Lucky 76

shawn i meant the code for my check engine ... i asked advance auto and they couldnt even test my alt with it off the car ... too them a half hour and they gave up ... struggled to figure out how to mount it on the bench tester lmao ... i want to find out exactly what the code is that way i can look it up and check out what happened

thanks ... how many d3100s should i buy for my system ... i am not replacing the front battery ... i was also thinking about getting the c and d technologies 100lb batteries instead ... which would be a better choice ... i have heard good things about the c and d batteries and i can get them for about 220 a piece

ok so then the current draw could also have caused the check engine light to turn on ... it said the charging system was fine when this happened ... if the check engine light did come on is it possible that i damaged the alternator? ... is there n e where i can get the code red for free? ... i would like to know if that happens again exactly what the code reads ...

def. I have been doing more testing on that, I considered removing the glass altogether and replacing it with metal, but the guys from team renots think I should'nt since glass is so reflective. They challengeed me to reinforce it and keep the glass. Are there any rules in db drags directly pertaining to sunroof changes/mods? I am thinking that I might have to find 2 dif solutions for the 2 sunroofs if there are on the rear sunroof I have made some good strides. I put 2 layers of 2nd skin on it as if it were window tint, then put a layer of that egg crate foam used to make beds more comfortable and a layer of poly fiber. to make a ghetto seal for it I used duct tape (temporary but works good for now) around the edges and then put the headliner back, closed the sunshade thats built into the headliner and bam worked like a charm and cant see the ugly parts at all. Only problem is if there are rules in dif leagues against doing this kind of stuff then it can be seen from the outside. guess I should put like 2 layers of 2.5% black tint on it and would solve that problem. of course i dunno how useful the reflective qualities of glass are when they are hidden behind a barrier like that, but its cheaper and easier then a metal replacement. for the front sunroof I bought a rubber pipe thats like a cross between a hose and a pipe (not too hard not too soft) and cut it in half length wise then placed it next to the weather stripping (making it the same length as the stripping) & used some silicone sealant to secure it. I then stuffed the area between the sun shade and glass with poly fiber. That works good but as my SPL gets closer to yours I dunno if its going to do much, I'm getting my new all out spl enclosure done in 2 weeks max along with alot of other upgrades, more batteries, zero gauge finally, and a few others I'm blanking on so I'll let once my numbers get up there how that works out on the roof. I know I'd love to make that soft azz sun shade more sturdy like metal or at least like a volvo S-60's is, do you know the style I mean? I did put 2 layers of dynamat on the inside of it to sturdy it and it would'nt roll back in properly, or at all, maybe I should have tried just one. I am painting the car next spring so I think before I do that I might just say F it and ditch the glass and give myself an all metal roofed TC. Do you thinjk I could get away with making the roof extra thick metal to min. flexing and not have to compete in the freakin super mod classes? Maybe I should just turn my tc into like a frankenstien scion crx-tc. Fort. I'll have all winter to brush up on my welding lol let me know what you think shizzzon, these are just a few things I tried just screwing around really and a few thoughts on things to try in future. i know its a little disorganized but I had a couple brews today to relieve stress after moving Grams to hosp. again and I rarely drink so I dont know if anything I just typed even makes sense or if I explained what I did right. honestly i feel silly giving ideas to you about this cuz after reading a ton of posts from you I bow down to your knowledge when it comes to car audio. But I fig. maybe some of the crazy things i post might spark a real idea in you so faq it, I'll keep trying :-) im going to have to do something similar to my sunroof ... thanx 4 the info

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alright then this is understandable ... let me just make sure this is acceptable as welll ... i was driving today with the music turned 30/35 on a techno song so quick bass but not that hard ... the car normally will charge cold at 14.4v with no accessories on ... the voltage would stay at around 13.8 and then shoot up to maybe 14.8 and then go back down again shoot back up to around there and then all of the sudden my check engine light came on ... i reset the system and the light turned off ... what would cause this? i was coasting downhill as well

so for some reason when the music is playing pretty loud (over 75% max) and my rpms are in excess of 2000 rpm the check charging system light flickers on and off like i stated in my first post ... it only does this on some songs ... what could be the cause of this

ive used about 100 feet of it ... it is incredibly light and hollow

the model number is UPS12-475fr (replaced by the UPS12-490MR).... would you say they are better than the powermaster d3100?

