powder and kosher salt) is delicious on fresh watermelon Garlic salt should never be purchased by anyone. Just like rubs that contain salt. Buying anything that is mostly salt with some other added I don't get at all. First rule in learning to cook is to learn to season and by season I mean salt. Separating the two allows you to do this.