Lucky 76

I noticed that the power and ground were opposite on the 125.2 and the 50.4 but they were indeed plugged in correctly. Even with the fuses popped shouldn't the amp turn on? Like shouldn't the blue or red light come on still? Could the speaker wires themselves be causing a short (near the speaker itself)?

I am going to try putting the amp in my friends car and see if the same result happens. If not we know there is something in the wiring going bad. If the fuse pops .... well .... them amp is bad straight from sundown. I have a funny feeling that won't be the case though ahahahaa.

So I bought some fuses today. I took the fuse out from the wire going to the amp and then inserted the fuses on the amp. I then put the fuse going to the amp back on. The fuses connected to the amp still blew. The red protect or blue on light has yet to go on at all. Any other suggestions?

fixed for reality I dont understand where you are coming from with this. We changed everything around and then tested the power handling. I dont know if you knew this or not. If you did could you please enlighten us on how to fix the speaker installation so they will be able to handle more power.

Really? I have never heard of that. I will have to try that in my own install.

In my personal opinion I think you should go with another brand such as sundown. Through my experience with the older rockford fosgate amplifiers (I owned a t40001bd and a t8004), they are very very power hungry. My 4kw amp had a fuse rating of 500A and only one battery and ground terminal! This shows the companies lack of engineering knowledge (0 gauge has a normal fuse rating of 300A to protect the wire). They are also very inefficient. Being a class BD amplifier the efficiency was only like 74% on the birth sheet. For a sub amplifier you will not notice the difference in quality from a class bd to a class d amplifier. You will however notice the lack of output when your voltage drops from the bd! Look into a class d amplifier for your subs. Never mind the marketing gimmick of a class "bd".

I forgot to mention that I just installed this amplifier.

We ended up figuring out why they werent loud. It was the whole loudness button thing. We tuned everything with the loudness on by accident (it is a kenwood preset for some reason). I used the oscilloscope and with the oscilloscope the head unit clipped at a volume of 27 (with loudness on). The preout voltage is like nothing at this volume. Once we took the loudness off and turned it up past 27 ( testing it by ear because I do not have an oscope right now) the speakers were much much much louder. We also found out that on the sundown amplifiers the order is not positive and negative like most amps but negative positive. This caused the lack of midbass and also the reason why the speaker sounded like absolute crap. The doors still need to be deadened. The main problem with these speakers are they cannot handle the power. It got to the point where the speaker started to smell like an electrical burn. Josh said he is going to try them out and see how he likes them and go from there.

That stuff is expensive as hell. Very interesting site though. I might have to pick up some of their stuff later down the road. I ended up buying a silver plated mylar film. Just going to glue it on to the mdf.

I wanted to paint my port chrome and layer it in plexi. What would provide me with the greatest reflectivity as far as spray paint goes? I looked into mirror finish film but it seems to be quite pricy. I wanted to spend around 50 dollars max for about 25 sq ft.

If you could fit 8 15s and have enough cu ft I say go for it! Have you measured your potential dimensions? Plus I say dont go with 4 18s because I am the only one that has 4 18" xcons

That was pretty rough to say dude... x2

well ..... a lot of both

If you can fit 8 15s do it up. I was only able to fit 6 in my car and thus was not worth doing over 4 18s. 8 15s will get you louder that 4 18s. Are your goals just spl? If they are, then you should look into fi or dc audio. SSA makes a hybrid of sound and output. You get a little of both. Did not re read your first post. Continue on ahahah.

Amusingly you deleted your recommendations after reading my post.... bahahahahha I got it though - recommendations = ppi and id

ya ik ahahaa that is nawyce.

ahahh thats really ur name?

What a crap set of speakers. Can't even play freaking 80hZ wtf. We will adjust the hp and see what it sounds like. I am doubting the premiers will be able to play up to 100 or so hz without getting muddy but we'll give it a go.

x2

The high pass is already set to 80hZ. The eq was set to flat when this was happening. We later set the gains higher as far as the upper end of the spectrum was concerned and turned the midbass down a little to tone down the "popping". Josh said that the sound cuts out every once in a while. I thought this might be the source of the problem but so far trouble shooting has not gotten us far.

good but

I can give some background information as well as I see josh on a normal basis. -Mids are mounted in the doors and tweeters are mounted in dash (stock spot) positioned upward I was thinking about this the other day. We mistakenabley tuned the amplifier with the loudness on (it was factory preset that way from kenwood). We used a dmm (didnt have the oscope handy) but we tuned it at a volume of 27/40 because that is where the loudness clipped at when we tested it with the oscope. Could this cause the speakers to not be as loud as expected due to preout voltage from the h/u? The output voltage from the amp still equated to around 100 watts rms @ 4 ohm.

The nice part about the 360.2 is it allows me to turn my gains up and down for my lows, mids, and highs from the front of the car through their gain knob. I would like to see how loud I can get these bad boys and then tone them down from the front.

I have a set of cd1e horns and need to tune this amplifier down. The horns are 40 watts each @ 8ohm. What should the output voltage look like from the amplifier? Does this sound right? E^2/R = W (W*R)^(1/2) (40*8)^(1/2) ~= 17.89 volts