Lucky 76

you could try this one by the time you enter every thing you could be done with a plug and chug method btw i do not like the one on ssa it adds extra volume for the port and driver displacement. which increase total volume. this is why i use the one below with great success any ways there is a calculator and it step by step sorry had it in a word file for noobs which you more then like are not. http://www.ecalc.com/calculator/scientific/ use this calculator at link above square root key look like a check with a x inside powers of ten key looks like a y to the power of x av =10 lv=30 vb=864 do the this part first av(1.84x10to the power of key looks like y sub x when the calculator does the y to the power of x key it will put some thing that looks like a up side down carrot hit 8 then the equal sign. Then write the answer to all of the above down Next do vb(lv+.823then hit the square root key put in av then write the answer down Take the first answer and divided buy the second one Then take and put in to the calculator .159 square root of the answer of the two this should equal 40.63716007346 hertz for the fb Just remember you can plug any thing you want into av or lv or vb that the plug part Av =a 2 inch by 10 inch wxh or area of vent Lv = length of vent Vb = volume of box just try to keep the area of the vent less then a 9 :1 just divide like a 10 by 5 inch port in to this 5/5 and how many section of ten you get and 10 /10 and how many section of 5 you get this would equal 1x10inch and one 1x5 inch the 1x5 would pass but the 10x1 would not it to big here are some other formulas pie times radius squared radius is half of a circle and this trans forms a round to a square vent real quickly square root of “a” squared + “b” squared hypotenuse of a triangle and how to find it in inches Length x width x height Divide lxwxh by 1728 to get cubic feet or even multiply to get cubic inches Here is were the formula comes from http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=165 thanks for ur interest but i have already used the re box calc ..... hopefully it is close because i already built the box

just curious of y it is a bad idea to use deck power?

the problem is if i take the tweeters out of the door and put a set on my dash then there is a giant hole in the door

i am almost tempted to make mini enclosures for my second set of tweets and mount them on my dash ... ill fill in my door holes with a set of tweets running off the h/u

x2 ... at my internship i pretty much solder everyday to build circuit boards and they taught me to heat the wire ... everyone has their own preference ... it is unlikely that you will get a cold solder joint

i had my infinity kappa tweeters running off the h/u and they just clipped the sh!t out of them at like half volume ... they also shut down the h/u's internal amp very quickly with eq set to flat no loudness and sla on lowest setting

you will get no power out of your remote wire ... it is just a 12 volt constant to turn on your amp with little amperage

i am trying to fit 8 gauge in the push button terminals on my subs ... how do you recommend i fit it in there? .... you need to put 2 strands on some terminals and i cant stuff them in there tight enough... should i solder them together and then push them in or is there something i am missing

i was looking at the knukonceptz krystal rcas ... they are looking pretty nice for the price ... anyone have any experience with them? ... they look similar to the high end jl interconnects or the mid grade monsters

y not get a q and upgrade the cooling on it with the bp option ... it will handle that power daily

that's what she said

you should double up on ur crossover ... it is less frequency for your amp to filter out without an oscilloscope you cannot really test where your h/u clips that is why people say to turn it down to 3/4 (better to be safe than sorry) ... yes you need to tune the front and rear gains independently as they are driven separately sometimes making one set of outputs more than the other ... also make sure that when tuning each gain that you test both the outputs going to that gain as one can be slightly higher (always tune to the output with the highest voltage) ... do not tune to the birthed amount of power because your amp will most likely clip ... bring the wattage down some Having multiple crossovers in the signal chain causes phase issues. really? when i worked at boomer mcloud in watertown they told me that it was better to filter them out at both the h/u and amp ... which would be better to do? amp or h/u?

both my rockfords do =) He has a 3000BD who has a 3000bd?

They're wired right, meter is saying 1.2 ohms at the amp. Can you take one out and check? Cause you just measured DC resistance. resistance should be the same in ac or dc shouldnt it?

you should double up on ur crossover ... it is less frequency for your amp to filter out without an oscilloscope you cannot really test where your h/u clips that is why people say to turn it down to 3/4 (better to be safe than sorry) ... yes you need to tune the front and rear gains independently as they are driven separately sometimes making one set of outputs more than the other ... also make sure that when tuning each gain that you test both the outputs going to that gain as one can be slightly higher (always tune to the output with the highest voltage) ... do not tune to the birthed amount of power because your amp will most likely clip ... bring the wattage down some

the subs are the ts-w3001d4 by pioneer (premier) ... there will be 2 of them in the enclosure and it will be powered by a hifonics brutus bxi2006d so i am guessing around 1500 watts to them ... this is some stuff i had lyign around and i sold it to my friend ... he wanted a ported box so we are trying to figure out how to build it ... i cant find the box calculator on ssa anymore =(

just wondering how to find out what frequency to tune a box to? do you base it off fs?

i am also going to swap on the h/u for the new pioneer avic-z110bt

ya there is no fans as of now ... i had to take the plexi out because it melted from the t40001bd =( .... i am in a little of a rut right now ... everything is in but they sent me a bad t8004 that somehow put out dc and broke all my xxx 6.5s ... so now i have to send that back ... ill post pics of what its looking like tho

both my rockfords do =)

Most people will just hit it with a sledgehammer, but a vise works MUCH better. that is badass

ya my old 120 dollar tsunami pros were so tight they ripped the rca inputs off my jbl and infinity amps even while twisting them out lmao ... its time for a new set because the stripping on the jacks are coming off and i have to guess which are which

voltage is not dropping as rpms rise ... i understand i need to put another ground on the engine block but i dont have any wire at the moment ... i would think that it would be more important to have one closest to the alt.

y must everything not work for me =( .... i installed an excessive amperage alt about a month ago and it was not putting out anywhere its intended amount ... it would charge at only 14.1 and voltage drops would be incredible (into the 10s) ... no check charging system came on ... i decided to buy an iraggi to replace the ea alternator ... it still charges but only to 13.9 and now i am getting worse voltage drops and now the check charging system light comes on ... the pulley is smaller and also making a high pitch turning sound that i did not heard before in the ea ... i checked all my wires and it seems like everything is going where it is supposed to go ... the only thing i changed was that i rerouted the ground from the engine block to the top sanded part of the casing where the mounting bracket is bolted in

i am going to charge the battery tonight and dom said if worse comes to worse that i can send him my factory one and he will build it according to that