Lucky 76

j/w how u tested this .... id like to see where my peak frequency in my car is

with a dmm there is room for error ... try to get your hands on an oscope so you can be completely sure ... u can get away with 825 if u want to use a dmm ... u r still a 100 watts under max

for $25 why not buy it? ... if u dont like it throw it out lol

btw id rather a different set of amps ... if i could return them i would .... they are power pigs with a 500 and 150 amp fuse rating ... wish the sundown 4500 watt amp was out

for the short amount of time i had them in they bumped ... i had to take them out because the t8004 was putting out dc instead of ac on one channel and ruined a mid ... they were vibrating the floor xd over at 80hz ... pretty much just an incredible speaker ... i ran them full range just because and they were fine with 180 watts each lol

no1 likes my aviator =( lol

if u have a 200 amp alt u might as well just keep ur front battery ... dont put in the 800 yet ... see if you have voltage drops below 13 ... if you do (u shouldnt with a 200 amp alt) upgrade to the big 3 ... if problems still persist put in the 800 then see if there is a difference ... the problem with batteries are they are a load in themselves and will create more work on the alternator thus dropping the voltage ... never use a cap

great call going with the dcons

why not just get a single xcon? the pioneers arent that good. they dont take the power. i could barely run 750 to my tsw30002d4. plus they are on backorder and really cost 75 a piece after shipping

i want to buy it but i still dont have enough to finish what is in my car now =(

if you are interested in a good repair shop you might want to check out CIA Engineering. I sent my amps out there and they are great. I tested my hifonics amp i got back from them after they replaced all the mosfets and I was able to turn the gains all the way up without clipping! (measured with an oscope) ... did i mention i was using a 4v rca input as well? ... great company, great prices, great service .... they also warranty their service ... they also send you a sheet of information on what was wrong and what could have caused it

that bus bar is looking delish ... idk if copper was a good call ... that might corrode like crazy

sorry this took so long to get posted ... havent really had time to upload pics ... still some problems ... waiting on my t8004 to get back to me leveled out floor deadened wires organized and mounting plates aligned amps mounted floor in place spacer mounted spacers deadened speakers mounted burnt fingers from soldering iron ;( box cut icon 12 =) installed still have to put in the new kenwood dvx9140 that i am going to buy, i need to still do some custom fabrication on the box (it will be a suprise when it gets done), and still need to build a middle piece in between the rear seats to house my batteries that i still have to buy lol ... also waiting on my alternator >

one thing i strongly recommend is you check up on how good of a repair shop or person or whatever you are taking it to. Because swapping parts is easy getting it so its fixed and working isn't so easy. If this guy just knows how to solder and thats it you may want to just have it fixed by someone who knows what they are doing. put in that controller backwards and holy shit ya let us know how it goes ... its also easy to tell which way the controller goes ... if u look at it there is a little notch, that is how you know what side is the beginning and then the side where the circle is closest to is pin 1 the go from left to right and that is 8 at the end, then ontop of 8 is 9 and then count right to left and the ending is pin 16 it would look like this 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

ICs are very delicate and it was most likely an internal problem within the IC ... how old was the amp? .... like i said it could have also been ESD (electro static dischard) from just handling the amp (inside a shipping box with peanuts or plastic) ... anything is possible ... i do not know how much those parts cost ... i forget a website in which you can order that stuff from ... i know the website i sent you is for if you need to purchase in bulk i believe

also if you look at the picture of the IC - KIA494AP it seems that most of the blow was taken at pin 7 .... that is also where the crack is .... i looked up the data sheet on that IC from this website http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/K/I/A/4/KIA494AP.shtml and it seems that pin 7 is ground ... usually a ground would blow out if there was a short of some sort in the chip so you might be good as far as that being the problem goes

im not saying that i am right by n e means ... i have troubleshooted a couple circuits and build a few cards at my work but i am just a second year intern at uconn as u already know ... to me it sounds like your IC - KIA494AP was either defective or damaged .... ICs are ESD sensative meaning even things like static can short them out ... i have done it a couple times with some op amps and ICs myself ... this would have either driven the mosfets past electrical capacity or driven them past their thermal capacity and blew them out ... a way you can test to see if that is really what the problem was would be to get the oscilloscope and a schematic of the board and figure out what the waves are supposed to look like at the IC's input .... if that was a gain control and you replaced all the mosfets you should be able to see that when measuring the output/s of the IC there should be a stable linear change ... another problem could be what is driving the KIA494AP ... if that cracked it could also be a possibility that the input is what killed it ... if you found that the input on the KIA494AP was scewed your problem lies before the cracked IC ... to test that you really need to have an in depth understanding of what the output voltages and curve structures of whatever is driving the KIA494AP

new mtx squares i came across My link

if ur going to buy one of these subs im pretty sure that can be arranged by mtx with a cost of $10k for the old 22" jackhammer =)

