Lucky 76

I'll measure the height difference to be exact. I'm pretty sure ill be able to get to it.

O that can be done. There is some notching. It is just not significant. I thought you wanted it to make the middle of the box larger. There is at least 2-4"s I would say. I would have to look at it again though. You are referring to where the headliner goes up higher in certain spots of the roof correct?

There is no more height. It is all the same. Everything is leveled off as well

Yes 32.5"s high. I tried taking the panels off of the pillars but there are stupid ac ducts in the way.

The plywood only adds another 1/4". Would this make a significant difference?

It is now 41.25 to the ceiling with just .25"s of play. We can still use the 58"s of width up to 14"s back but we did not take into account the pillars before today. The pillars make the box width shrink significantly. If you want, at the pillar, the botttom is a little bit wider than the top.

That is what we did. We just used .5" plywood. How thick would the metal sheet be if I were to use it and if I were how much more area are we talking?

The other 1.75"s is from the transmission bump. We had to make a frame so when we put the .5" piece over the transmission hump it was all leveled off and well supported. I want to get as much as possible but there is no way we can go left to right due to the transmission bump. How much will .5"s add to the port area?

We cant because of the transmission bump in the way. The way the dance floor is now there is a .5" sheet of plywood over the top to level it all off because the tranmission bump's height decreases going towards the hump

We'll just play it safe and stick with the original design. I guess just make it with the most possible port available. What if we just do a single layer of mdf instead of 2 for the port? Wouldnt that increase port area by a decent amount?

Why can we not just go back more to increase port area?

ok, i need some more measurements unless you already know- So, from front to back of this box, and from bottom to top- Baffle- I have 58" wide the first 35" up, then 50" wide from 35-41.25" high. ---------- 32.5 from the dance floor - 41.25"s That dimension will go back 14". -------- YES The last time you measured everything, you told me from the front of the box to the hump was 26" deep. So... is it 30" deep now since u moved it up 4"? -------- YES Also, once over the hump, u said it was 38" high... but u also subtracted 1" from the baffle height so is the hump still 38" high or is it 37" high? -------- 38"s Also, you recently said that all the way up at the baffle, u can get 50" wide ALL THE WAY TO THE HUMP... So this means that for at least the 26-30" deep, i can maintain 50" wide correct? ----- NO - Only the first 14s the we need to shrink it to 41.5"s because of the pillars =( ... We can extend the box back more if needed we just need approx 13-14s back there but more room would be nice. Also.. what is the width ONCE OVER THE HUMP? I thought the width shrank... if it does, what is it? And remember, u may not need those panels on either if you want to maintain 50" wide. ------ The most we can go is 41.5"s due to the pillars. The hump is 30"s back. There is an area before the hump measuring 16"s. The reason why it is not included in the 14"s is because it starts to shrink to the 41.5"s wide. What is the max length you plan to go after the hump?

Ahahahaha. Take your time. We cant really start building until next weekend anyway because my ring terminals won't be in until I am in college. I have to ground everything out before I put everything in lol.

No it is 14"s deep before it goes to 50"s. I had to scoot it up 4"s to make clearance.

That is looking DELISH!!!! Alright Shawn I just picked up some of the glues and sealants you mentioned. Well have to wait on everything else. Im pumped for this build. What are we going to use to protect the car's interior from getting ruined? Like some form of sticky sided plastic?

Alright nice. What do you suggest I pick up at Home Depot today?

The only numbers that have changed are these The width is fine for the most part. We have with the doors off. From end to end On the bottom - 58"s 16"s up - 60"s 24"s up - 62"s Notches at the window pillar at 26"s - 63"s At the window pillar at 35"s - 58"s At the top - 50"s All the numbers above you just have to subtract 2.25"s from because that is how high the dance floor is. Here are the numbers with the dance floor - We still have 58"s wide up to 32.25"s high and then it starts shrinking to the top to 50"s wide at 41.25"s high (It is a little bit higher than 41.25 but to be on the safe side just say that).

How big is this box going to be anyway?

Btw im loving the routered edge I just dont think its gonna happen due to the fact this port is going to be adjustable.

Oh damn! Plus mine arent going to say xcon on them they are just going to say ssa in the middle. They will match a lot better.

Very good book. Too expensive for me so I sat and read in the bookstore.lol. Arnold my or may not be a good gov but he knows how to work out properly and get the most gains possible from the least time in the gym. If you are looking for physique and not functional strentgh like in sports then this book is for you. For physique I will always take the advice of a 3 (or 4 I cant remember) time Mr. Olympia. And yes the gazillion speedo pics suck but kinda hard to show def in the legs in boardshorts!haha. Why not buy it online? It only costed me 14 new.

Can you make me a grocery list of supplies I need to get at Home Depot. Like as far as L Brackets go, liquid nails, silicone, etc? I already have boxes of screws and hopefully enough sheets of mdf

This looks SICKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK! If those are to scale I am pretty sure we can fit in the port! The dance floor will not interfere. The measurements I gave you all have to do with the dance floor theoretically in place accept for the widths i gave you. The widths will most likely be fine. You only have to subtract 1.25 inches i believe from the heights of the widths I posted. Josh remembers better than I do of how high up the dance floor will be because of the transmission hump. For the port, how are we going to tune it for daily and competition? Is it just going to be like a piece covering the front of the port with a gasket attached? Or does a piece have to slide into the port as well to decrease port area?

LMMFAO!!!!!!!!! So are you thinking the 18s are going to fit? We were just going to build the dance floor completely out of wood with supports going all along the sides. This is just to level it off. Will this be fine? We'll have to pick up some stuff later. Are we going to need threaded rods?

Lets not forget the fog machine and neons =(