porkchop

i might be guilty of over kill , but i am using 4 gauge for my speaker wire! lol. chop lol 4gauge lmoa! hell with 4 gauge you can power like 90amps at 1ohm is like 4krms lmoa!! over kill!!!! and how did you fit 4guage in a 8gauge push terminal? those little reducers or like trim the wire down A LOT lol yeah we trimmed her up some..lol .... see build log

welding wire has a much weaker jacket and you have to be extra carefull when using it! like when you go though the firewall you have to use gromets and when going around sharp corners or rubbing spots you HAVE to tape them off or put something soft between the wire and the object. the car audio wiring cost more b/c it has a tougher jacket! Hey buddy......i got to speak up on that one..... that is not consistant with each brand of welding cable..... the 2/0 gauge welding cable that i have ran in the Dakota has a 1/8th" outer jacket and a 1/16th" inner jacket that is tough as nails.... being a Ironworker, I have had my fair share of welding cable in my hands over the past 13 yrs. we drag this cable, several hundred feet at times, acrosss steel, high in the air.....live! you can imagine if it were to cut and arc out, not a good thing. there is some "Billy Bad Ass" car audio cable out there, just the same, there is some welding cable that is top notch, in almost every senario , it will be cheaper, there is no mark up on it due to the car audio hype, some of this companies can sell audio equipment 230% mark up and they will get it for a while too! there is some good welding cable out there.... just fyi. okay , i got that all out there, lol. chop that cool! like i siad i never used it in car audio or in real life so it is all new to me! it is good you chimed in to clear that up though! i guess the only wire i am used to is the welding wire i used on my shops tig welder and that stuff o man you had to be careful with it! no problem..... yes the welding lead ( cable ) used with a tig set up is no comparison to what is hooked up to a big ass diesel , Lincoln welder and drug all over the job site for 6 to 8 months..... tigging in shop class = ftw, keep it up! chop

i might be guilty of over kill , but i am using 4 gauge for my speaker wire! lol. chop

welding wire has a much weaker jacket and you have to be extra carefull when using it! like when you go though the firewall you have to use gromets and when going around sharp corners or rubbing spots you HAVE to tape them off or put something soft between the wire and the object. the car audio wiring cost more b/c it has a tougher jacket! is welding wire generally as flexible as car audio power wire? hoping mdizzle has the picture of the welding cable i traded him.... 2/0 gauge welding cable circled in two coils, the same diameter as my fist..... yes it is pretty flexable as well..... chop

welding wire has a much weaker jacket and you have to be extra carefull when using it! like when you go though the firewall you have to use gromets and when going around sharp corners or rubbing spots you HAVE to tape them off or put something soft between the wire and the object. the car audio wiring cost more b/c it has a tougher jacket! Hey buddy......i got to speak up on that one..... that is not consistant with each brand of welding cable..... the 2/0 gauge welding cable that i have ran in the Dakota has a 1/8th" outer jacket and a 1/16th" inner jacket that is tough as nails.... being a Ironworker, I have had my fair share of welding cable in my hands over the past 13 yrs. we drag this cable, several hundred feet at times, acrosss steel, high in the air.....live! you can imagine if it were to cut and arc out, not a good thing. there is some "Billy Bad Ass" car audio cable out there, just the same, there is some welding cable that is top notch, in almost every senario , it will be cheaper, there is no mark up on it due to the car audio hype, some of this companies can sell audio equipment 230% mark up and they will get it for a while too! there is some good welding cable out there.... just fyi. okay , i got that all out there, lol. chop

the car audio wire has a nicer look..... the welding wire has a cheaper price..... there are some science majors on here that can tell you the rest of it....lol, just my .02 for ya. chop

hey bro..... what is your plans with the wiring? am i reading it right that currently you have the the 2 runs of 0 gauge and will be adding three runs of 3/0 gauge for the ground? Is your current electrical wiring all 0 gauge? like all the big three is done with it already? just wanting to get a feel for the electrical.... any subwoofer brand or makepicked out yet? i have already scratched, (marred), the bejebbers, (lol @ me spelling that), out of my enclosure..... a textured or speckled finish =FTW. chop

r u going with a enclosure in the trunk firing forward, sealed off? curious what sub enclosure plans you have with that XCON, you said SQ with impressive SPL......so far you are on the right track, great sounding sub. chop

thanks..... are you considering murdering it out completly at some point? just curious with the blacked out features it already has. I like the build so far, looking good. chop

holding my vote till i see more pics......

nice equipment list, would like to see body work at same angle of the damaged angle, for comparisons. will be watching. chop

looking like a good start .............. 4 18" BTL's + a suburban = FTW !!!! chop

i think i would put it under the carpet , looks better in the pic. nice area for all the power to be in. chop

nice equipment list, really into seeing the install. Chop

looks like a nice amp you got,,,,, can't wait to see what it does for your install. Chop

looking good .

looking good ... keep it up bro. chop

Welcome.

Thanks and congrats on continuing your education. chop

Welcome,

off of the specs and other reveiws read on the sub, it would be assumed that it would have the ability to do well in more of a musical enviroment than in a fart box. these reveiws where not from LB, I feel like it still has some potential to sound better. i am not fully in the know about how the enclosure can help out, I though that i have read to get a lower bass response, you tune the box lower, lengthen the port. I also am having trouble with the coil being warm..... i have the amp at about 35/40% gain. i am only guessing there is no clipping, there is no distortion, i have turned up the head unit a little too high a few times, it is hard not too though, i was guessing that if there is no clipping, creating the sqaure waves that take away the thermal handling ability that it must be that the sub is in too large of an enclosure..... I am not sure and am looking for input, advice, reading material, relitive links, etc. I want the bass response to equal that of the many systems that i have heard in sound...... I know i will not be the loudest amongst us, that is fine, i just want it to sound "right" to me. I still need a dmm from mikey. I still need to add a battery. I really would like to have as much power as i can to throw at this sub. Is a higher tunning really a option for receiving lower bass notes.....not sure i understand that thought process. when you say, ///M5 , that it could be a fart box sub, what would point this chararestic out? I assume that the fact that LB had one is not the only scientifical way of identifying these subs that you speak of. If the amp is set properly, by the dmm, and the head unit is set up correctly, what other attributes would cause the sub to get warm? sorry for all the questions, but hey, that is why i am on here and not over on that other forum...... thanks chop

No problem!!!

the fastest i ever went broke was ........................." I Do " !!!!!!!!!!!!! lol