Kawonu

I switched to 6 inch aero ports from a slotted port when I started in competition a couple months ago. I was stuck at 141 dB at the headrest with the slot. I made another box with the same volume but with dual aero ports. Both ends are flared. I have a middle section that I remove for competition at 44 Hz and the daily is 32Hz. I gained a dB by going to the aeroports. I don't know if making a bend in the ports would have any effect.

Looks great. Keep up the good work.

My first box was tuned to 32 and it was great. I started competing and now I have a box that has aero ports tuned to 34 for daily and I change them out to 42 for comp. The 42 doesn't hit the lows like the lower tuning. 32-34 is really great on the lows.

It should have a subsonic filter...just fixed at 25Hz. I have the 1000.1 on a 15 BL. My current box is daily tuned to 34 and for comps it is tuned to 42. I have only found a couple songs with the aero ports tuned to the 42 Hz that the sub can't handle. I think FMOD has a filter.

You will not be disappointed in the BL. I have one and with the right enclosure it sounds great on that same music. I compete with some of those kinds of music and it gets loud and still sounds good.

It was good to meet you at the show on Saturday.

Welcome from NC

I finally got my box painted and put in the truck. This is my first FI product as I did a lot of online reading before settling on a BL. I've had Kicker 12 L7s, Pioneer SPL 10s and old school Kickers. This BL by far is the loudest sub I've had and it hits the lows very well and still has very good musical abilities. I am very impressed with it so far. I set the amp with a DMM and did the big 3 in 1/0. I had dimming before with just the mid/high amp (zr240 on the Focal polyglass 6.5 comps). No dimming now at all. I tuned the box to approximately 33 Hz. It is right at 4 cubes and its the first time I've done anything with fiberglass. It has 5 yards of mat and 2 gallons of resin and 2 more of rage gold. Painted with hot hues DuPont paint and 4 coats of clear. Its in a 2005 Mercury Mariner. I still have to come up with a better amp rack, but here are some pics. Thanks for all the information that I've learned on here to make this happen. I recommend FI to anyone now. The box still rough Test fit Primer The box bolted in place The sub bolted in

Thanks! I figured that I was in the mid 140's but when that popped up I was like holy #$%! Now I need to find a competition somewhere around here, since I've never competed. You will do extremely well, especially with a single 15" Who would I contact for a competition around North Carolina/South Carolina?

Thanks! I figured that I was in the mid 140's but when that popped up I was like holy #$%! Now I need to find a competition somewhere around here, since I've never competed.

The color is Dupont Hot Hues Green Xtreme 741515HH

Got to put it on the meter today for a little testing. I found that windows up hit higher numbers. I got it up to 150.5 at 47 Hz.

Just have mine insured. I live in a safe neighborhood and work is safe too.

Welcome from Asheville, NC

I have an old school LP 1502IQ. It has not be modded. I'm getting ready to start putting together something for my wife's car. She wants a good sounding front stage with minimal bass from a sub. She listens to all kinds of music. Is this amp worth sending out to be modded and put on a component set of Focals or similar? Or should I just sell it and get a Sundown amp. If I go with the Sundown amp...could the 100.4 do the front components and also a sub like the SA-8 on pre-sale now? This is going in a Kia Spectra5. The specs show that it has to have a slim mount component set. Does anyone know of any components around the same quality as the Focals that are shallow mount? Thanks!

I made sure that the DMM was on Vac. I have 2 DMMs and checked with both thinking something may have happened to one of them. Still the same...low 18's at max gain. I'll pull the H/U out this weekend pending weather as we are supposed to get another 6-10 inches of snow. I don't have a garage to work in.

What I have currently installed: Kenwood Excelon H/U – Ez700SR (more than 4 years old) Kicker ZR240 on Focal 6.5 Polyglass components Kicker ZX1000.1 on Fi BL15 fully loaded in 4 ft^3 at 32 Hz Big three in 1/0 2005 Mercury Mariner SUV I first set the sub amp with a DMM when I first installed the sub back in November. I was working on modifying the amp rack over the weekend and decided to put the DMM back on and make sure nothing has moved. When I first set the amp I had 44.7 volts with the 50 Hz tone with volume of 27 out of 35. I have no bass boost turned on the amp and all settings on the deck are flat. Now.... The most voltage I could get with the amp was 18.4 volts with 50 Hz tone. That was with the gain all the way maxed. I took the RCAs off and measured them and they were measuring 0.1 volts. The voltage at the amps with the car running is 14.37. I should be getting 44.7 volts to reach the 1000 watts of that amp. Is it time for a new H/U? Any suggestings?

I took both amps back out last night. I put the tone cd in and still only got 0.1v on both sets of RCAs. I added back the sub amp first and still couldn't get over 18.3v this time. If I start turning the bass boost up then I can get to the 44.7v. I didn't want to do that so I turned it back all the way down. I left it on 15v just to be safe. My amp on the highs I did not check voltages as I can't turn up the gains very much at all or the front is just too damn strong. I checked the RCAs for any nicks or cuts and didn't see anything. The RCAs are old school Monster Cable...the big blue 4 channel ones with a grounding wire that is connected to the deck.

Just unhooked the amps, moved them around and rechecked them. There maybe a little less output but I don't know. The cd player will skip randomly (not just a couple seconds) now too and cut off and skip to the next track. I thought maybe it was the cd so I burned another one and same thing.

What company? I used to build power generation and distribution units and we used a lot of MCCs from GE, Cutler Hammer, Square D, and ABB. EATON / Cutler-Hammer ....

I have done a few CAD positions with very similar work over the recent years. It's got its ups and downs. Strikes and gutters, as the dude would say. The software is a nightmare, pro/engineer. I call it pro/p-o-s. OEM projects are the best. Logging and verifying hours. The paper work. Oh, and don't get me started on revisions, I love revisions. PRO/E is a nightmare...we use Inventor at work....easier to use but has its own drawbacks as well.

I'm a lead designer in medium voltage motor controls for a large electrical company from 7am to 4ish.

What do you mean?

I have the same amp on a BL. I do not use the bass boost at all and the sub sounds great.

I just emailed Rob at DC power the other day because they don't list one for a Mercury Mariner. He said they do make them so they probably have one for your car too.