Lucky 76

alright thanks ... my friend put attached the harness and i asked him if it was in secure and he said it was ... u never know unless you do it yourself though ... im going to check that when i go home

yes but why would the check charging system come on if i just swapped out the alt ... i had the bat checked at advanced and it said the battery was good

but you dont understand ... it was not this bad with the stock alternator ... this one is charging at less volts and even when i put maybe 500 watts to it the thing drops to the 11s w engine revved

because we know what the problem is now and now we are just getting off topic whats the problem? my charging system cannot keep up with the amps ... the voltage drops are causing the amps to work too hard ... also the t40001bd is a unique amp in itself and can get pretty hot according to rockford ... i did testing and the temp is not as bad as i thought at 0 volume (approx 95 on the output side and 91 on the input side) during all tests

for some reason the amp for my subs is getting incredibly hot . I dont understand why though as the gains were set correctly and no bass boost has been engaged. I found out that the plexi glass that i had placed over the amp was making things worse so i took that off ... it is still getting pretty hot however ... i do not know if it is getting adiquate cooling as it is under a false floor but because i took the plexi off it over 3/4s of the amp is revealed ... my 4 channel amp seems to stay cool but the mono is getting hot ... they are both power series amps (t8004 and t40001bd) ... what is the remedy and is there any ways to keep the amp cool?

i have a single alternator that is a 260 ... i have not even turned my system on high because i am afraid of the voltage drops ... i have a 4kw rockford and my 4 channel does like 100x4 at 4 ohm ... i do not have an external voltage regulator as dom said it would not be needed .... i think the problem is either the serpantine belt or the tensioner pully but i do not know if my check charging system light would go on

because we know what the problem is now and now we are just getting off topic

the alternator i have is a single wire and does not have a ground connection. it is mounted on 2 bolts that screw in to the engine block. is it alright that i grounded the engine block to chasis instead?

i have heard nothing but good from pioneer accept for this ... the new pioneer is looking very promising with built in ipod sound reconstruction sofware

the pico fuse is the size of an eyelash so good luck and costs something like $200 to have repaired ... you can ground the rcas as a band aid fix and it will get rid of some of the noises

i am debating on which double din to buy ... i dont know which one to get as far as features, sound quality, and gps goes ... i am debating between the alpine IVA-W505/P1 or the pioneer avic-z110bt

cant get any hookups lol ... need to order in quanities for small items that are less than like 500 (idk the exact amount) ... found out that it is most likely a power issue ... i checked it with the ipod and getting the same temp as the h/u ... believe it or not grounding to the harness is not the same according to pioneer as the chasis ... that is why they put the fork terminal on the end of the ground ... it obviously makes a difference and it has happened to a lot of people ... i have also put in a sony h/u to test and did not get any noise

how high are we talking ... id like to set the crossover to 80 hZ if possible ... what would be ideal so it hits the higher portion of the frequencies decent while maintaining low end

yes i understand but does the problem lie within the amp or can it be from the head unit or rcas

i just installed my rf t8004 and rf t40001bd. For some reason the t40001bd is getting hot even when i have the sub off. I am getting engine noise in both my speakers and subs. Today I disconnected my pos terminal and then while I was driving my mids and highs went crazy on me. Out of no where they started cutting out and started crackling like they were blown and my right mid was blasting a low frequency like a sub even when i turned the music to 0. Now the right mid will only work on and off and now the left mid is doing the same thing. They are barely putting out any sound even at high volumes. Sometimes they will sound fine and loud and sometimes they put out nothing and will crackle. I have been getting a lot of strange noises so I think it might be a ground but I cannot pin point it. I should also mention that the pico fuse in my pioneer head unit is blown and was getting alternator whine from before. What could this be?

i measured the outputs and it seems that one channel is putting out 70 volts dc? what does this mean if it is coming out in dc instead of ac

also was it 600 rms?

i meant how much did you pay for it

i found it right on the pioneer website .... boom

i have both my amps (t40001bd and t8004) grounded using a distrobution block ... it goes from two 0 gauge to a single 0 gauge ... the grounds are roughly 5 ft long each and they connect into the single 0 which is a little less than a foot ... is this alright?

probably not ... small stuff they sell in high quantites and the only reason i have everything at my house is so he could show customers ... i can probably get you a $10,000 unit that will find shorts all the shorts in your car using heat vision for like $5,000 lol ... too bad i dont have one of those lying around =(

i also used an external wire and speaker and still no output so that rules out speaker wire issues

i am going to do a test today. my dad is vp of sales at fluke networks so i have all the test equipment i need. i have reason to believe that my head unit is the problem. what i am going to do is do a 10 min test with the head unit at a volume of 0 and see what the temperature is using a special infared gun that measures the temperature of objects. I will wait until the amp goes back to room temperature and then do another 10 min test with my ipod connected to the existing rcas at a volume of 0. if the temperature is substantially greater on the head unit source i will know the culprit. if not then i will do another 10 min test using the ipod with external rcas and measure the temperature. if it is substancially less then the rcas and/or head unit are bad. if nothing changes then it is back to the drawing board =(

you will get about 1/4 less power out of the us but it will be a lot better quality ... how much was your fusion and how old is it

i found out after that most of their decks you need to ground to the chasis and not this harness ... if u ground to the harness they will blow