the model number is UPS12-475fr .... would you say they are better than the powermaster d3100?

alright ill give that a shot thanks

i measured the voltage and the battery was readying 12.71 floating ... i did not charge the battery yet ... it seems to be good as far as that voltage goes ... is it possible that the battery can still be bad ... some weird things were happening today ... i was driving up the hill and the rpms were low and then it suddenly shifted up and then the battery light came on for a second ... also when i come to a stop the voltage will drop to what seems battery level (around 12.8) and then it will rise back up to charging level... the voltage has been all over the place ... this morning it was at 14.4 with no accessories ... then i turned it off and back on again a half hour later and it reads 14.1 ... turned it off and back on again another half hour its reading 13.8 ... this is all with no accessories on just running the car with nothing on ... i have not attempted to turn my music up yet

it could b the battery now that i am thinking about it ... it is not a deep cycle and has been in my car for over a year ... ill have to charge it over night and see the float voltage in the morning ... what should it b reading at float?

its an autocraft from advance auto parts

well thats reassuring ... how long can they take 2250 rms on music?

so i guess the sub was bad ... we took it out and now we have just one sub running ... now the other sub is doing it ... the amp is a hifonics bxi2006d ... it is running unclipped at 1900 watts at 1 ohm .... the subs are pioneer premier ts-w3002d4 ... is it possible that even tho these subs say they are rated for 1k rms that they only really handle less? ... i smelt the sub and it smells burnt even tho it is hitting like normal just with an annoying flap

my friend and i made a ported box with 2 separate chambers ... 1 chamber for each sub ... each has its own portl .... for some reason in one of the chambers a flapping noise is coming out of the port ... the other sub seems fine and no flap is coming out ... each sub is wired independently as well ... we took the sub out and vacuumed the chamber and the noise is still there ... what could this be? ... is it possible that there is something wrong with the sub causing it to flap? .... the noise fluctuates with the frequency ... ex lower frequency will create a harder slower flap

i do plan on just doing local comps and showing off ... my problem is it seems that whenever i build a box, upgrade my subs, upgrade my amps its never enough for me ... i love the way bass feels ... it brings my music to life with the 2 sets if re xxx 6.5s i have in the front ... idc if my stage is acoustically incorrect ... i probably wont go with another 4500 but just to be on the safe side i might as well get a sub that can take the power

these are the dimensions i have to work with ... this would be if i was to build the box inside the car which i am most likely going to have to do ... i am also willing to use birch instead of mdf so we do not need more layers of wood front baffle - 38 high x 47 wide back - 35.25 high x 38 wide i forgot what the middle piece was ... i will have to look again ... i have written down 20 x 47.5 which cant be right ... odds are it is 30 depths from top - 21 from middle - 30 from bottom - 36 this will probably only add up to around 21-22 cu ft i also have a 15 wide X 24 long X 12 high area if i took out the middle seat to the back of where the wall would go ... this could be where the port would come out i guess this is like 1.5 cu ft or so i would imagine thanks again shawn

i was told there was a video online of an explorer with 4 18s ... i wanted to view this because i drive an aviator which is basically lincoln's version ... i wanted to reference how he made the wall as i plan on building a wall hopefully in mine ... i dont think he did a straight wall because there isnt enough height to stack 2 straight up ... if anyone has any information please let me know thanks

i was thinking about the re mx myself ... i was just going to ask what you thought ... they are rated at 1500 rms ... ik re makes good products but can the mx take around 9k daily? also the sundowns r underrated and will prob put out more than that ... shizzon i got the dimensions and i will post them tonight ... its going to be tight and i might have to take out the middle seat for enough cu ft

i kinda want to leave the option to run a secon saz4500 if it permits ... if the dc level 4 xls are comp oriented does that mean they arent going to sound good with faster music?

what i mean by sound quality is i want it to hit the notes i throw at it (below 80 hz most likely 60 and under) and be able to keep up with the response of fast music like techno

is there a meter that costs like $150 instead of just stepping up to this. i dont need it to be that accurate i just want a round about number ... need something that can measure around 155 db (just to be safe lol)

the dc 4xl and nightshades dont sound as good as the xcons? what about some aa or sound splinter? ... would they be a better option ... i dont like the ia dustcaps lol ... i really do not know what to look for ... thats y im asking u guys ... u have more knowledge and exp than i do