Lucky 76

Needs that power @ 2 ohm though.

I would personally get the sundown saz-2000d. It is rated at 1000 rms @ 2 ohm but it is an underrated amplifier. 1000 watts rms is also rated at 12.8 volts vs kicker's 1500 @14.4 volts. This amplifier will also be easier to resell and if you ever want to get another stroker you can use the same amplifier. Kicker is a 2 ohm stable amp and nobody wants a 2 ohm stable amp =) Sundown amplifiers come with a 2 year warranty.

So you want to throw 2400 watts at the stroker, it can be done if you leave the gain knob down and you know how to control the volume knob wisely. I would get the kicker but it has a set sub sonic filter which would only allow you to build certain ported boxes tuned in a small frequency range instead of your preferences. I personally am not a fan of kicker. What is your budget?

What do you mean? its flat on the edges and bubbly in the middle.

I bought 500 bucks worth of that wire from that guys. That wire sucks. There is a reason that monster cable wire is so cheap. It is not tinned it is pure copper. That means its going to oxidize. There is also a thick piece of plastic in the middle. The wire is so hard to flex. It is not a flexible cable what so ever. Don't make the mistake I made. Just go for the knukonceptz. You can't go wrong. For the amp you are running just get the klmx. The karma cables are great but any regular pair of rcas will do. You won't hear a difference. Thanks for that update of that wire cause i was about to buy it how about the 1/0 welding cable (304-1270UF) 1/O Welding Cable UltraFlex Orange www.weldingsupply.com Welding cable is a great deal but just like most wire it is untinned. It will oxidize but you will be fine. If you don't plan on competing then get the welding cable. Better than the klmx.

I bought 500 bucks worth of that wire from that guys. That wire sucks. There is a reason that monster cable wire is so cheap. It is not tinned it is pure copper. That means its going to oxidize. There is also a thick piece of plastic in the middle. The wire is so hard to flex. It is not a flexible cable what so ever. Don't make the mistake I made. Just go for the knukonceptz. You can't go wrong. For the amp you are running just get the klmx. The karma cables are great but any regular pair of rcas will do. You won't hear a difference.

What is the reasoning for not putting one on? It should not be that hard or cost effective since many line drivers and whatnot have clipping indicators.

Some kid was talking smack the other day about my choice of audio equipment. I proceeded to laugh in his face. He mentioned a brand called VIBE made in the UK. I never heard of the brand. I was just wondering what they are all about and if they are a good speaker. Also wondering where I could find a price list. Here is the company's website. VIBE - Vented Innovative Bass Enclosures - Car subwoofers, speakers, amps, installs, ICE and more!

There is really no need to replace the backs. Believe me, I have a 2003 Lincoln Aviator which is basically the same as your Explorer. I installed both and you cannot even hear the backs. Just invest in a set for the fronts.

To be honsest with you, the KLMX wire isn't that good. It is just straight copper wire vs the kolossus which is silver tinned. What happens to copper if it is not coated is it will oxidize. This creates more resistance and less power will be able to flow through the wire. This obviously happens gradually but if you plan on keeping your car for any type of long term use I suggest don't skimp. The klmx is also very light and cheap feeling. The klmx is fine if you don't plan on keeping your car for too long. That amplifier dosent need that heavy duty of wire in the first place. I do recommend doing the big 3 with the kolossus however.

Nvm. I misinterpretted what you were talking about. I thought you meant like a random piece of metal ahahah.

Minor clipping is fine. It won't do harm to a subwoofer or midbass. It is nice to have an idea of where your gains should truely be set.

You do realize that is a floating ground correct?

Kawonu, wtf is up with your box?

That may be a problem or something else is causing interference with the signal in the vehicle. I would try another single din headunit and if works then try and troubleshoot what could be interfering with the signal or causing the noise. That is real weird. Ya I will give that a try.

I know on my last radio the RCAs were seeking ground because the pico fuse popped. I am going to have to test this head unit. I think I am going to have to ask God to help me figure this one out ahaha. I am just hoping I don't hear any noises from the subs or else I am in big trouble

Bass boost will always cause problems reguardless. DO NOT TURN ON THE BASS BOOST. It will destroy all of your equipment. Here is some information to back that up. In order to increase by 3db, you theoretically need to double the output power of the amp. So say you have your gains set so you are producing 1000 watts rms without the bass boost and then you increase the bass boost to just 3db, the amp will try to output 2000 watts of power and thus clip like crazy and will overheat if not blow the amplifier. The only way to safely run bass boost is if you turn your gains wayyy down. But why would you want to do that? Then the only note that will be loud is 40hz. Bottom line, forget the boost!

It is weird because I remember trying a pos sony head unit and it worked fine. Then I put the old radio back in and I got the noise. However now I put the kenwood in and have the noise again. Maybe the problem is because I am using the big double din gps radios. That is what my old pioneer one was and that is what the kenwood is.

Just ordered 2 d3100s for the back and a d6500 for the front. Will be in monday.

I have to run a couple tests. I know on my old radio the same exact thing happened as what you are describing. This one is doing the same thing. I doubt it is the radio. I am going to try grounding it to another point on the car as well as rerouting the power and ignition wire. I doubt that the caps went in the ignition coils especially because I get noise elsewhere. Well have to see this weekend. I will keep you guys posted because I know you are all dying to know.

That is what I was thinking when I first came into this topic but then I realized there is actually a company out there name Vibe. Hopefully sooner or later someone can come on here and praise or contest there products. I know!!!! I want some user experience with this brand. I am curious to heard about them. There is nothing at all online about them.

I have tried noise filters and they do not work. They also decrease the output signal on the rcas.

I found a couple of the caps on the ignition coils. They are called the ignition transformer capacitors and have a number 18801.

I think I tried that on my old radio. I am going to have to give that a try with the new one just in case.

I did not know cars had radio noise suppressors built in to the car's circuit from the factory. Would this be something a certified lincoln technition would be able to locate and repair if needed? If not, will this manual do if I buy it? LINCOLN AVIATOR 2003-2005 SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL - Download Technical yes the dealer ship should be able to locate it. if it's beyound warranty then do it your self for chaep. btw auto zone has free manual's on line that are correct and they do have the 2003 lincoln avatior at this link i used the awd with the 4.6 v-8 but they got all the diagrams.for the other model of you car too. AutoZone.com | Membership Benefits btw a lot of the new car have so much electrial wraped up in them like my 97 taurus when ever a relay goes bad. the power window's don't work the stereo the dash gagues don't work ton's of stuff because of one relay. I am looking through the schematics and I have no clue exactly what I am looking for. What exactly am I supposed to be finding and where should I look?