R_Mac_1

I've had my amp mounted to my box for a few years with no problems, and it's a el cheapo Profile amp. I know it's not ideal, but it was easy and saves space.

Yeah. The sub frying was nice because it gave me a good reason to upgrade, but sucked because I was planning on putting that woofer in my other vehicle. (06 Buick Rainer, stock Bose system. Currently have a Alpine Type E in a ported box ran by a Profile AP1000M) I had 2 Type S in my Bonneville, but the other one already had one bad voice coil.

I'm not really sure, man. I'd wait for a few of the more knowledgeable guys to chime in. That amp may not even be stable at .5 ohms. From reading a few reviews on that site it seems a few people even had trouble running it at 1 ohm.

What a nice guy. I've always been the type to turn my stereo down at stoplights and whatnot. The only time I don't is when someone else rolls up next to me blasting their stereo, then I'll turn mine up (unless there's other people next to me). I'm the type to have respect for others, until they don't do the same. I really only turn it up on main roads when it's not too late. I always cut it down in neighborhoods, at stop lights, etc.

If you want a 1 ohm load, then you get the dual 2 ohm and run them parallel to get a 1 ohm load. If you got them dual 1 ohm then you would have to run it in either 2 or .5 ohms.

Thanks. I'll take your word for it. Now to just wait patiently for the UPS guy.

After doing some research I decided to order a 12" SSD D2 last night with the copper coil option. I couldn't decide whether or not to add the BP power option, though. Here's my deal. For now, I will be powering it with ~600w RMS bridged on my Profile AP1200. That's all good. But, sometime in the future I'd like to get a new amp. Probably get a monoblock that gives ~1000w at 1 or 4 ohms. My question is, do you think I should have gotten the BP power option in anticipation of doing this down the road? Would having this now affect the sub in any way beings I'm giving it lower than it's recommended power? If it matters, I will be putting the sub in a ~1.1 sealed box that I already have, but will probably build a ported box (to the recommended specs) and see which one I am more happy with. Finally, if I decide I want to add the option, what's the best way to get ahold of the sales guys there and let them know before it's too late? I ordered the sub in the evening yesterday so I'm sure they're just getting the order today. I figure I could just pay the $20 to do it if it will be good insurance in the future. If it's too late, then oh well. I jumped on it last night before the ol lady decided to change her mind. She hates it when I spend money on 'useless crap'.

I know it would be fine for now. I'm saying with the copper coil option, would it be better to get the BP power as well since I'm planning on giving it more like 800-1000w in the future? Maybe I should just leave it alone and deal with it when the time comes. I dunno. I was also wondering if you sacrifice anything by getting the BP option added as opposed to the copper coil only. And I'm talking about one 12 here, not two. Sorry if I was unclear.

Well, I decided to go ahead and order something. Went with the Fi SSD 12" D2 w/ the copper option. Oh yeah, here's what my old Type S was looking like. Smelled yummy.

I'm trying. Gonna try to just read a bunch of threads and find some info before I go poking around asking questions. Although I will say I'm eyeing the Fi SSD 12", so any insight into that is welcomed. But I'll leave this thread for the hello and do some research to find my answers.

Some cool setups one here. Here's mine. Samsung HL67A750 67" 1080p LED DLP Onkyo 705 Playstation 3 80 GB Panasonic BD-35 Newpoint Theater Director power center HSU STF-2 subwoofer Yamaha NS-555 mains Yamaha NS-c444 center Yamaha NS-333 side and rear surrounds LED rope light backlighting and about 60 Blu Rays so far