Hey thanks for the reply Lucky. I found the settings you mentioned and there is a big bag of probes. I checked a few and most have 10x on them. Some with alligator clips extended from a wire off the probe, some not. I brought this home with me today so I have use of it as long as I need it. If I took better pics, would you have time to guide me through this process? I would make it worth your time, within reason. its pretty self explanitory ... hook up the 10x probe to the channel 1 ... probe goes on + and alligator clip goes on - output ... run a 50 hz tone for sub 1khz for speaker ... u will see a sine wave it may be too small to see adjust the top channel 1 knob ... if it goes off the screen do the same ... adjust the gains until u get a clip the turn it down a tad Okay, got that part, but I have a few more, sorry. How can I set the head unit? high level or from the rca? Hook to + - or L R and turn it up? What test tone? I have 4 plus sub out. OR do I just set the HU at 75% and go directly to the amps? Do I unhook my speakers? I would think not since my amps would need to see resistance to make the power at ohms I want. Do I hook to the speaker leads at the amp? Where do I ground the probe clip? Negative speaker wire? its pretty much the same thing for each ... be prepared for a wealth of knowledge ... before doing n e thing set all eqs to 0 or bass enhancement loudness anything ... everything needs to remain neutral ... turn ur high pass and low pass on on ur h/u ... if you are using high levels then connect probe to pos speaker wire and aligator to negative ... use a 1khz test tone and turn ur head unit until u experience clipping ... once clipping begins turn it down a little ... record and test the other 3 outputs as they can be different ... whichever is lowest is the highest you can turn your head unit to before clipping begins ... we have not tested the rca outputs yet but odds are they will not be as low of a clip as the high levels ... to test front and rear output rcas the probe will go inside the whole if using the female end or on the tip if using the male end .... the aligator clamp will connect to the outer shielding of the rca or i believe a ground will work as well if you cannot keep the aligator clamp on ... run a 1khz test tone to see if it clips before the lowest clip level of ur high levels ... if it is higher u r in the clear and if for some reason it clips at a lower volume then that is the highest volume you can tune your amps potentially ... remember to do both front and rear sets of rca outputs as they might be different ... next do your subwoofer output ... do the same as you did for the front and rear rcas but now use a 50hz test tone to see if it clips before the lowest clip level ... if it is higher u r fine and if for some reason it clips at a lower volume then that is the highest volume you can tune your amps to ... so whatever the lowest clip volume was is where you will be tuning ur amps to ... connect your rcas to the appropriate positions on your amps ... now turn ur gains all the way down on ur amps ... disconnect all speaker wires ... for ur sub amp connect the probe to the pos speaker terminal and the aligator clamp to the negative speaker terminal ... run a 50 hz tone and adjust the gains on ur amp at the volume you found you need to tune everything to ... do the same with your speaker amp but with a 1khz test tone ... remember that you need to make sure all ur outputs do not clip if u have multiple channels .... so test all ur channels and whichever clips at the lowest setting is where u need to set ur gains to i hope this helps and if u need more info let me know ik there is a lot of info here lol ... also if u are strictly running rcas then u do not have to tune ur high levels with the oscope ... u should disconnect ur speakers as ohm load does not make a difference when it comes to clipping ... if u had an output of 400 wattts at 4 ohm unclipped u would have 800 watts at 2 ohm unclipped

DANG, That girl on the left is Fine. I bet she's 24. that girl is a butterface if u look close ... its all about that sub tho ... cmon now

i sold my friend my old pioneer ts-w3002d4 subs and a hifonics bxi2006d amp ... i had 4 of these subs wired for 2 ohm in my car (didnt feel like waiting a month for the d2 ohms) and i had them facing up in a sealed box and the excursion was great on them even with roughly 1300 watts at 2 ohm ... we built a ported box tuned to 28hz facing the trunk and now the subs barely move at 1 ohm with 2000 watts powering them ... why is this? i checked the ohm load and it is indeed 1 ohm

1/2" birch would be delish and there would be no need for an air freshener in ur car

Think about it this way ... a subwoofer creates two areas of air mass, One from the front and another from the rear. With that being said a sealed captures the rear air mass and uses that the push the woofer as well as the singal showing more excursion. In a ported the air excapes allowing not a lot of movement. But in a ported u wont see the full excursion unless u are right near the port feq. that makes perfect sense thanks

by the way its the voltage division knob ... if u cant see the top of the wave at max setting use the position knob ... if u still cant see it u might need a 100x probe which is very unlikely