Lucky 76

Your car can be ran without a battery as long as your alternator works. That is how back in the old days they used to check to see if your alternator was bad. They would disconnect the battery and if the car ran it was fine, if not then the alternator was bad.

Does it matter which side you switch? I would try every iteration. Not just the pair, but the independent drivers. (ie each tweeter and each mid and every possible combination) Will do. Thanks!

Hahahahahahah! Shops are hilarious. When I worked at Boomer McLoud (keep in mind this was my junior year of high school), the installers would try to tell me all this crap and everything they said was wrong. Just throw a couple caps in your car and that will fix your issue, put another set of tweeters in your car that will make them louder, if a speaker is rated at 100 rms you should not throw more than 50 rms at them ....... etc. I tried to tell them the right stuff and they kept telling me that I need to get off the internet and I was just a high school kid lmao. The best would be if I had a problem I would go down the street and ask this guy that was a judge in World Finals (sound quality comps idk which) and ask him what to do.

Hahahahahahah! Shops are hilarious. When I worked at Boomer McLoud (keep in mind this was my junior year of high school), the installers would try to tell me all this crap and everything they said was wrong. Just throw a couple caps in your car and that will fix your issue, put another set of tweeters in your car that will make them louder, if a speaker is rated at 100 rms you should not throw more than 50 rms at them ....... etc. I tried to tell them the right stuff and they kept telling me that I need to get off the internet and I was just a high school kid lmao.

If you wanted to set it exactly right you would have used an oscilloscope not a DMM. A DMM has no way of telling if the amp is clipping, it simply measures the output voltage you are producing (among other things). As far as not clipping at all you have no idea whether it is or not since minor clippage is not audible to the ear.

chop chop

Does it matter which side you switch?

The best ever was when some kid was talking smack about my friends setup without knowing what he had. My friend was like pop your trunk and let me see what you have. Sitting there is a single clarion 8 shallow mount in like a .2 cu foot sealed box. My friend proceeded to shit his pants

The amp does not have to be grounded to the chassis as long as the battery is sufficiently grounded to the chassis. Check all your grounds! The amp takes the battery's ground and uses it to ground itself so check that bad boy out. What are you using to ground your battery as far as gauge wire goes?

Never mind. I was looking at the picture completely wrong ahahha. They are 6"x10" pieces. So just cover the areas where vibration is present, around the speaker and at the center of the door and call it a day

This will not take care of the road noise however correct? It only takes into account speaker resonance?

So this stuff says there is no need to deaden the entire panel. You only have to deaden the areas where resonance occurs and that will take care of the entire door?

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing. I think he has a budget for the deadener as well. Something VERY similar, although superior. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld Interesting. I was looking at these myself. I did not believe that they worked that well. So how would we deaden near the speaker?

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing. I think he has a budget for the deadener as well.

x2934728403!

They get those alarms for much cheaper than that. Remote starter/alarms have one of the biggest margins when it comes to profit. At boomers we used to charge $199 for a cheap remote starter and we only payed $30 for the unit. My AST 2 way costed me $289 and was an $849 piece or something rediculous like that lol. Still that is insane that he put something on the line like that. I am so surprised he even admitted to it being louder than those pos audiobahns lol.

The fuse might not be the issue. By taking the fuse out you are just "resetting the memory". Check the connections, switch the fuse just to be safe, and if that does not work look into checking your grounds.

Get that fatmat garbage out of here. That is going to just peel off and melt off in the summer ahahha. http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=60 That will be enough to do all 4 doors, the rear hatch and then some.

The inline fuse was not in place. No live has ever touched the heat sink.

I guess I could use one of those or just use the 50.4 I already have installed in the car. Great thinking. My mind is in the gutter ahahaha

Ya i am going to ask my friend to bring his over and see what happens.

I also checked the inline fuse and it is not popped. When I took out the inline fuse the fuses in the amp did not pop (sounds obvious but there could be a short coming from some other power source that is why I am stating this).

Will do. I might try this in a couple minutes actually. I have a distrobution block set up right now (no battery in the back). I am assuming that I can just measure the ohms from there.

I haven't popped off the back cover because that voids the warranty. I am thinking that it is a short somewhere down the line. I just have not found it yet. Just trying to figure out if there is something else that might cause the fuses to pop.